OK...so I dont have to type everything out again, here is a link to where I posted in the Tech/General Forum.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=268596

Thanks in advance guys...John

 

just to put in my about the cam specs on DD2000, I really don't see the point in using the advertised duration rather than .050". As an example, this past weekend I took my camaro to the track for the first time since building it. I used a horsepower calculator to estimate what the motor is putting out, using the mph and ET i got.
Using 3550 lbs with driver for the weight, the calculator says that the motor is putting out about 390 HP at the fly with a MPH of 106.1.
with the same weight, and an ET 12.948 sec, it estimates 381 HP at the fly.

Now, compare that to the specs DD2000 estimates... 390 peak HP exactly. That was with the cam specs entered at .050" and a roller profile.
I should mention however, that I think the car can go faster in the quarter if I shift a little sooner, but we'll see next time out.

As for your combo White, I think you've put together a nice package. One change I would suggest though, is using the AFR 180cc heads instead. They have awesome low-mid lift flow, and sacrifice very little peak flow at the higher lifts as compared to the 190's. I think that'll make for more area under the curve. A 3500 RPM stall seems a tad bid high for the street too...maybe 3000-3200. I would agree that a wider LSA, and hence less overlap would be easier to tune, with the duration numbers you have, at least for a street car... but it can still work. I'm using a 110 LSA cam on my motor as well, but my duration is only 214/220, it runs and idles completely fine though.
I'm really starting to want a comp extreme energy HR cam now, cuz their ramp rates are pretty aggressive... that should put even more area under the curve without changing the duration or lift. Just make sure you get the matching valve springs.
Oh, n' you'll probably want your compression to be in the area of 9.75-10.25 with that set-up, just my opinion though. Well, whichever direction you decide to go, Good Luck n' have fun!

 

1320...thanks for all that info.

I talked to a buddy of mine that has a 96 Z28 and has built the motor in his car...and he said that everything sounded good to him as well. He said that I should probably go with at least a 3800 stall with that setup. I know several guys that are running a 3500+ stall on the road with no problem. I have a friend with a lightly modded LS1 car that when he bought the car, it had a 3500 in it but he traded another buddy of ours some cash and the 3500 for a 4400 and he the car is his daily driver.

I have another question that I could use some help with. When I talked to my buddy earlier, he asked me what I was going to do as far as the bottom end goes and I got to looking around and found a complete rotating assembly for $750 on Jegs.

The kit includes:

5140 Steel SIR lightweight connecting rods, std/std cast steel crank, Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, Clevite rod and main bearings, plasma moly cast iron ring sets

The kit I am looking at is a 350 +.030" overbore. Is this a good kit and way to go as far as strengthining (sp?) the bottom end?

Thanks for all the help guys.

John

 

that kinda sounds like an eagle rotating assembly. I used the eagle 383 stroker kit for the 1-piece rear seal, and the parts are practically identical to the ones you mentioned. You mentioned in the other post that the motor may be making something on the order of 500+ HP at the flywheel right? I think you're gonna be pushing the limits of those cast parts. Especially considering that with a 350 and the cam you wanna use, that power is gonna be coming in at a relatively high RPM. High power and high RPM may require that you invest in forged internals... them cast parts will probably be okay for a decent amount of time, but if u're gonna be takin the motor to the track on a regular basis, I think you should just spend the money on forged parts and not even have the worry of broken parts, ever on your mind.

 

That is an Eagle rotating assembly that I mentioned.

 

That rotating assembly won't work cuz it's for a two piece rear seal block, u're 91 TPI is a 1 piece. I guess you could get that billet adapter piece, but then that defeats the purpose of the cheap RA. Shell out a couple hundred more, n' u could get the 1-piece 383 stroker.
I know there's sum 355 kits out there for 1-piece rear seals, just gotta find them.

 

Well damn...guess I will start looking for the one-piece 355 kits and if I can't find them, I will get the stroker kit...but I dont really want to stroke it if I can get away with it.