Engine Buildup Time... 383. Take A Look.
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From: San Lorenzo, California
Car: 1987 Firebird Trans AM
Engine: 383 TPI...very soon
Transmission: TH700R4
Engine Buildup Time... 383. Take A Look.
Okay, It's time, my old engine is being retired.
So I been looking at 383 kits on eBay, but it seems all the kits don't have exactly what I want, but I found one that looks fair here.
I really wanted forged pistons, incase I plan to run Nitrous in the future, but the price on kits with forged pistons are way expensive.
So either way, I'm looking at:
350 LO5 Block, .040 over
3.75" Stroke Scat 9000 Crank
4130 I Beam Rods
Either Option D in that kit (10.9:1 compression on 64cc heads) OR a kit with Forged Pistons, somewhere around 10.3-10.6:1
AFR 195 cc Street Heads, 67 cc chambers (so 10.9:1 will end up around 10.5:1) With Upgraded Springs.
ZZ4 Camshaft
1.6 roller rockers, new GM Roller Lifters
Ported Stock Base (for now, to get her running, Edelbrock Later)
SLP runners, Ported
30lb SVO Injectors
Rebuilt Stock Distributor
Edelbrock TES Headers, then existing 3" cat back.
That's my plan... how does it sound? I am hoping for close to 300rwhp/400rwtq, but I think more realistically I'm gonna end up with 275rwhp/375rwhp or so. Does that sound about right.
I know someone is gonna ask me about the cam, I'm in Cali and I need to pass smog, so I gotta keep it mild and I've heard of someone on the board running a 350 with Vortec heads and the same cam making about 270/380 or so, so I think I'll be fine.
Now for the questions I have...
With I beam rods am I going to have major clearance issues with the block or cam? I've heard both sides of the story, no clearance issues to major issues... so does anyone have experience?
I had thoughts of going with the AFR 180 cc heads, but I think the 195's would be better to feed the 383, right?
Are 30 lb injectors big enough or should I go with 36's maybe?
If I spray a 150 shot of Nitrous on a setup like this, is that majorly pushing my luck, or will I be fine? I heard that 125 is the max for Hyper Pistons, but I also heard people spraying 200+ shots on Hyper pistons.
Any input on anything, or suggestions are needed. This is my first shot at plans for an engine, everything sounds pretty good to me, but I want other people's input. Thanks guys.
Oh last question, would it be a better idea to buy parts individually then have it balanced, that way I can get exactly what I want... how much is balancing typically? I found good prices for Cranks and Rods on eBay, Forged pistons are expensive, but oh well. I'd have exactly what I want then.
So I been looking at 383 kits on eBay, but it seems all the kits don't have exactly what I want, but I found one that looks fair here.
I really wanted forged pistons, incase I plan to run Nitrous in the future, but the price on kits with forged pistons are way expensive.
So either way, I'm looking at:
350 LO5 Block, .040 over
3.75" Stroke Scat 9000 Crank
4130 I Beam Rods
Either Option D in that kit (10.9:1 compression on 64cc heads) OR a kit with Forged Pistons, somewhere around 10.3-10.6:1
AFR 195 cc Street Heads, 67 cc chambers (so 10.9:1 will end up around 10.5:1) With Upgraded Springs.
ZZ4 Camshaft
1.6 roller rockers, new GM Roller Lifters
Ported Stock Base (for now, to get her running, Edelbrock Later)
SLP runners, Ported
30lb SVO Injectors
Rebuilt Stock Distributor
Edelbrock TES Headers, then existing 3" cat back.
That's my plan... how does it sound? I am hoping for close to 300rwhp/400rwtq, but I think more realistically I'm gonna end up with 275rwhp/375rwhp or so. Does that sound about right.
I know someone is gonna ask me about the cam, I'm in Cali and I need to pass smog, so I gotta keep it mild and I've heard of someone on the board running a 350 with Vortec heads and the same cam making about 270/380 or so, so I think I'll be fine.
Now for the questions I have...
With I beam rods am I going to have major clearance issues with the block or cam? I've heard both sides of the story, no clearance issues to major issues... so does anyone have experience?
I had thoughts of going with the AFR 180 cc heads, but I think the 195's would be better to feed the 383, right?
Are 30 lb injectors big enough or should I go with 36's maybe?
If I spray a 150 shot of Nitrous on a setup like this, is that majorly pushing my luck, or will I be fine? I heard that 125 is the max for Hyper Pistons, but I also heard people spraying 200+ shots on Hyper pistons.
