yup, the 'ole 10 sec 100,000 miler passed away yesterday night. #3 cylinder was burning a little oil for a couple weeks. Oil on the plug, blue smoke in the exhaust. I was 99% sure it was not the valve guide seals b/c there brand new Vortecs....about 1K miles on them (if that).

Anyway, i was doin a little testing on the bottle in anticipation of running it at the track this Friday night.....got about 2 seconds of spray and the bottle was dead....I heated the heck out of it for pressure....it was mostly air I'm sure. Anyway, cruising along 5 minutes later, i roll into it in 2 gear and clank, cluck BOOM, bang POW /insert gay Batman antic here/ it was ugly LOL. I first thought maybee/hopingly it was a busted rocker arm that was getting tossed around. Pulled the covers 2 night and they all look good....pulled plugs, they all looked OK.

Anyway, i am gonna stick with the LTR set up(too much in it to ditch it)....question is...should I run it as a 355 or 383???? I have ported Vortec heads, ported SDPC base, ported SLP runners and Plenum....i dont wanna run slower if I go to the 383..i dont think the LTR can hang with those cubes?????????

Ohh, also, I am keeping the cam in sig....it stays...I have a good 2600 converter also....im really leaning towards the 355 here...

 

i would give cc a call, and let them know the details, get there suggestions, and then call scroggins, and find out there recomendations, good luck,and keep us posted on the outcome, and results

 

cc being comp cams, i think from sounds of it

 

rebuild as a 383, youll gain about 35hp and about 40 ft lbs of tq more that a similar 355, youll also have the tq peak move about 500rpm lower in the rpm range, those two differances will tend to make the car slightly faster,BTW if your going to use giggle gas the 5.7" rods and FORGED pistons with thier longer ring pack distance might be a valid choice rather than the 6" rods shorter pistons with the lower ring in the piston pin hole. just get the compression ratio correct! (about 9.5:1) and just keep in mind a 383 is about 8% larger than a 355 so youll be runing exactly the same air speeds thru the intake at about 500rpm lower in the rpm range, its not at all unusuall for a car that increases displacement from 355-383 to see one to two tenths improvement in 1/4 mile et.

 

wow, that car went 10s? Could you give me details as in which tires, fuel pump, 60 ft, mph, etc? Thanks

 

not with those mods.....

 

Yeah when I read this earlier I was thinking the same thing. No bloody way that car was doing 10's unless he has left out some very important mods. Or hes shooting 300hp shot of NOS at her.?? Please elaberate as to your setup, cause there is no way with those mods your doing 10's in the 1/4. If so my girl should hit 10's too!

 

Not hard to believe mid 12s out of that combo NA. Throw on a 150 shot and say hello to 10.9

 

True I guess, so maybe I should expect 11's from mine. Port matched and some bowl work???

 

I vote for the 383. While I think 35hp and 40tq more is a little optimistic if you keep the same cam, I do think that you'll see around a +20 gain in hp and tq. Check out ebay for rods and pistons. I found a set of Eagle H-beams for $300 and a set of Wisecos (017H3's) for $320 shipped. These parts retail for around $1K from Summit. You can find a good Scat nine-thousand series crank for a 1-pc rm seal for under $200 too, which isn't bad.

 

Well, if it is full weight I would say 12.5 max NA. on a 150 shot 10.99 would be pushing it.

 

LOL@the BS'ers

anyway, my 60' times were in the high 1.5's fastest being a 1.57 and slowest a 1.59. This was done on a STOCK converter and STOCK trans with an SLP shift kit. Tire= 26 X 9.5 Hoosier slicks. Spray right off the launch with a 150 shot and there you have it...very simple set-up. I wanted to go back and see what she'd do with the recent addition of a Pro Built trans and the 2600 converter. Ohh and also the car has been tuned and checked by myself (damn good tuner) along with the help of some day job tuners. (meaning: they do it for a living)

Ya know, u guys should do a little research on my car and my posts. If you were to do so, you could see that calling BS is not a wise thing to do. On motor alone the car ran in the 12.40's a few times, when it wasn't 1000% humidity here in Florida. However, most of the time she ran in the high 12.50's and mid 12.60's as it sat. Again that was always on the stock trans, etc.

As far as MPH....this thing doesnt mph all that well, not that it matters in drag racing. But, it made very decent HP and awesoem TQ

*edit* I am running a Syclone Fuel pump BTW. I bought the car with this in it and my FP was set at 46 psi on stock injectors (which i now have 24#'s) By Syclone, i mean the GM vehicle.

