I just went to start my car and the check engine light came on and it won't start at all. No click, etc. I can't seem to get it to show any codes either, just 12. Any ideas? I did bypass the VATS a couple years ago, do you think the resistor could of failed or something or would that throw a code if it was the VATS?

Thanks

 

Just checked the MAF and ignition module, both seem fine. hmmm. This sucks, I was going to take it for emissions inspection tomorrow after I worked on it forever. argh. Why would the check engine light come on, but not show any codes? It's giving a code 12, so the ECM is ok right?

Oh yea, I just was looking around the engine compartment and the fuel pressure guage was loose That could of been a disaster.

 

Because it is a normal bulb test of the system for the check engine light to come on when you turn the key to the "ON" position and it will stay on until the car starts or you turn the key to the "OFF" position. If the resistor for VATS had failed, you should have gotten the security light unless the wire with the resistor was broken or the resistor had fallen out of the connector.

 

Ok, guess I just don't pay attention to it usually. Now, I wonder why it won't start.

 

Have you checked all the fuses, the Park/Neutral switch, voltage at the purple wire on the starter solenoid with the key turned to start?

 

Fuses are ok. No voltage at the purple wire when in the start position. Positive terminal on starter has 12.5 volts. I'll check the neutral switch next. In the meantime, have any other ideas what to check?

I unplugged the MAF, just for the hell of it, and it didn't throw a code.. could the computer be bad?

 

Is it possibly that the connection between the battery and starter isnt' 100 intact? Is the battery good?

 

The starter is a brand new mini starter and the battery is new and so are the battery cables.

I just tried starting it by jumping the purple wire to the big terminal on teh starter and the solenoid went out but the starter didn't turn over, just a ton of sparks. Shouldn't the starter motor of turned over?

 

maybe a broken wire in the column?

If thatr purple wire has no juice, def battery or wiring issue i would think,

 

Does your car even turn over? I ask this because you could have the computer unplugged and it will still turn over, meaning you have a faulty wire somewhere and its not a computer problem.

You might want to check to see if the park/neutral switch is working properly to.

 

Now that you mention the column, I found a little peice of metal yesterday that looks important. It was laying on peice of plastic that sheilds the underside of the dash, above the driver's feet.

 

Nope, doesn't turn over or anything. Sometimes when I turn it to start the lights on the dash 1/2 dim like it's going to start but nothing happens. Hmm it's like there's a bad connection somewhere.

 

Hmm, yea I'll look. I installed a kill switch and yesterday I was tightening the bolts in the dash, maybe I pinched a wire or something.

 

Ok, here's a better pic of the metal clip..




I retorqed my steering wheel recently, does it look like something that maybe I left out of the column?

 

That little piece of metal is the key warning buzzer retaining clip.

 

I still can't get it to start... I checked the neutral switch, it seems ok. There's still no voltage at the purple wire when I try to start it..

I think I may have a clue. I'm not sure if I said this yet, but I noticed when it began having trouble starting that the check engine light, parking brake light, etc would go half dim, as if it were going to go through the process of starting. Now though none of the lights dim at all. Is there some mechanism somewhere that has to do with shutting off power to the guages etc before the engine starts?

BTW.. the buzzer still works when I have the key in the ignition, so I don't think that peice of metal is from that. I'm pretty sure I put the column back together right.

 

There's a starter enable relay behind the driverside kickpanel.

 

I replaced that a little while ago.. It makes a clicking noise so I think it's ok. I guess I'll try bypassing it or something though to be sure.

 

Pull the center console and disconnect the park/neutral connector and check the dark green/white wire at pin "F" for power with the key in the start position. If you have power to that pin, jumper pin "E" (purple wire) & pin "F" of that connector. With your foot on the brakes, try starting the car. If the car starts, the problem is in the park/neutral switch. If it doesn't start, you need to check the purple wire from the park/neutral switch to the starter solenoid. BTW, does item #16 in this picture look familiar. Also, those lights you mentioned as dimming are supposed to dim when you start the car because of the power drain from the starter.

 

Got it to run!! It was the starter relay. There was glue or something holding the "lever" from moving. I pulled it with my fingers and it snapped free and the car started right up

 

Aha. I just found out why the starter relay got melted/frozen. A couple days ago I put the missing bolts in my center console and tightened it down. I had a kill switch in the ash tray at the end of the center console. I just ripped the kill switch out and one of the wires was crushed and must have been grounding to the frame. Thanks for all the help everybody