Welp.. the hp was way lower than expected.. but the tq was way higher.. the a/f was jut crap though.. 11.5 and gradually lowering and at about 4200rpm it hits 11.0; and below 10.0 before 4800rpm.. so we only ran it to about 5000rpm.

I will have the actual graph and some pics of the car on the dyno tomorrow.

dynorun.001 Max POWER= 249.9 Max TORQUE= 368.6
dynorun.002 Max POWER= 252.9 Max TORQUE= 376.4

air pressure in tires adjusted between runs.. the right rear tire was at like 24.. so put it back at 35..

Engine & Mods rundown

Engine and mods info

 

Still decent, around 300hp at the crank... I'm sure it'll pick right up when you get the pig rich problem taken care of, hope Ed Wright will do a free reprogram or two on the custom chip.... You could play around with the fuel psi some too.


BTW, noticed on your website you have AFPR defined as "(Air Fuel Pressure Regulator)", the A is for adjustable...

 

It is the stock TPI that is holding up that setup tho. I realize you need some tuning sure, but I think you could see 300 rwhp if you free up the TPI (and of course the tuning). That is almost the same setup I am going for, except my engine will be the vortec headed 350 HO from GMPP. My TPI however is going to be aftermarket stuff pigged out to the max. Anyway, AWESOME torque numbers dude. I'll bet it is a blast on the street.

 

I haven't taken my car to a dyno, but have been to the track many a times, and I know the weight of my car and I figuer I'm pulling atleast that much power with stock cam.....I am sure the car will make more power once you lean it out and peg the timing curve....by the way I would look into DIY proms....that's the only way to maximize the power potential you got there...

 

 

You need to feed those heads more air, trust me!!

Get some SLP runners and at least a 52mm TB. Port match EVERYTHING (runners, plenum, TB openings, base) all to match TPIS big mouth gaskets. (thats what I did).

You will be surprised how much more power you will make when you do that!

Also, retune the ECM when those mods have been completed. You'll hit 300 - 320 RWHP easy when you do the above.

Just trying to help!

 

I have the vortec setup see sig:
Still needs more tuning (too lean) but it will hit the 12's.

 

holy trout!! (i dont like mackral)


they ran your car on the dyno with just thoes blocks blocking the tires!? no straps!?!?

please tell me they just didnt have the straps on in that pic...





btw, i think with a stealth ram, LT1 intake, or any other non restrictive EFI intake, you will make a good bit more power from that motor

 

LOL.. they had already taken them off when the pic was taken..

 

Shaun, I think Mike is a little optimistic about your #'s when you upgrade the runners,tb, etc. I'd say you'd be at around 270rwhp and 390rwtq, which would make for one fun car on the street. The reason you won't see 300-320rwhp is because that zz4 cam just won't let enough air in your engine to make that kind of hp. Plus you're still running the long tube runners. I think your #'s are good right now and they're exactly where they should be for a good running engine. I'm sure your car is a blast to drive to, especially when you can blast most anything out of the hole, well at least if you can hook up all that tq. Good luck and if you want some advice, I'd say don't be in a big hurry to keep modding your car for max hp. Enjoy your car how it is and maximize it's perf. by experimenting with tuning and stuff of that sort. As for myself always wanting more hp is the problem I've gotten into over the yrs. and I end up breaking stuff or getting in over my head,$$$-wise. Good luck with the car.

 

Thanks man.. what i have decided to do was do the custom made ram-air setup which shouldn't cost me by a couple $$'s and i turned down the fuel pressue a couple turns to 43 from 45.. i am going to have my cutout installed and then i am going to dyno it with it closed and once with it opened and then play with the afpr as needed to maximize it. If i still end up with the A/F ratio taking a dive early.. i will give the chip back to ed to get that corrected. (fastchip) I know a lot of you guys say DIY prom. Which i plan to do in the future.. but this is my daily driver and i can't afford to drive it to much without the most efficient tuning.. i also don't want to be stuck somewhere from making a wrong change. I will have plenty of time to learn more about DIY proms while i save more money. Before i spend anymore money on the engine.. it will be going to suspension, paint, and some bigger meat to keep the tires from spinnin so much. Its defintily a blast to drive.. its really loud even without the cutout. It gets raspy too.. so i am wondering about going to a different muffler. We'll see once i get some more $$$.

 

Don, I think you made a typo and typed too lean when you meant too rich. His AF ratio is in the 11s and drops to the 10s. He should have his AF ratio somewhere in the 12.4-12.8 range and needs to lean it more.

Shaun, you definitely need to dump that "FAST CHIP" and do you own. A WB O2 would also be nice, but you can fine tune on the dyno in a pinch. Running too rich can toss a lot of HP out the window.

This (too rich) is a common problem a lot of guys find when they first take their car to a dyno. Once they get the AF ratio in the 12.4-12.8:1 range, they generally find their max power.

 

Thanks for the info.. when i get some more $$ i will be getting it back on the dyno and playing with the fuel pressure some.

As far as the chip.. like i said.. this is my daily driver and i was already 3 weeks without a car.. had to get something in there to work from.. It will be a good base to learn from, i also have my stock 305 chip and hyperjunk chip to compare and learn more and more.. but i just didn't have the knowledge yet to go working 24/7 to try and tune my car myself when i needed to get around without damaging a new engine.

 

I meant my car is too lean.

 

The nice thing about eprom burning, is you do things in "baby steps" and always carry you last "known good" eprom (just in case). There is absolutely no reason why you should end up stranded if you approach eprom burning slowly and methodically.

As for using an AFPR, you will probably find that you can not lean it far enough by the AFPR alone. You are seriously rich and most AFPRs can only be decreased so much until you have the screw totally removed and STILL have too much fuel pressure to get your AF ratio right.

This is the VERY REASON I originally got into eprom burning. I found I was running too rich even with the screw removed from the AFPR. The only way to lean myself was by decreasing the amount of fuel in the eprom.

Then, I could select the fuel pressure I preferred and then compensate within the eprom.

 

I knew it had to be something.

 

Yea i hear ya.. i only had my stock 305 chip and hyperjunk chip.. and it ran waaaaayyy to out of of parameters.. the headers were getting red hot.. so i bought a stock 350 chip and the Block learn was way low.. engine still getting hot and i needed to drive this sucker and break it in and have something to drive.. wasn't about to overheat or ruin the new engine.. so i went ahead and paid the extra $170 to get a custom chip and will use it as my base to learn from and then later down the road i can do the tuneing myself when i got to a better intake and possibly larger cam.

 

Actually you are at the PERFECT TIME to begin to learn eprom burning. The biggest mistake most guys do, is they wait until they NEED a new eprom. But then, there setup is so vastly different that they cannot begin to learn - to many things to overcome and they don't have a clue to start.

That is why I suggest that people begin burning eproms as soon as possible AND as close to a stock engine as possible. You then ALWAYS have the stock eprom to fall back on (should something go wrong). But you can also see the results of your tuning efforts as you learn.

Then, when you start to make changes to the engine, you are not intimidated by all the tables in the eprom and you actually know what to do.

This is exactly what I did and when I swapped my intake and heads for a Miniram and new heads (I am still debating about which cam to install and whether I may just rebuild/stroke my motor), I was able to "draft" a bin and had the car purring in a couple of quick burns as I played with the injector constant.

I still had a number of changes to make after that to get the engine to it's full potential. But I was able to get the engine running very good in just a couple of quick burns and as better than most of the custom eprom burners would have done. And now it's WAY beyond that.