ZZ4 Cam Owners
ZZ4 Cam Owners
ZZ4 Cam owners, I have just recently bought a ZZ4 Cam and looking to install within the next two weeks. Can anyone tell what roller lifter works best with the ZZ4 Cam or the Roller Lifter that you are using with the cam?
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
A roller lifter is a roller lifter is a roller lifter for the most part. Use the factory roller lifter. Unless you want to dish out $$$ for tall version aftermarket link bar design (retro-fit).
Just wanted to see if those who are using the ZZ4 Cam experienced some trouble with a specific roller lifter that I should stay away from. I agree that the factory roller lifter should do but just wanted to ask those with experience with this cam. And, I definitely do not want to spend too much on roller lifters that do add anything to my performance. Also, do you think running this ZZ4 Cam with my new Vortec Heads is a good setup to achieve 300+ hp.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
The cam is a factory roller design. My guess is that the percentage of the people that run it use factory lifters or OE replacements by Comp. From seeing and talking in the various other ZZ4 cam threads, that is the general impression I am under. There is no such thing as a "high performance" lifter. They don't increase performance. They only take away from, when they fail. The only thing half close is the high bleed lifters, which I wouldn't run unless you have a big mismatch in components.
Have you had the Vortec heads clearanced for more lift (milling the guide boss)? You'll run out of room. Otherwise it should be a pretty sound combination.
Have you had the Vortec heads clearanced for more lift (milling the guide boss)? You'll run out of room. Otherwise it should be a pretty sound combination.
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
provided you have an 87+ block you should be using stock or O.E replacement roller lifters. If you have an earlier block use link-bar retrofit lifters.
Lifters dont really give you horsepower, If they are too heavy they can limit RPM but if you stay away from 6500 with a stock vortech head you should be ok.
Lifters dont really give you horsepower, If they are too heavy they can limit RPM but if you stay away from 6500 with a stock vortech head you should be ok.
Yeah, I have an 1987 350 IROC-Z28 with large tube runners, Vortec Heads, port plenum, and 52 mm TB.
I have not done any milling to the guide boss. Should I go to the machine shop before I install the Cam and save myself a headache? I definitely don't want to run out of clearance.
I will try to stay under 6500 rpm.
I have not done any milling to the guide boss. Should I go to the machine shop before I install the Cam and save myself a headache? I definitely don't want to run out of clearance.
I will try to stay under 6500 rpm.
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
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Transmission: 8sp
If they are vortech heads and you stick with a 1.5 rocker ratio I think you will be ok with guide clearance. I am using 1.6 RR's and I only had to mill slightly just for peace of mind.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Yea, probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I know I would. at .474 intake and .510 exhaust, the intake is borderline, probably just a hair over. The exhaust, yea, it's going to need help.
What valve springs are you using then?
What valve springs are you using then?
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Originally posted by str8ballin22
poncho@home, I'll let you know how it goes when I get everything set up. I'll probably do some slight milling myself for peace of mind.
poncho@home, I'll let you know how it goes when I get everything set up. I'll probably do some slight milling myself for peace of mind.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 134
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From: Broken Arrow, OK (Tulsa)
Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 L31 Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
I have the vortec heads and zz-4 cam. so far my best dyno was 283/396 to the wheels.. this was with a vacum leak in the brake boost and a broken tranny mount. Have yet to get the time to finish gettting the bugs out and get a good tune on it. 300 to the wheels are possible with this combination though.
If i did it again.. i might try the LPE219 cam.
I did put Lt4 springs, used 1.5 rr's and cut down the guides a tad.
If i did it again.. i might try the LPE219 cam.
I did put Lt4 springs, used 1.5 rr's and cut down the guides a tad.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 134
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From: Broken Arrow, OK (Tulsa)
Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 L31 Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
just some other info:
stock tb, plenum and runners...
24 lb SVO injectors
SLP 1 3/4th headers
8* advanced timeing
45 fuel pressure
Crank under drive pulley
Fully synthetic oil
1/4 turn on the valves
But, like i said.. vacum leak from the brake booster and from a leaking shrader valve and vacum control valve in the a/c too. Broken Tranny mount. Had about 700 miles on the engine.
high flow cat, 3 inch from the end of the y-pipe back, crapmaster 80 series holding me back a bit.
This is a dyno from before any tuneing.. superchip for a stock L98 tpi sd.. figure the numbers would be higher if i didn't have the vacum leak. Below the dyno is a timeslip ran before tuneing as well.
stock tb, plenum and runners...
24 lb SVO injectors
SLP 1 3/4th headers
8* advanced timeing
45 fuel pressure
Crank under drive pulley
Fully synthetic oil
1/4 turn on the valves
But, like i said.. vacum leak from the brake booster and from a leaking shrader valve and vacum control valve in the a/c too. Broken Tranny mount. Had about 700 miles on the engine.
high flow cat, 3 inch from the end of the y-pipe back, crapmaster 80 series holding me back a bit.
This is a dyno from before any tuneing.. superchip for a stock L98 tpi sd.. figure the numbers would be higher if i didn't have the vacum leak. Below the dyno is a timeslip ran before tuneing as well.
Last edited by Shaun 90 Iroc; Aug 27, 2004 at 05:42 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 647
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From: Oklahoma
Car: 1991 Trans AM GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
a little added info...Shaun's car will throw you back in your seat with the setup he is running. I was a bit surprised at the difference in power between his setup and the stock TPI setup when i rode in his car.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 647
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From: Oklahoma
Car: 1991 Trans AM GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Shaun 90 Iroc
refresh.. i fixed it!
refresh.. i fixed it!
quote:Originally posted by Stekman
You have the tools?
______________________________
Stekman, I don't have the tools but I have a guy at the machine shop that will hook me up if a little milling needs to be done.
Shaun 90 Iroc, you'll definitely get about 300+ on the hp to the rear when you take care of the vaccum hose. Ever consider going with a 52 mm TB, porting the plenum and going with some high flow runners. You'd probably squeeze out about 10-17 more hp. I didn't think going with a stock TB and stock runners would give you over 275 hp and you're doing it with a bad vaccum hose. Nice. :hail:
You have the tools?
______________________________
Stekman, I don't have the tools but I have a guy at the machine shop that will hook me up if a little milling needs to be done.
Shaun 90 Iroc, you'll definitely get about 300+ on the hp to the rear when you take care of the vaccum hose. Ever consider going with a 52 mm TB, porting the plenum and going with some high flow runners. You'd probably squeeze out about 10-17 more hp. I didn't think going with a stock TB and stock runners would give you over 275 hp and you're doing it with a bad vaccum hose. Nice. :hail:
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