Ok I have lived with this problem for over a year now and it is really bugging me now. if I drive the car for a 20 min + when I shut it off it will not restart. It pops and sputters and then nothing just keeps cranking. I know I have fuel pressure because I have a fuel pressure guage on my piller and it reads 46 psi. The only way I can get it to restart is if I shut off the nitrous bottel and turn the system on and floor it so I get just fuel squirted into the intake and then it fires right up no problem. The car is a 87 GTA 350 tpi with a lt1 intake on it, with the chip programmed to 89 specs. Any ideas?? Could this also berelated to when it is also hot and it is idleing in park and I put it in gear the car 75% of the time stalls. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

 

ANYBODY??????????????????

 

Heat soak?

Ignition coil, module or pickup coil replaced lately?

 

.

 

I replaced the distributer this time last year, about 8000 miles or so and it came with a new mod. I am thinking that because it does not get fuel through the injectors, now as of yet I have not been able to get it to do it when I am ready for it. Only when I am out on sat night without any tools. I am going to try to see if I have any signal going to the fuel injectors. I was also told about vapor lock, if it is this how do I stop that???

 

I had a problem similuar to yours & it ended up being the computer. Good luck finding out the problem.

 

Did this problem happen after the LT1 intake?

I'm willing to bet your getting plenty of fuel. When you floor the throttle your in turn opening the blades letting more air in(and when the ecm sees the throttle floored it doesn't put out much if any crank fuel)

Which while your floored and cranking your burning that excess fuel thats flooding your motor out, then the motor starts.

I have a feeling the only way your going to get this resolved is to tune the the Crank Pulse Width Vs. Coolant temp table in the PROM itself.

Being that everything ignition/fuel related is new and working I'm sure this is the problem.

I had similar issues when I was running a superram.

 

I've been having that problem ever since I swapped from my stock BIN to the modded APYP BIN I'm running now.

Once the car is warm she won't restart.
I have to let her cool down 10-15 minutes before she'll fire up.
I'm thinking I need to pull some of the Crank Fuel out.
I'll try that if I ever get my car up here . . .

 

Yes this started after I modded the engine and lt1 intake. The thing is I can crank all day long and it wont fire. But as soon as I get extra fuel in the engine via the fuel solnoide (sorry I cant spell) it fires right up. I am thinking that I am not getting any fuel because of that. I will recheck my bin file and see if there is a problem.

 

I had the problem and it was 100% the ignition coil (crappy accell supercoil that is).
Replace with new gm unit and never looked back

 

You know I do have a accel super coil, HMMMMMMMM

 

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the identical situation and have not yet resolved it.

Please let me/us know.

 

Check the coil. lol

 

I don't have an extra laying around and don't want to pay $60 for the thrid time on a MSD coil. The one that is in there is a year old.

I wanted to know if that worked for AaronIROCZ before spending the extra bucks.

 

I have an extra good GM coil. Problem is I'm up here in Toronto Canada..

 

Have a buddy heading over in his 90 TA and will try his. Problem is, if I install my hypertech chip, the problem doesn't occur. The proms I burn worked perfect two weeks ago without a problem. Now they work fine until the car warms up. I've cranked up the Crank Fuel PW and that has not helped the problem.

 

Well, my fuel pump took a crap on me this last weekend.
So that may have been my hot start problem.
We won't find out until I replace the pump and continue PROM tuning.

 

Good Luck! Let me know what happens. I've had a feeling my fuel pump has been below par but haven't had definitive proof.

 

Sorry for the lack of replys, my computer took a crap and I had to get a new one. no I have not fixed the problem, when it is hot and it does not start it has around 47 psi of fuel pressure, is that good??? I have also noticed that it is taking a while to start when cold. and it sputters till I give it gas and then it takes off like normal. I then rev it up and it pops through the exhaust (I think) and stumbles till I give it full throttle. Any other ideas???

 

Just tried the new coil - didn't help. Ran the scanner on it and am going through the data. Wierd thing is; I don't really have to let it cool down to start it, just wait a bit and try again and it will start. Not real quick but it will start. Mine is popping through the exhaust every so often as well. None of these things were happening a couple weeks ago.

Do you have a scanner? Would love to compare data. I will figure this out and let you know what it is. Let me know if you come up with anything in the mean time. Should have more information tomorrow.

BTW, I am running several different Bins (using a 4mb chip with 16 different programs and a remote) problem occurs in all of them. I have also increased the cranking pw and have not had any better luck.

C YA

 

Here is a little information that might keep us heading in the right direction. Today I took it for a ride and then came home turned it off and tried starting it. Same as always cranking and no start. Checked spark - no problem there. Pulled the prom out and tried starting the car (limp home mode) fired up better then usual. Put the prom in and started the car (little slow but started), ran it for a few minutes, cut it off and when through the same process as above (didn't restart - removed prom and it started) and the same thing happened again.

If you can, try this with your car and let's see if we have the identical problems going on. I am about to crank up my crank fuel pw vs. coolant temperature and see if it helps.

Will update you again later.

 

The Latest:

I have a 4mb prom with the ability to change through 16 different bins via the remote. When the problem starts and the car won't start, I connect my scanner and set it to injector pulse width. Reads 0.0 while cranking, then I stop cranking and start going through the other 16 bins, two of them will immediately fire the injectors with 6.??ms pulse width. As soon as I see that, the car starts. It does not seem to be directly related to the engine temperature because all this takes place with in a minute or two after the problem starts and the engine hasn't had time to cool, if anything it's hotter since the engine is sitting with no fan running.

One more thing, the "working" bins can sometime flake out and the car won't start but they will typically show some pulse width in a few seconds and much faster then all others. HMMMM - Sensor problem???

I am about to open the bins and compare the working ones with the non-working ones.

 

OK, it has something to do with the Air Purge Relay. When the car finally starts again, I hear it click.

 

HMMMMM that is an idea I will try that and get some scanner readings when I get back home tonight to get it.

 

Well, I've tried several different things with the BINS and have not resolved it. It just doesn't seem to be realated to the cranking PW.

The baffling thing is, I'll be cranking it over with no fire at all. Then all of a sudden, when I'm just clicking through the different BINS the scanner will show injector pluse width and I'll hear the CCP click. Then she starts!

I know I'm beating a dead horse, but it's the only common thread I've got right now.

 

Any luck yet jo88gta

 

I have made few corrections to the BIN files. Still messing in the crank pulse areas and the spark advance vs. temp areas. When it's hot and cranking it appears to crank slower then cold. I am checking to make sure it's not advancing to that point. It's all being documented.

I have not tested the car since the new proms burns personally. My son has tested it and says it is starting better. I'm not sure he's turning it off and then immediately trying to restart, so I will test that tomorrow.

I will report back on whatever I find.

Have you done any further research? If you would like to send me your BIN file, I will compare it to ours and see if there is any link between the two cars and there starting problems.

Send to: jo88gta@aol.com

 

So far it happened sunday night, I started it to move it onto the street and came back 5 min later and it wouldn't start, and I didn't have the scan tool. I am now going to keep it in the car at all times.

 

Ok I t happened to me today and I was able to remove the mem cal to see if it will start in limp home mode. It did not start. Do all cars start with the emcal removed????