I've been posting the last couple of days about the troubles I'm having getting my car running after installing all of my new TPI stuff(Accel base, SLP runners, CAI,injectors,Airfoil, and TB bypass). Anyway, car would start but shut down if I didn't give it throttle. I noticed a slight backfire at higher rpms. I got it to run by itself by chocking the throttle so I could listen for vacuum leaks. Everything sounded OK. So I decided to mess with the timing. I turned the distributor clockwise(I don't know advance/retard or what) just a little bit, maybe 4-5 degrees. I tried to start it again and it would barely turn over, sounding like the starter hanging up. I noticed the same thing only slightly when first trying it. It finally did start after cranking for a while. It sounded really bad, sputtering and missing like crazy. Finally shutting off with a big shake and shudder. I think I now know what the problem is ,the timing. I don't have a timing light, wouldn't help anyway if it won't run. I guess I should try turning the distributor the other way a little bit past the old spot. What does anybody think? Could and will this cause all of my headaches? I deserve a big for this. Any opinions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

check for vaccum leaks? looks like you did... check your EGR valve... this sounds exactly like my brothers truck.. checked for leaks... cleaned teh IAC... it wouldnt idle, and when it did, it was ruff and then it would shutter and turn off... i had the EGR cleaned out and it fixed it... there is still some IAC problems.. but it at least runs now...

 

Oh yeah, EGR, EGR solenoid and the sensor that screws into the EGR all brand new.

 

Turn your distributor back to ~ where it was to see if it will start. Are you sure the distributor is installed correctly? It can be off by one tooth & still run. Are you sure the plug wires are in the correct firing order, & are they all in good shape? Did you drop or damage the MAF, & is the connector plugged in correctly? They are easy to damage. Did you try running the car with the MAF disconnected? If not try that. Maybe a buddy has a TPI car & will let you try his MAF on your car. Is your TPS connected & set properly, along with minimum air? Did you spray carb cleaner on the plastic parts of the IAC? That can ruin one. Did you check for engine codes? That may point to a problem. You only listened for vacuum leaks? How could you hear one over the air rushing thru the TB? I don't think I could. If you get it running spray carb cleaner around the base & runners, if the engine changes RPM's you have a vacuum leak. Don't automatically assume the new EGR, etc., are all functioning correctly, plenty of people will tell you they've bought new parts that were bad. Did you buy an Autozone EGR that requires you to put the sealing plate on the plunger, and if so did you install the correct plate correctly? I'm asking this because we put one of the POS on my friend's 89 vette, I'm assuming this is the same one for a f-body. I tried to talk him out of it... Is there anything else you changed or did to it that you haven't mentioned? Did the car exhibit any of these conditions before you worked on it? Did it sit for any length of time? Do you have good fuel pressure? AFTER trying the things I suggested, if nothing helps, you find no engine codes, you double-check ALL your connectors to ensure they're connected, you check ALL your vacuum lines including the little hard lines, you ensure that no wires may have been pinched, broken or left disconnected, you may want to yank the plenum off and put the old EGR back on to see if that makes a difference. You don't have to loosen the runners to do this, just be careful and you can probably reuse the gaskets.

HTH,
Shawn

 

Well, here's what I tried. I went with the distributor being a tooth off. Pulled #1 plug. BTW what a PITA with the TES headers. I had to make a plug socket like SLP sells(did get it out though). Cranked engine til I felt compression start to build. Then did it by hand with wrench on crank pulley. Saw the timing mark and put it to zero. OK, should be at TDC. Pulled cap off and holy crap. Instead of pointing at one it's pointing at four. I guess I didn't have the distributor in right like I thought. Messed around a little trying to get it in then realized I'll have to turn oil pump. I'll try that tomorrow. At least I know what the major malfunction is now(I hope). Thanks for the reply Shawn.

 

When you say pointing at four do you mean the rotor is pointing to the number 4 plug wire on the cap or the number 4 cylinder of the engine? I don't mean to insult you by asking this, I'm not aware of how much you know about cars so I'm asking what may be obvious. If you meant it's pointing at the number 4 wire on the cap then yes, you have found your problem - or one of them! Just get the distributor back in and put the number 1 plug wire in whichever connector of the cap that the rotor is touching with number 1 at TDC (firing), then rewire the motor from there following the firing order sequence. Don't worry about dickin around with the oil pump rod & trying to align it to a particular angle, the direction the rotor is pointing is not important - just the connector of the cap it's touching, that's your starting point. You should also check the contacts on the cap & rotor to make sure they're not burnt from misfiring.

 

Yes, I meant #4 plug wire. I got the distributor back in before work this morning. Now I'll go out and put everything back on and see what happens. I'll let you know how I make out.