Need some help with a game plan - TPI fixer upper
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Need some help with a game plan - TPI fixer upper
Last year I picked up a non running '85 Z28. It's a nice looking car but the original owner started some repair work on it and never completed it. It's changed hands twice before I finally got it and with each owner a little bit more damage was done to the EFI system.
I need to get the engine running in stock condition to pass Cal smog before I can even register it, and I have no idea which of the parts that came with it are working or not.
My plan is to check as many of the parts as I can with a digital multitester, check the fuel pressure, then put it together and try to start it.
I have my doubts about the injectors, since they've been sitting around in a box and exposed to the elements (moisture and dust).
Should I get a fresh set of injectors before I even try starting it? Or should I have the old ones cleaned or rebuilt or clean them myself?
What about the MAF? It seems like I've read they can't be tested...
Another thing, I was thinking that I might try test firing the motor using a known working vaccum HEI dist, just to eliminate a few variables. Then if it seems like it's doing ok, I'll put in the ESC distributor. Does that seem like a good idea? If so what would be a good number to set the advance at for test firing?
Finally, If all the sensors and other components test 'good' and it still won't start should I assume that the ECM is bad?
Any support here is greatly appreciated.
If I cant get my car running and passing smog, it will just have to be a parts car, but I've become attached to it already, and I'd hate to see that be it's fate.
Hope this isn't too many questions for one post.
Thanks
I need to get the engine running in stock condition to pass Cal smog before I can even register it, and I have no idea which of the parts that came with it are working or not.
My plan is to check as many of the parts as I can with a digital multitester, check the fuel pressure, then put it together and try to start it.
I have my doubts about the injectors, since they've been sitting around in a box and exposed to the elements (moisture and dust).
Should I get a fresh set of injectors before I even try starting it? Or should I have the old ones cleaned or rebuilt or clean them myself?
What about the MAF? It seems like I've read they can't be tested...
Another thing, I was thinking that I might try test firing the motor using a known working vaccum HEI dist, just to eliminate a few variables. Then if it seems like it's doing ok, I'll put in the ESC distributor. Does that seem like a good idea? If so what would be a good number to set the advance at for test firing?
Finally, If all the sensors and other components test 'good' and it still won't start should I assume that the ECM is bad?
Any support here is greatly appreciated.
If I cant get my car running and passing smog, it will just have to be a parts car, but I've become attached to it already, and I'd hate to see that be it's fate.
Hope this isn't too many questions for one post.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Let me rephrase this:
WTF am I supposed to do with a pile of parts that used to be a working TPI on my 85??
I'm not going to leave til someone helps me
WTF am I supposed to do with a pile of parts that used to be a working TPI on my 85??
I'm not going to leave til someone helps me
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
You can send out the injectors to Rich@Cruzinperformance.com to have the cleaned and tested..for a few bucks more he'll match them...total cost about $100.00, or buy a new set for about 225...your choice...personally I'd go with a new set.
Only thing I would buy would be the EGR valve and temp sender thingy...since once you assemble the plenum, you have to pull it to get at it next time. Not sure if you can get to the IAT with the plenum on, if not, pick up one too.
Everything else can be checked in place and swapped as needed.
Problem with usnig a vac advance dizzy, you may have to do some modding to get it to work...the injectors rely on distributor pulses to fire...not sure if the vac-dizzy can give you the correct signal, or how to bypass all that it needs to run correclty.
I'd just stick with what you have.
Regarding whether it strats or not...you're way to premature on thinking ECM...just start by assembling everything first, then T/Sing if needed.
Only thing I would buy would be the EGR valve and temp sender thingy...since once you assemble the plenum, you have to pull it to get at it next time. Not sure if you can get to the IAT with the plenum on, if not, pick up one too.
Everything else can be checked in place and swapped as needed.
Problem with usnig a vac advance dizzy, you may have to do some modding to get it to work...the injectors rely on distributor pulses to fire...not sure if the vac-dizzy can give you the correct signal, or how to bypass all that it needs to run correclty.
I'd just stick with what you have.
Regarding whether it strats or not...you're way to premature on thinking ECM...just start by assembling everything first, then T/Sing if needed.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Good enough, I'll go with that plan.
So is there a way I can pre test my dist to be sure it's ok before installing that?
Also is there a way of testing the MAF prior to assembly?
Basically, I'd like to put it together with as many known working, or at least pre-tested components as possible before turning the key for the first time.
Thanks for the help so far 8Mike9
So is there a way I can pre test my dist to be sure it's ok before installing that?
Also is there a way of testing the MAF prior to assembly?
Basically, I'd like to put it together with as many known working, or at least pre-tested components as possible before turning the key for the first time.
Thanks for the help so far 8Mike9
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
There's only a few things in the distributor that would cause it not to run..pickup coil can be tested with an ohmmeter and visually inspected for corrosion, the module can be bench tested at a lot of AP stores...but I don't think they're too reliable, I've had them test good, but still were bad on the car.
The reluctor is a visual check for cracks, etc...other than that, pretty much even if it's wornout, it should still allow for you to start the engine.
You could probably take it to an AutoElectric shop and for a few bucks have the whole thing bench tested...check around for pricing.
I wouldn't worry about the MAF...I've had two bad ones and both engines fired fine when the MAF was unplugged...others seem to have different results, not sure why.
Is this an early '85? or a later '85 setup...i/e do you have the 165 ECM?
Pick up a Chiltons at a minimum, the wiring diagrams are pretty good, and mostly correct..they also cover all the bench testing of most of the sensors.
The reluctor is a visual check for cracks, etc...other than that, pretty much even if it's wornout, it should still allow for you to start the engine.
You could probably take it to an AutoElectric shop and for a few bucks have the whole thing bench tested...check around for pricing.
I wouldn't worry about the MAF...I've had two bad ones and both engines fired fine when the MAF was unplugged...others seem to have different results, not sure why.
Is this an early '85? or a later '85 setup...i/e do you have the 165 ECM?
Pick up a Chiltons at a minimum, the wiring diagrams are pretty good, and mostly correct..they also cover all the bench testing of most of the sensors.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Okay, I'm about to blow my own cover here and let the whole world know how ignorant I really am.
The service tag... would that be on the ECM itself, or is that that tag in the console box?
The service tag... would that be on the ECM itself, or is that that tag in the console box?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Yes, on the ECM itself.
You'll need to drop it down to get a look at it.
Don't worry about asking questions...my guess is by the time you finish this project, you'll be the resident expert
You'll need to drop it down to get a look at it.
Don't worry about asking questions...my guess is by the time you finish this project, you'll be the resident expert
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
Yep... this is definitely an educational experience.
My car's outdoors under a tarp. If the weather clears this weekend, I'll be able to poke around and get a # off the ECM.
Thanks
My car's outdoors under a tarp. If the weather clears this weekend, I'll be able to poke around and get a # off the ECM.
Thanks
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