Any input on anything, or suggestions are needed. This is my first shot at plans for an engine, everything sounds pretty good to me, but I want other people's input. Thanks guys.
Oh last question, would it be a better idea to buy parts individually then have it balanced, that way I can get exactly what I want... how much is balancing typically? I found good prices for Cranks and Rods on eBay, Forged pistons are expensive, but oh well. I'd have exactly what I want then.
Last edited by TheMysticWizard; Sep 23, 2004 at 06:37 PM.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Re: Engine Buildup Time... 383. Take A Look.
Originally posted by TheMysticWizard
Okay, It's time, my old engine is being retired.
So I been looking at 383 kits on eBay, but it seems all the kits don't have exactly what I want, but I found one that looks fair here.
I really wanted forged pistons, incase I plan to run Nitrous in the future, but the price on kits with forged pistons are way expensive.
So either way, I'm looking at:
350 LO5 Block, .040 over
3.75" Stroke Scat 9000 Crank
4130 I Beam Rods
Either Option D in that kit (10.9:1 compression on 64cc heads) OR a kit with Forged Pistons, somewhere around 10.3-10.6:1
AFR 195 cc Street Heads, 67 cc chambers (so 10.9:1 will end up around 10.5:1) With Upgraded Springs.
ZZ4 Camshaft
1.6 roller rockers, new GM Roller Lifters
Ported Stock Base (for now, to get her running, Edelbrock Later)
SLP runners, Ported
30lb SVO Injectors
Rebuilt Stock Distributor
Edelbrock TES Headers, then existing 3" cat back.
I'd deff look at Diff Headers. anything like SLP,Hooker Etc.
That's my plan... how does it sound? I am hoping for close to 300rwhp/400rwtq, but I think more realistically I'm gonna end up with 275rwhp/375rwhp or so. Does that sound about right.
I know someone is gonna ask me about the cam, I'm in Cali and I need to pass smog, so I gotta keep it mild and I've heard of someone on the board running a 350 with Vortec heads and the same cam making about 270/380 or so, so I think I'll be fine.
Base your cam on what intake/converter/gears/weight of car
Now for the questions I have...
With I beam rods am I going to have major clearance issues with the block or cam? I've heard both sides of the story, no clearance issues to major issues... so does anyone have experience?
just check and clearance the rob bolts as needed for the cam
I had thoughts of going with the AFR 180 cc heads, but I think the 195's would be better to feed the 383, right?
Id deff go with the 195's
Are 30 lb injectors big enough or should I go with 36's maybe?
30's are pleanty. You can find a few people running LOOTS more motor on SVO24's
If I spray a 150 shot of Nitrous on a setup like this, is that majorly pushing my luck, or will I be fine? I heard that 125 is the max for Hyper Pistons, but I also heard people spraying 200+ shots on Hyper pistons.
Keep a Dead on Tune and stay out of detonation and you will be fine with Hypers. belive it or not they are STRONGER then forged. but they tend to Shater like glass if you run into to much detonation. Where forged slugs will take more abuse. You will be fine with a 150shot.
Any input on anything, or suggestions are needed. This is my first shot at plans for an engine, everything sounds pretty good to me, but I want other people's input. Thanks guys.
Oh last question, would it be a better idea to buy parts individually then have it balanced, that way I can get exactly what I want... how much is balancing typically? I found good prices for Cranks and Rods on eBay, Forged pistons are expensive, but oh well. I'd have exactly what I want then.
Okay, It's time, my old engine is being retired.
So I been looking at 383 kits on eBay, but it seems all the kits don't have exactly what I want, but I found one that looks fair here.
I really wanted forged pistons, incase I plan to run Nitrous in the future, but the price on kits with forged pistons are way expensive.
So either way, I'm looking at:
350 LO5 Block, .040 over
3.75" Stroke Scat 9000 Crank
4130 I Beam Rods
Either Option D in that kit (10.9:1 compression on 64cc heads) OR a kit with Forged Pistons, somewhere around 10.3-10.6:1
AFR 195 cc Street Heads, 67 cc chambers (so 10.9:1 will end up around 10.5:1) With Upgraded Springs.
ZZ4 Camshaft
1.6 roller rockers, new GM Roller Lifters
Ported Stock Base (for now, to get her running, Edelbrock Later)
SLP runners, Ported
30lb SVO Injectors
Rebuilt Stock Distributor
Edelbrock TES Headers, then existing 3" cat back.
I'd deff look at Diff Headers. anything like SLP,Hooker Etc.
