What would cause this?? I changed the maf sensor to get the engine running about 1000 miles ago. Well break in was over so I decided to take her on a beat run. Got on it ran great but ses lite came on and I got a code 33. Could it be the ecm or the burn off deal on it for the maf??

 

oh and yes i did disconnect the battery since i replaced the maf

 

It could just be a false code or caused by the TPS. What do you have the voltage set at for that. I had repalced my MAF and was getting a code 33 intermittently when I got on it after I changed it. After I drove it a while and reset my TPS it went away.

 

CAN SOME ONE TELL ME WHERE THE ECM FUSE AND HOLDER IS FOR AN '85 IROC-Z? IS IT BY THE BATT ON THE LEFT SIDE WITH AN ORANGE AND BROWN WIRE? THANKS....

 

To answer your question, it will be mounted on the right fender well near the battery. Also, if you would be so kind as to turn off the caps it would be greatly appreciated. BTW, in the future if you have a problem that you would like help with, kindly start a thread of your own instead of jumping into someone elses thread that is not related to your problem.

 

I would check the TPS as well.

 

That is a good possibility because I did adjust the tps the same day it threw the code. I reset the computer so we will see.
Thanks Guys!!

 

I adjusted it to .540 v When i checked it it was at .350v So it needed adjustment.

 

I've been dealing with a code 33 too. Did this TPS adjustment solve the problem? I was set at .54V closed, but could only get to 3.5V at WOT. I have yet to make the adjustment and then drive the car. This code 33 is driving me crazy. I've tried (just about) everything. Please tell me this worked.

 

So far it has worked!!!! But, when it threw the code It was in the middle of a beat run. Floored to 100 and back again. The break in was over for the motor and had to try it out. If I were you I would replace the tps. Mine starts at .540v at max it is around 4.5v I know it has to be over 4volts at wot. THanks, Mark

 

Thanks. I messed with the TPS and the closest I could get was .59 closed and 4.07 open, and that was with the thing pulled all the way forward. I think I'll just replace it. Man, I hope this is the answer to my problem.

Kevin

 

Before you replace it you could try bending the tab that the throttle linkage pushes on. I bought a new one and tried to adjust it but couldn't get it close to .540 so I had to bend it upwards a bit. It is worth a shot it might save you some $$.
Thanks,
Mark

 

Do you mean the tab that hits the sensor? On the other side the idle adjustment screw stops the throttle, no?

Kevin

 

Well, so far so good. I tried your trick and got the TPS to .54 and 4.11. I drove the car and it didn't set the code. It used to set the code when I would let the RPMs drop below 2K when in gear. I purposely let the car bog (made turns in 4th, etc) and there was no code at times when I was expecting it to set. That's how long I've been dealing with this code, I know exactly when it's coming. Thanks for all your help.

Kevin