high 12s low 13s
high 12s low 13s
ok i want to run all motor no spray low 13s maybe even high 12s for under 2500 streetable and hopfully like 20 mpg i know what your thinkin this guy is crazy but ive heard combinations doing it for 2000 and pretty streetable the mpg i dont know but i know it wasnt a killer i would use there combinations but they were all carb motors and i got fuel injected and i would like to keep it that way so if you have some suggestions of what i should do or some combinations please tell me oo yea its an all stock 350 tpi thanks im only 16 so i really apreciate it has 120000 miles on it but not a thing wrong with it and also please not turbo or supercharged suggestions
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From: Lombard Il
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 383 vortec tpi
Transmission: t56 woot
Well if you want to stay fullie your best intake on the cheap is gonna be Stealth Ram, but if i were you id do a
. Topics like this have been beaten to death again, and again. Theres literally hundreds of ways you can build an engine to do what you want so look around and weigh your options.
. Topics like this have been beaten to death again, and again. Theres literally hundreds of ways you can build an engine to do what you want so look around and weigh your options. Supreme Member
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
I'm in the process of doing what you want to do. I don't know what your budget is. I will be going to the track on January 22 to try out my latest combination. Hopefully low 13's. Here is what I would do. By the way mine came with the dual cat option.
1. Do your exhaust system first. Get a good set of headers, replace the factory "wye" with a good aftermarket one. 2 1/2 inch pipes between the headers and the cats. 3 inch if single cat. Three inch pipe after the cat(s) to the muffler. All this is mandrel bent tubing by the way. A good free flowing muffler.
2. I would do the intake track next. One option is the SLP cold air intake. I had that but decided to make my own for even higher air flow. I used the LT1 elbow and 3 1/2 inch pipe. Took some work. SLP would be an easier option. Do a search for cold air intake and you can see what others have done. I relocated the charcoal canister to by the battery when I had the SLP CAI intake. This worked out well for my custom cold air intake.
3. MAF. I removed the screens on my MAF in 1991 with no problems. Still the same MAF and it runs just fine. Take it for what its worth.
4. Relocate your lower control arms. A number of companys make kits to do so. Other suspension mods as you get the money.
5. Get a good set of drag tires. I'm running the Mickey Thompson ET Street radials.
The next items will be according to your budget and what I have done and in no particular order. Some of this is not necessary to get the low to 13's but will make things easier. A good 60 foot time will do a lot. That means having chasis mods and hooking up real good along with fine tuning your driving skills. I'm not quite there yet with my driving and traction with all I have done.
A. Roller Cam. For the street something in the 212 to 215 degree range on the intake side and a split pattern. It will idle well and can get you 400HP on engine. I have the ZZ9 cam. You will need head work or aftermarket heads to run these cams do to the higher lift. I also have 1.6 roller rocker arms.
B. Heads. This is where it is at. For the money that you would spend on your stock heads you would be better off with something like the Trick Flow heads. I'm using the Trick Flows but there are other heads just as good or better. This is the place to spend the money. The heads is where the HP is. By the way I'm running 10.5:1 compression with flat top pistons.
C. I'm using the Edelbrock TPI intake manifold. I had mine extrude honed. You do not have to. I would just port match every thing.
D. I have a 52MM throttle body. I have also modified the plenum including siamesing the ports because I used the SLP runners. Arizona Street and Marine makes a good set of runners. You can get the SLP's and hog them out yourself. My SLP runners are modified and I'm going to go even further next year. Hehehe.
E. Or just buy the Accel Super Ram.
F. You will need a custom EPROM after all this to wring out all the HP of your combination. I'm in the process of doing this now. By the way I went to 24#/hr injectors with all my mods.
E. Rear end. I'm running 3.70 gears. If I were you I would stay with the 3.27 gears for now. I have serious traction problems with street tires in 1st gear with the 3.70 gears. The gear change would be the last thing I would do on the list. 3.45 gears are also an option.
F. Transmission if 700R4. I would get the car dyno'd and see where the power band is. Then I would get the B&M governor kit and adust the shift point to match the power band. I took a guess on mine. Right now mine shifts about 6000rpm in first and 5600rpm in 2nd. This should work out just fine because of the low first gear in the 700R4. My engine will not drop below the 4000 rpm mark going down the track. After I get the car dyno'd I will fine tune the shift points if necessary.
EDIT. I have a 2400RPM stall converter. For my setup this is plenty. I'm having traction problems as it is and at this time I see no reason to go any higher on the stall. Also I have a shift kit in my 700R4 to firm up the shifts. I would recomend one. A transmission cooler would not hurt either. I have one of those.
I have found it is not that easy to get into the 12's right away. I'm slowly adding miles per hour and lowering my et's every time at the track. My main problem is the driver and hooking up.
Allen
1. Do your exhaust system first. Get a good set of headers, replace the factory "wye" with a good aftermarket one. 2 1/2 inch pipes between the headers and the cats. 3 inch if single cat. Three inch pipe after the cat(s) to the muffler. All this is mandrel bent tubing by the way. A good free flowing muffler.
