I would think the MAF system is a better set-up as opposed to the "pre-programming" of SD. I understand GM switched to the SD format in the early '90's for "better performance".

Anyone have an opinion on which is more reliable / efficient??

 

Do a search on MAF vs Speed density..or MAF vs SD. etc, etc...

Sit back, grab a 12-pack of your favorite beverage, and enjoy the novel

 

LOLOL..oh shyt! I guess a little more complex than I thought. Well, it might be hard reading past the 8th or 9th bottle!:lala:

Sorry guys here's a good thread revisited for a quick reference:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=speed+density

 

I have an opinion, but no-one here seems to like it.

At the end of the day, they both have their advantages, and both can be tuned to work effectively for any given setup.

My personal preference is based on street/track experience, dealing with both systems and reading. [as he puts on his flack jacket]

Its sorta the twisted version of the chicken or the egg. Do a search on my user name you will have more reading than you imagine. lol.

 

Ya, could get a bit blurry.

In essence, what you'll find is you can pretty much run what you currently have.

For cost consideration, if you're looking to convert to FI, then SD would be cheaper since you won't have to buy a MAF.

As far as switching to SD from MAF, if you have more time than money, it may make sense instead of buying a new MAF sensor.

The only other advantage to SD over MAF for the vast majority of us, is it's easier to modify the intake tract for cold air induction.

Anyway, read up on it, read opinions, then read dyno numbers in comparisons and draw your own conclusions...usually the best way to view things.

 

Ski's a bit biased though...he knows that if he plled the MAF, he'd be 10.99 or better

 

LMFAO....They said it I didn't!

 

Ski, any plans on using forced air?

 

IMO the SD wins hands down on the reliable / efficient question,
however there are other issues involved so as always it comes down to your specific combination and how you prefer to do it.

 

Going all natural my friend all the way to the nines if all works out as planned.

I'm testing a converted single plane in the next few weeks that I am confident that I will be consistantly in the 10s, as long as I don't loose my 60' time that I have down to 1.4s now.

If that pans out, depending where I land in the 10s, then I will go to stage two, which is going to be a considerable amound of cash, but will easilty runs in the 9s on all motor.

I would venture to guess if the intake works out as planned, I could be running in the mid to high 9s next year with little or no problem.

WIth a power adder, I could get really insane at low 9s or 8s. Keep in mind this would be still in a full trim car at 3450#s, still with working AC, power windows, seats, etc.

At that point it becomes an issue of sanity. I have a family that relies on my survival, not to mention the thousands of dollars it would take to complete a full cage for the car, drivers physicals, drivers classes, and all the good stuff that comes with 9s. As I said if the intake I test puts us enough into the 10s, I might not think the added money is worth it just yet, since once 9s come, especially if I am in the mid 9s, I will have to spend a bundle on safety upgrades.

Oh yeah, don't ask, I'm not telling But I KNOW it will work, and it may even run the MAF, not sure yet!

 

Very impressive Ski! I suppose if you trim 3 or 4 hundred pounds off that puppy you've got 10's easy, at virtually no cost ( but I'm sure they will pull you off the track with no cage at that point lol)!. :hail:

 

Free,

Thanks for the kind words. But I am good till 9.99 before I have to do any more changes to the car as far as safety. It already have a 5 point roll bar installed.