That's my plan... how does it sound? I am hoping for close to 300rwhp/400rwtq, but I think more realistically I'm gonna end up with 275rwhp/375rwhp or so. Does that sound about right.
I know someone is gonna ask me about the cam, I'm in Cali and I need to pass smog, so I gotta keep it mild and I've heard of someone on the board running a 350 with Vortec heads and the same cam making about 270/380 or so, so I think I'll be fine.
Base your cam on what intake/converter/gears/weight of car
Now for the questions I have...
With I beam rods am I going to have major clearance issues with the block or cam? I've heard both sides of the story, no clearance issues to major issues... so does anyone have experience?
just check and clearance the rob bolts as needed for the cam
I had thoughts of going with the AFR 180 cc heads, but I think the 195's would be better to feed the 383, right?
Id deff go with the 195's
Are 30 lb injectors big enough or should I go with 36's maybe?
30's are pleanty. You can find a few people running LOOTS more motor on SVO24's
If I spray a 150 shot of Nitrous on a setup like this, is that majorly pushing my luck, or will I be fine? I heard that 125 is the max for Hyper Pistons, but I also heard people spraying 200+ shots on Hyper pistons.
Keep a Dead on Tune and stay out of detonation and you will be fine with Hypers. belive it or not they are STRONGER then forged. but they tend to Shater like glass if you run into to much detonation. Where forged slugs will take more abuse. You will be fine with a 150shot.
Any input on anything, or suggestions are needed. This is my first shot at plans for an engine, everything sounds pretty good to me, but I want other people's input. Thanks guys.
Oh last question, would it be a better idea to buy parts individually then have it balanced, that way I can get exactly what I want... how much is balancing typically? I found good prices for Cranks and Rods on eBay, Forged pistons are expensive, but oh well. I'd have exactly what I want then.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 574
Likes: 1
From: San Lorenzo, California
Car: 1987 Firebird Trans AM
Engine: 383 TPI...very soon
Transmission: TH700R4
AFR 195's are either 68 or 74, I am thinking of having them milled down to 64, since it can be done from the place I was planning on getting them for like 125 extra.
I don't think I could afford an ALL Forged, I am looking at cast crank with forged rods and pistons.
I found another rotating assembly on eBay, Forged Pistons and Rods, it's here.
Also does that look like a good kit? I think it looks great, just what I want.
I don't think I could afford an ALL Forged, I am looking at cast crank with forged rods and pistons.
I found another rotating assembly on eBay, Forged Pistons and Rods, it's here.
Also does that look like a good kit? I think it looks great, just what I want.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,099
Likes: 2
From here: http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Scat...mbly_Kits.html
-383FHPS 383ci, Chevy 350 Forged Crank 3.750” Stroke, 5.700” H-Beam rods, 4.030” Bore SRP Forged Pistons $1,469.00
Forged 4340 Crankshaft Rotating Assembly
• 4340 Forged 6.000” and 5.700” Long I and H-Beam Bushed Rods (See options below.)
• SRP Flat Top Forged Pistons (See options below.)
• Will Balance Without “Mallory Metal”
• One-Piece or Two-Piece Rear Main Seal Crank Choice
An all forged assembly for about $1500
-383FHPS 383ci, Chevy 350 Forged Crank 3.750” Stroke, 5.700” H-Beam rods, 4.030” Bore SRP Forged Pistons $1,469.00
Forged 4340 Crankshaft Rotating Assembly
• 4340 Forged 6.000” and 5.700” Long I and H-Beam Bushed Rods (See options below.)
• SRP Flat Top Forged Pistons (See options below.)
• Will Balance Without “Mallory Metal”
• One-Piece or Two-Piece Rear Main Seal Crank Choice
An all forged assembly for about $1500
Last edited by Morley; Sep 26, 2004 at 08:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 574
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From: San Lorenzo, California
Car: 1987 Firebird Trans AM
Engine: 383 TPI...very soon
Transmission: TH700R4
I'm looking at 1000 for the rotating assembly, 1400 for the heads, then I'm gonna need injectors, runners, sensors, cam, etc etc. It's probably gonna end up in the 3500-4000 dollar range.
I am thinking I am gonna have the short block put together, and have the cam degreed in by a shop, and I'll put the rest together.
At this moment I'm probably gonna go with the second kit I posted from eBay. Unless I find something about the same for a cheaper price, but I doubt it. $989 for a kit with forged rods and pistons, with balancer and flex plate sounds like a good deal to me, and it's balanced too.
