I pulled two press in studs in my 416 heads (.510 lift springs, .480 lift, 2.02/1.60 valves) Tapped those two for screw ins and ran em to get me back on the road.

Bought all the studs knowing that more would pull. Sure enough 1 pulled on the passenger side(the hard side) so I decide to do the whole side at once. Got 5 done and trying to pull the 6th out and it just wouldn't come out.

Next thing I know, SNAP, broke the stud boss off. For those of you who don't know what that is:


Look where the light is, and the stud next to it. See a problem? YEAH F-ED THE HEAD UP. There is only 1/4" of material there. Called places said it MIGHT be fixable, but they'd have to see it. Not to mention there are still 8 more studs that have to be pulled and if they are fubared and look like this at the bottom:



I know it's hard to tell, but it's all goobered at the bottom, and held it into the head. That's why the boss broke, it forced the boss apart.

If there are more like that then I have MORE problems, these heads aren't ported and son of a-

Left over pieces:


So on a budget of no money, what should I do? try and have these things fixed and ported.... (not too happy with them unported)... and maybe have some random crap happen again? I mean even the tapping wasn't going well with these heads, was hard to tap, and some of them the stud screwed down farther than others, so you can't look at the left over stud to see if one of your rockers backed off in lash....


I am thinking new heads. Cast Iron of course.

I am thinking of World Products S/R torquer, Pro Topline Pro Lightening, or Dart Iron Eagle....

Most of which I can get complete for around $800 to my door.

Which one should I get? and what Intake Runner Size?

Mostly thinking 200CC ProTopLines, as I plan a base/runner change sometime in the near future as well... or should I just "ghetto" rig it and hope someone can weld a new stud boss or whatever. It's ALOT of work to pull the heads, and I don't want them going BACK on in the same performance they were. I wanna go faster than 14.08.

With what IS done with these heads, 202/160 valves, .510 lift springs, 7 screw in studs LOL, I should be able to get atleast $100 out of em on say eBay or something?

Ideas?

 

I had the same thing happen with my l98 heads.. after 40 hours of porting and maching the last bolt i screwed into the stud boss split the side a bit, not as bad as what you have there... Theres not much you can do with that, its pretty much ruined... I could have got mine welded but just bought a set of pro action 180cc heads from competition products.. Got here in three days.. I figured the last thing i need is that stud breaking at like 150 mph... they also have great out of the box numbers

.100 .200 .300 . 400 .500 .600 .700
73.88 150.89 206.86 242.68 257.90 263.27 270.12

AFR 180s flow

.200 = 129
.300 = 195
.400 = 240
.500 = 255
.600 = 260

 

grrr, why do you have to post stuff like pulling studs with only 0.480" when i'm, planning on doing the same soon. I never have any luck, now i'm jinxed.

 

Hey I read and read and everyone said I'd be fine. My friend B has the same cam (only on a 110lsa) with press in studs and edelbrock performance springs and has like 50+k mi on it.....

Machine shop friend of mine said it's usually more the springs that do the most damage. Not sure if that's true true but that's what he said.

So do I go with the Pro Lightening heads 200cc, or 180cc?

 

What are they going on? A 305 or 350? If it's a 350, i'd just go straight to the bigger heads. If it's a 305, i'd scrounge for the cheapest set of something i could bolt on and wait for the real engine down the line.

 

I've found two items that contribute to the stud pullout problem. First, are rocker arms that the slot is a tad short (like stockers). The rocker binds between the slot and stud and lifts the stud out. This can also cause the push rods to bend.

The second is heavy duty valve springs. They just over power the stud press fit and lift them out.

RBob.

 

Can also pin the studs. I usually do this is stock heads that are only going to see .465 lift or so (mild street buildups).

RBob.

 

Yeah but pinning the stds with the heads on the motor doesn't seem like the greatest idea either. Won't metal shavings / powder get everywhere?

 

I have long slot rockers, to avoid the rocker binding on the stud, and they are going on my rebuilt 350, w/ cam.

I am going to get a set of Pro topline Pro Lightning 200cc heads.

Gonna try and sell the 416s though. They flowed a bit better over stock with 2.02/1.60 valves! And the parts only have like 4k mi on them!

 

It can be done, just need to plug up openings with paper towels. Then vacuum off the heads when done. I can't really see it being much different then tapping the bosses while the heads are on the engine.

RBob.