Hey guys haven't posted in while, just finnished installing new sdpc 360. not a direct bolt in many small mods necessary to get it to work. had to ! the AC(delete) to fit with the egr kit ( tube would not clear)

Summary:

old combo - iron head L98 tpi, SLP 1 3/4, Comp EX264HR, comp magnum 1.52 rockers, magnum pushrods, comp lifters, Holley52mm,full msd, accel 24lb, stock base / runners/ heads fully home ported(mild - no no hog) Pro-built 700R4 2200 act converter

New combo= SDPC 360 /vortec,LT4 Hot cam, AZSM large tube, svo 24lb, everything else the same


Problems,

Most are common knowledge
- oil pressure fixture at the back of the block - grind

- many holes to plug

- water pump by pass ( I wanted to hook it up, sdpc recommended

- used the egr kit ( had to be carefull drilling the slp's, getting everything lined up)

- relocate egr solenoid

- relocate coil

- used proform black crinkle valve covers ( they are taller than stock by a little, with the azsm runners were very tight -had to install runners first - didn't want to do this on the car)

- pain to get TV cable through the runners - but will go

- went through two cheap starters + broke starter housing chewed new flex plate - install sucked - I thought I knew how to do it - I guess I didn't - only work I had done that wasn't by myself -was to have my friend at the Transmition place but in my old flywheel and another reman starter- I felt really stupid

- Rookie error with installing the distributer as well, wrong position,got it sorted out- another rookie error, got #5 & #7 wires crossed - thing popped and backfired like no tommorrow.


The Drive

= Did the 20min break in bfore the starter broke Last staturday

Today got it all sorted , timed, tps adj, idle adj, oil changed after 1st 30mi break in drive-

Just went on 40mi cruise=Second drive

Car runs good - probably not as stong as the L98 with EX264HR in the low end (stock runners( under 3K rpm)) I have only taken this motor to about 3200 rpm - seems as if over 3K it will sceam- possibly, very quick-smooth-powerful - I expect maybe low 13 high 12 car (once tuned) gonna do the air box mod like 1bad91z - this car might be faster than my bolt on 2K SS (lid , zo6 maf, msd, SLP dual-dual,free mods) I expect right arround 300+RWHP Hoping for 315RWHP,with alot more torque than the LS1 , I think my combo is the same or better than the SDPC test mule ( edle brock runners, unadj stock chip , it used 24lb w/ low fuel pressure to run right, dyno headers) hopping for tuned 360-370 Flywheel HP.

Maybe too long for some- but I know I was waiting for some feedback- so now I will give some

Thanks
K

 

definately keep us posted. I have been eyeballin that puppy for some time now, hopefully you get good results so I can justify spending the dough.

 

Before anyone gets started, I know you can probably build a stonger motor for less ( not a whole lot less) with a carb, and the right parts, but I don't have any more time than what I spent on this project. Don't mean to soound like a weenie, but if you really want to go fast buy an LS1 and do the heads/cam thing probably the most HP for the dollar. this hobby sucks as far as money goes- that is the truth- and most of us camaro guys are cheap- thats whay we don't have vettes and porche's ( I'll admit I really like my Iroc, wouldn't trade it) But it seems as if SDPC has come up with a nice replacement for our L98's and whatever else came in our cars. That makes good power, and the LT1/Ls1 swap is pretty ambitious for your average backyard mechanic, without a welder,cuttoff wheel ,and alot of time/knowledge.

Plus - I like the street- the quarter is great- but I like a balanced car that :stops, breaks, turns, and goes fast as well, TPI's are great on the street - bottom line- probably won't beat an exotic to 150mph, but stoplight to stoplight and cruis'in, or on the curves - the tpi style of power is very enjoyable- I like my LS1 better on the freeway (6speed) anywhere else- the IROC is just more fun - IMHO

Sorrrry for long again :lala:

 

I've got less money in my 389 than if I had gone the LS1 route and I can rape any LS1 around. Granted you can spend more money and outrun me, but for the money, no one can run away from me.

I would like an LS1 for the fuel economy, but dollar for dollar, the LS1 is still expensive, though prices are coming down.

