i am so very confused
i am so very confused
alright, some way or another a new fuel pressure regulator needs to get put on my car. I bought a crane afpr but now ive heard that that isnt the actual fpr, but just makes the stock one adjustable. the one on my car now is shot so it needs a new one. about how much is it for a mechanic to install it? or how hard is it to do it myself when i havent really ever done anything like this before? thanks in advance
TPI AFPRs are basically just a new FPR cap with a screw in the top of it that allows you to preload the spring pressure on the diaphragm. This adjusts the FP.
Since a good chunk of the intake manifold assembly has to come apart in order to install it, you could pay anywhere from $60 to $120 in labor (shouldn't have to pay much more), plus parts (new gaskets will be needed, any screws or bolts that break, etc.)
It's not hard to do yourself, but if you've never done this type of work before, then you should at the very least have a book or a knowledgable friend along for the ride. Although most books and instructions say never to disassemble the FPR, it's a very simple device and any goofball can figure out how to (re)assemble it.
The part that could possible get you if you attempt it is the actual disassembly of the intake just to get to the FPR.
Since a good chunk of the intake manifold assembly has to come apart in order to install it, you could pay anywhere from $60 to $120 in labor (shouldn't have to pay much more), plus parts (new gaskets will be needed, any screws or bolts that break, etc.)
It's not hard to do yourself, but if you've never done this type of work before, then you should at the very least have a book or a knowledgable friend along for the ride. Although most books and instructions say never to disassemble the FPR, it's a very simple device and any goofball can figure out how to (re)assemble it.
The part that could possible get you if you attempt it is the actual disassembly of the intake just to get to the FPR.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
A said, some brands of AFPR are just replacements for tha cap, but they don't come with the actual PR mechanism. The only one i am sure comes with a cap and internals is the holley piece.
Other than that, installing it is gravy. All you need to do is pull the plenum. 6 bolts. And another 6 or so on the FP cap too.
I have no idea why you would even consider paying someone to do such a small job.
Other than that, installing it is gravy. All you need to do is pull the plenum. 6 bolts. And another 6 or so on the FP cap too.
I have no idea why you would even consider paying someone to do such a small job.
well when i read the directions to it, it seemed kinda difficult to do it but im not even sure if this is the problem anymore, my car will turn over like crazy but no fuel is getting to it, the shrader valve and fpr are bone dry (was leaking before) and its sitting out in a barn type building so its not and ideal place to work in when i dont even know what the problem is but i will go out there soon and try and figure it out, it may be the fuel pump, clogged fuel line or something but there isnt any fuel getting to the motor.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
FPR would be the last thing i would check if i wasn't getting fuel at the rail. The FPR is actually a valve into the return line. If your fuel pump was pushing fuel, you'd get it at the schrader valve.
1. Turn the key to on and listen for the fuel pump to prime (should hear a whir/buzz from the tank for a few seconds).
2. Check the fuel pump relay. IIRC it's the only 5 wire relay on the firewall. Jumper across the main lines and see if you can hear the pump engage.
3. If that didn't work. Uhhh, wait a second. Check the fuel pump/ECM fuse. It shoudl be pretty much right next to the battery in a little case that almost looks like a relay, except you'll just see 2 heavy orange (or red, i forget) wires going into it. BTW This probably should be step 1
4. Verify contiuity of the fuel pump wire from the fuse to the relay, and the relay to the pump.
5. All else fails, i reckon you have a bad pump.
1. Turn the key to on and listen for the fuel pump to prime (should hear a whir/buzz from the tank for a few seconds).
2. Check the fuel pump relay. IIRC it's the only 5 wire relay on the firewall. Jumper across the main lines and see if you can hear the pump engage.
3. If that didn't work. Uhhh, wait a second. Check the fuel pump/ECM fuse. It shoudl be pretty much right next to the battery in a little case that almost looks like a relay, except you'll just see 2 heavy orange (or red, i forget) wires going into it. BTW This probably should be step 1

4. Verify contiuity of the fuel pump wire from the fuse to the relay, and the relay to the pump.
5. All else fails, i reckon you have a bad pump.
oh alright, i thought maybe it had to do with the fpr due to prior difficulties with it, thanks a lot that sounds like some real good info i will go out there tomorow or thursday and check it out. thanks again, i will let you know what comes of it
not that hard to get to the fpr.....take the plenum bolts off the runners...i believe they are T-40 or T-45 torx heads....make sure u use the right size b/c if you strip one they are a pain...trust me.....once you remove the plenum you can pretty much access the fpr.....you can go ahead and remove the runners if you want to ut they are really a pain....get yourself some PB Blaster....crank those loose with a 1/2 inch drive trust me youll need it.....after the runners are off theres 4 blots that hold the fuel rail on.....thats pretty much it.....i can get you the torque specs for the plenum and runners if you want.....
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