 

back on the subject again....

i was strongly recommended to run an ALL forged motor this time around...even the crank:/

I know it will be way stronger but is it really necessary. Some people say it is absolutely and some, not so much. I personally think all forged will be overkill, but I want your opinions.

Im looking at the "Hardcore Racing Products" section in Summit and World has a kit out. 4130 crank, 4340 rods, JE pistons Speed pro rings and Clevite Bearings all for about $1800 Or i can run a cast crank, forged pistons and rods for like A LOT cheaper LOL. Plus, i already have a cast Summit 383 crank brand new in my garage :/

?????????

 

You might get away with the cast crank. But i would do forged from the rest on up. Also give sdpc a call and see how the vortecs flow on a stroker. I know its all been ported but a 383 moves a lot more air. You could step up to the fast burn heads. And beef up the frame, I didnt see any chassis mods in your sig and the tq a 383 makes could cause a drop in your 60' from wheel spin/chassis flex. Did you do anything to the 10 bolt? Cause if thats stock, kiss it goodbuy especially if your gonna use spray.

 

yeah, car used to have bolt in SFC's but those are sold and I am looking into the Spohn's.....they will definetly need to be on the car.

Also, i have ARI fabricated adj. lower control arms and brackets. Adj. torque arm and panhard rod. Man, this thing was dialed perfect before the heads/cam /manifold.

On a totally stock bottom end, only mods being SLP runners and 1 3/4 SLP's, the chassis mods and a tire,the car ran 11.70's with a 130 shot!!!

I miss the look on peoples faces when this stocker just put up 110+ mph traps

Ohh, almost forgot: I picked up a sweet kit for the new motor. 4340 ESP crank, 4340 H-beam ESP rods, JE/SRP forged pistons, JE ring set, Clevite 77H bearing set and all the odds and ends pretty much, rod bolts/cap screws, wrist pins, etc all for $1485!!!!shipping is like 58 bux from Arizona to Florida!!! Im pretty damn happy with all that!!! Motor should be able to see a 150 shot w/ no problem for a looooong time!! Ohh, this is a balanced kit as well.......

 

I wasn't saying I believe that you could do it, or even that it was out of the ordinary, just going from 12.5 to 10.99 ususally takes more than a 150 shot. I didn't see where you said your time and mph on the juice? Was it a wet plate kit? N20 jetting?

 

If you going to spray it, get the forged internals. The Scat 9000 is good to about 400 hp, any more & it will wooble badly & tear itself up. Go with the 4340 forged Scat crank, that's what I did & I ain't usin' spray. Forged piston won't hurt either, hypereutectics won't take much more than a 150 shot without the tops eroding.

 

10.917@122.57mph str8 off the timeslips. LOL, there are people in my car club LYING and saying that I was spraying a 250 shot all this time.....whatta bunch of sorry excuses for enthusiasts if u ask me :/ The jets are something like 71N/53F IF I RECALL CORRECTLY*....its been a while since I pulled them or played with them. I know it gave me close to 125 RWHP on the dyno. I think almost 150 RWTQ too!!!

like it....love it.....yup, me too.

Anyway, yeah I got the 4340 forged stuff but am still upset about the whole thing.....I wanted 10.70's out of her before the tear down I know w/ the converter it had a chance

 

What track do you run at?

 

I run at MMP in WPB ....most of the time. Occasionaly i do the west coast deal and run over to Bradenton with some friends for a track rental and stuff like that...

MMP=Moroso Motorsports Park
WPB= West Palm Beach

LOL

MMP blows...PASS IT ON

 

LOL, I know what you mean about Moroso, but it is better than it was. Its my home town track also. I like Bradenton, except for the return road. Hopefully they have paved it by now!

 

Yep gonna have to do it on the 10 second run with those mods

 

*Knows this guy IRL*

Lucy, you have some splainin to do......

 

I thought you weren't supposed to inject nitrous until 2500 to 3000 RPMs? You weren't getting the RPMs that high on the stock torque converter were you? Nothing bad ever happened from sending a 150 shot into the motor at 1800 RPMs?

 

Well, the engine is dead.....

 

Chevyboy

I had originally built my 383 for nitrous back in the day and sprayed a little into it while it was carbed. Its all forged, Cola 4340 stroker crank, 6" Eagle Hbeam rods, and (at the time) SRP flat tops 11:1. It ran great on and off the gas, I think it liked the NOS better though

Now I am using the same crank and rods with SRP dished pistons to turn it into a blower motor. Good luck to you on your rebuild. Maybe I'll see you at the track in a few months. I am shooting for tens with the blower!!

 

Wow, 10's on the stock bottom end and a 150 shot, I'm impressed. I believe you when you say it too, with those parts it's not easy, but attainable with good tuning and such.