 

That what I meant - you can do it for less , but be honest it's not that easy. There are always exceptions- some people are very knowledgeable- know combos and have strong mechanical skills- I see a handful of guys on this board that truly have that level of skill- not everyone can run out and build a fast motor from srcatch, especially not their first time. you can buy a 98/99 Z28 for under 10K (hi mi) and throw $3500 at it and have a reliable 12 sec car that gets over 20mpg. Honestly - I don't under stand why alot of guys don't admit that their Forged/balanced 355/383/whatever with a super/mini/stealth ram with quality parts -to get tuned -in the car and running will cost between $5-$12k let alone a rear end , and trany to hold it. The sky is the limit with spending- let alone forced induction- or DFI

Yes there are people who don't get sucked in , and have very fast cars on tight budgets. And stay with full emissions, and drive daily? That is a tall order.

My $.02

 

Thankfully, I live in my own little world where I can justify the money spent with the knowledge, experience, learning and acquired skills that come along with it. I couldn't tell you how thankful I am that I got into PROM tuning when I went FI!! Now I can't imagine doing a carbed motor again! When I think back to where I was when I got my first firebird (v6 car), I'm most thankful for how much I've learned since then(although sometimes I get stupid and think what all that money could have bought!! )...

Basically, just buying an already fast car does get you a fast car, but you don't get anything personally (knowledge is power!)...

I hope I made sense..

 

great to hear. I have been eyeballing this motor for a while. Keep the driving impressions flowing as you drive it more and more. How does it idle and does it run hot..etc etc...

Thanks!

 

ttt

 

Sorry for not getting back sooner - been really busy

Haad to put in a new fuel tank last weekend + have a leak iiin the rubber feed line from the tank to the filter- will fix this weekend ( tank swap - total PITA-- as bad as everyone says IMHO)

Driveability

1. Idle- a little rough - 750rpm- steady(no prom tuning) Idles well though- more rough , but better than when I had the comp XE264HR-

2. runs softer than my old combo between 1500-2500rpm ( more stock like ( more cam , bigger runners = weak low end)

3. Pulls nicely after 3000rpm - not as agressive as the comp cam- but feels like more HP- not torque
- only had it to 4500 rpm ( need to adj TV cable, and possibly the trans governor) pulled very strong- definetly more HP than my home port iron L98 heads and XE264 - the car is not fully tuned yet- if I can get it to shift arroound 5500rpm ( detent, not manual shifted 700R)this thing will hual butt- ( I'm comparing this to my bolt on 6spd SS) not as fast at high 115+ speed - but will probably be able to out accellerate it- seriously

4. with a steel core radiator, 70/30 water mix with wetter water, and 180deg thermo- runs around 195 on the freeway, and 215-220 hot on stop in go traffic. - runs just a little hotter than I like but not bad- oil ccooler will go on soon - should be another layer of heat protection.

5. thing cranks over hard- harder than my last motor that had a least 1.3 more compression ratio points.

6. Vacum is not spectacular- but sufficient-ok no vacum related problems- brake pedal is a little harder but strong- also recommend stronger brakes, I believe stock brakes would be overwhelmed, for any serious driving- I feel much safer with the Baer kit- no joke- not about having cool brakes- but I want to be able to stop- heavy car with stock brakes and 360hp is a bad combo IMHO

7. oil pressure is 40psi idle cold , 35psi hot idle. 60+cold with rpms,55 psi hot with rpms over 2500rpm

Overall seems well matched to the Iroc's handing and braking capabilities- needs a little more suspension ( see sig for current set up) Stock like power/ driveabilty at cruise speeds- with fairly seerious HP/TQ at higher RPMs.

If you drive a near stock 3rd gen, this would be a significant overall power boost over a stock / mild set -up - just be prepared not to expect alot on the low end power- *
++If you were to run stock int/exh manifolds/intake runners/injectors in this car - it may not match the combo to well- hot cam needs all of the above on a TPI to work well

once I get it fully tuned + gas tank staitened out I will give another update.

Hopefully this answers alot of questions.

Oh yeah - EGR works, so does the smog pump