I am thinking I am gonna have the short block put together, and have the cam degreed in by a shop, and I'll put the rest together.
At this moment I'm probably gonna go with the second kit I posted from eBay. Unless I find something about the same for a cheaper price, but I doubt it. $989 for a kit with forged rods and pistons, with balancer and flex plate sounds like a good deal to me, and it's balanced too.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Originally posted by Morley
From here: http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Scat...mbly_Kits.html
-383FHPS 383ci, Chevy 350 Forged Crank 3.750” Stroke, 5.700” H-Beam rods, 4.030” Bore SRP Forged Pistons $1,469.00
Forged 4340 Crankshaft Rotating Assembly
• 4340 Forged 6.000” and 5.700” Long I and H-Beam Bushed Rods (See options below.)
• SRP Flat Top Forged Pistons (See options below.)
• Will Balance Without “Mallory Metal”
• One-Piece or Two-Piece Rear Main Seal Crank Choice
An all forged assembly for about $1500
From here: http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Scat...mbly_Kits.html
-383FHPS 383ci, Chevy 350 Forged Crank 3.750” Stroke, 5.700” H-Beam rods, 4.030” Bore SRP Forged Pistons $1,469.00
Forged 4340 Crankshaft Rotating Assembly
• 4340 Forged 6.000” and 5.700” Long I and H-Beam Bushed Rods (See options below.)
• SRP Flat Top Forged Pistons (See options below.)
• Will Balance Without “Mallory Metal”
• One-Piece or Two-Piece Rear Main Seal Crank Choice
An all forged assembly for about $1500
I got basically the same thing (6" H-beam rods) except Ross pistons but with a set of the three splayed main steel caps (Eagle) with my kit for $1275 shipped to my door..... I found the place on eBay and just called them and figured out a deal for my stuff. I think they went as 'gofaststuff' or something like that on eBay....
It adds up quick though! Including the cost of all of the peripherals like intake, headers, Y-pipe, oil pan, brackets and pullies, braided 6AN fuel line stuff, and the machine work on everything, I've got over $8k into my 383.... Of course the heads were ~$1900 of it..... And I sold off a lot of my old parts and stuff that I ended up upgrading....
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383
i would definatley consider a smaller injector, to avoid tuning issues later on after its all together. the last thing you need on an emmission test, is, tons of fuel making the engine pig rich. 24s @ 45 p.s.i. will support approx. 430 h.p. 22s @ 45 p.s.i. will support 390. if it were my choice, id install 22s, and play with the pressure.....tom
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
24# IS WORKNG FINE ON MY 383 SuperRam.....
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yes 24s seem to be the magic number for 383s. id hate to see him put 30s in and regret it. your engine makes some stout numbers. ive got 36s in my 436, and am currently moving down to 30s. unless the funds come around for a DFI soon....tom
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Not yet, though will take it to strip later this fall.
The Formy has 211K, but the drivetrain and new moor only have 2K on them.....
The Formy has 211K, but the drivetrain and new moor only have 2K on them.....
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Well..... Lets see.... my 383 at 6k was at 90% DC on 30lb SVO injectors with rail pressure set at 50psi..... That was with 419.8 RWHP.... I spin higher and make more power now. I am going to 42s....
30s will only get you so far and 24s are not enough if you build it to spin high RPM and want some serious power. It's all about what RPM you are going to hit and the obvious other variables like cylinder volume and relative efficiency of the engine (BSFC) and target power output.
Working fine and providing enough fuel for the engine to make as much power as possible while not going static are entirely different.
Oh yeah..... I also had my 30lb SVOs on my 355 that made a little over 300 RWHP (estimate based on ET/MPH, 13.6@105) and NEVER had a problem tuning them. I could get almost 20 MPG AVERAGE with that setup and I get 16-17 AVERAGE with my 500+ HP 383..... And I'm not done playing with the tune yet....
30s will only get you so far and 24s are not enough if you build it to spin high RPM and want some serious power. It's all about what RPM you are going to hit and the obvious other variables like cylinder volume and relative efficiency of the engine (BSFC) and target power output.
Working fine and providing enough fuel for the engine to make as much power as possible while not going static are entirely different.
Oh yeah..... I also had my 30lb SVOs on my 355 that made a little over 300 RWHP (estimate based on ET/MPH, 13.6@105) and NEVER had a problem tuning them. I could get almost 20 MPG AVERAGE with that setup and I get 16-17 AVERAGE with my 500+ HP 383..... And I'm not done playing with the tune yet....
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