think you'll need abit more then those mods. you listed. I have a similar setup to what you listed and i'm not turning those times yet. my next two bolton mods are going to be a set of pulleys and a prominator for the computer. Then i have to get everything dialed in right. I still don't think it will run high 12's more likly 13.30's will see.......

 

The combo I listed earlier is the combo I'm building for a buddy of mine. My combo is in my sig.

My buddies combo "should" hit a high 12 with-out gutting the car.

To answer your question, I think you will still need to add at least a mild cam (like the one I'm putting in my buddy's motor) to hit a high 12.

All those mods and the stock cam wont cut it. Expect mid to low 13's with optimal traction if you stick with the stock cam.

Just my $.02

 

Even a moderately optioned IROC would be lighter then a lightly optioned Formula. The firebirds have at least an extra 30# in the nose (flip up headlights, more wiring, heavier steel air box…), heavier trim and most interior parts. I've never seen a formula without some electric options like the power antenna and pull down hatch (I've never really paid attention but I've never seen an IROC with a power antenna), and the urethane wing (with steel internal supports) is heavier then anything that was used on a camaro). FWIW, surprisingly power windows are actually lighter in this car then manual windows.

 

have to disagree its pretty common knowledge that the formulas are the lightest 3rd gen V8 f-bodies. the formulas where put out to be the anwser ( or aleast compete )to the Mustang LX 5.0's. All the power of the IROC or GTAs but afew hundred pounds lighter. Heres a link to prove my point.... www.goingfaster.com/spo/formhist.html

 

My formula 350 hardtop with just about no, non performance options, and a just about empty tank weighs 3410. A friend's Z28 with very similar options (neither lightened at all with the exception of getting rid of the spare, jack…), subframe connectors and maybe a little less then a 1/4 tank weighs 3230.

 

I think that would be my reason for running a stick. your 60s are in the 1.9 range, get 1.7s out of that and you have 13.2-13.3, the way you are now. Factor the pulleys, and the computer mod, and there you have very low 13s, maybe 13.0. I also think by retarding the cam, the ported plenum, along with the rockers would provide enought top end power, that the T56 or T5 would be better geared for the car, keeping it in its power band...

I would love to try this, but definately not this season!

 

Going from 1.9's to 1.7's will typically give you .3-.4 at the big end of the track, and 1.7's are very workable with a T56, decent gears and radials (I've run as fast as 1.71 in my '97 with 4.10 gears and 275 40 17 GSC's), especially if you stay on the radials (a lot of people get traction and kill their top end by installing big, soft tires that absorb a lot of power).

MD… Like I already said, with what you've got on your car, assuming that there is nothing wrong with it, it should be capable of at least really low 13's maybe some high 12's. I suspect that my formula would run 12's with headers and a higher stall converter (or manual tranny)

 

i would be happy with mid 13s

i am going to try and fool around with timing today for the first time EVER. fuel pressure havent touched that or do i know where its at.

 

Hey 1bad91z, what times are you running? I'm trying to decide on what type induction/engine to go with tpi or maybe lt1.
Also how are you liking you combo and does it still get halfway decent gas milage?

 

No times yet. I waiting on $$$$ to get my Moser 12-bolt. With gears and slicks, I'm shooting for high 11's.

The car gets ~15-17 mpg / city with the new motor/6-speed combo. Haven't taken any highway trips with the new combo yet.

 

the only comment i'm really going to make about this whole debate is... I doubt there is any wieght savings at all with a T56 over a 700R4

if anything the bare T56 outweighs it by a good margin. 700R's are chuckable... T56's... are not. A flywheel and clutch setup probalby weighs bout as much as the small TC on a 700...

if your looking for weight savings when you put that trans in.. don't eat anything for a few days.

 

Stock clutch assembly weighs 38#, the aluminum flywheeled street twin weighs 35# and the steel flywheeled one weighs 50#. Does any TC weigh even close to that? T56's are well over 100#, and I'm fairly certain that they're heavier then a 700r4, though I've never weighed either. I know that I can stick a 700r4 in without a jack much easier then a T56, to the extent that I've made a jack pad to fit the ribs on the bottom of one just for that reason.

 

Thats why I said Gforce T5, lighter, and it takes some sill to drive the car, instead of just a right foot! I still think it would be a better all around car and have a better chance with a stick behind it, plus autos are boring!

 

I would kill for a g-force 5 speed (a real one, I'm not all that impressed with their T5 stuff), but barring me being a whole lot richer it's not going to happen.

If you're bored with an auto you just need more horsepower.

 

Nah its just too easy to drive an auto, even with a full manual valve body. I would rather have a car that not everyone can drive to its full potential. I need all my arms and legs doing something!

 

weelllll.... I figured I post .

14.4@95 w/ 2.2 60 ft .....untuned ...bald tires ( 235/60/15 ) half tank of gas and 220lb's of buddy beside me


new cam picked out 220/220 . 510/.530 112 LSA and 4 deg adv ground in it.


Man I learned alot since I started this ..... I had quite the few things backwards I will update this when I get it dialed in more .....