2. I would do the intake track next. One option is the SLP cold air intake. I had that but decided to make my own for even higher air flow. I used the LT1 elbow and 3 1/2 inch pipe. Took some work. SLP would be an easier option. Do a search for cold air intake and you can see what others have done. I relocated the charcoal canister to by the battery when I had the SLP CAI intake. This worked out well for my custom cold air intake.
3. MAF. I removed the screens on my MAF in 1991 with no problems. Still the same MAF and it runs just fine. Take it for what its worth.
4. Relocate your lower control arms. A number of companys make kits to do so. Other suspension mods as you get the money.
5. Get a good set of drag tires. I'm running the Mickey Thompson ET Street radials.
The next items will be according to your budget and what I have done and in no particular order. Some of this is not necessary to get the low to 13's but will make things easier. A good 60 foot time will do a lot. That means having chasis mods and hooking up real good along with fine tuning your driving skills. I'm not quite there yet with my driving and traction with all I have done.
A. Roller Cam. For the street something in the 212 to 215 degree range on the intake side and a split pattern. It will idle well and can get you 400HP on engine. I have the ZZ9 cam. You will need head work or aftermarket heads to run these cams do to the higher lift. I also have 1.6 roller rocker arms.
B. Heads. This is where it is at. For the money that you would spend on your stock heads you would be better off with something like the Trick Flow heads. I'm using the Trick Flows but there are other heads just as good or better. This is the place to spend the money. The heads is where the HP is. By the way I'm running 10.5:1 compression with flat top pistons.
C. I'm using the Edelbrock TPI intake manifold. I had mine extrude honed. You do not have to. I would just port match every thing.
D. I have a 52MM throttle body. I have also modified the plenum including siamesing the ports because I used the SLP runners. Arizona Street and Marine makes a good set of runners. You can get the SLP's and hog them out yourself. My SLP runners are modified and I'm going to go even further next year. Hehehe.
E. Or just buy the Accel Super Ram.
F. You will need a custom EPROM after all this to wring out all the HP of your combination. I'm in the process of doing this now. By the way I went to 24#/hr injectors with all my mods.
E. Rear end. I'm running 3.70 gears. If I were you I would stay with the 3.27 gears for now. I have serious traction problems with street tires in 1st gear with the 3.70 gears. The gear change would be the last thing I would do on the list. 3.45 gears are also an option.
F. Transmission if 700R4. I would get the car dyno'd and see where the power band is. Then I would get the B&M governor kit and adust the shift point to match the power band. I took a guess on mine. Right now mine shifts about 6000rpm in first and 5600rpm in 2nd. This should work out just fine because of the low first gear in the 700R4. My engine will not drop below the 4000 rpm mark going down the track. After I get the car dyno'd I will fine tune the shift points if necessary.
EDIT. I have a 2400RPM stall converter. For my setup this is plenty. I'm having traction problems as it is and at this time I see no reason to go any higher on the stall. Also I have a shift kit in my 700R4 to firm up the shifts. I would recomend one. A transmission cooler would not hurt either. I have one of those.
I have found it is not that easy to get into the 12's right away. I'm slowly adding miles per hour and lowering my et's every time at the track. My main problem is the driver and hooking up.
Allen Last edited by 1989GTATransAm; Dec 22, 2004 at 08:47 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 335
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From: Amarillo TX
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
this is for you as well as 1989gtatransam
since your going to have traction problems, and with a tpi you will, why not run the LT1 intake? Its cheaper than most other options and sure you lose bottom end torque, but you gain enough top end HP that it wont matter. Plus most people are wasting torque even with higly modified suspensions
since your going to have traction problems, and with a tpi you will, why not run the LT1 intake? Its cheaper than most other options and sure you lose bottom end torque, but you gain enough top end HP that it wont matter. Plus most people are wasting torque even with higly modified suspensions
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,859
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From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
Problem here in California is the smog laws. The only option is the Accel Super Ram or modify the TPI. I understand that BBK is working on a new "TPI" design that will be 50 state legal.
I have modified my current TPI to an extent that the power curve looks like one for an LS1 at least from 4200rpm on as that is where my dyno chart starts because of the 700R4. I will modify it further this comming year. Kind of fun experimenting.
Allen
I have modified my current TPI to an extent that the power curve looks like one for an LS1 at least from 4200rpm on as that is where my dyno chart starts because of the 700R4. I will modify it further this comming year. Kind of fun experimenting.
Allen Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Ringgold
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23's
Keep us updated on how the runs went when you get back from the track Allen
O and can you give me a price range on all those mods you listed above. Yours anyways, I know that that stuff can vary a whole lot!!!!!!!!!! Thanks
O and can you give me a price range on all those mods you listed above. Yours anyways, I know that that stuff can vary a whole lot!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
From: Laval, Canada
Car: 2004 BMW 330Cic
Engine: 3.0
Transmission: 6 speed
Just curious as to what your car runs now...and with what mods?
I too have an 89 GTA 350 and are in search of the elusive 12s
As it stands now I run 13.5-13.7 any day of the week with a best of 13.34@103 MPH
Mods:
Vortec heads, SDPC TPI Base, stock runners, plenum and TB
Stock Cam, 1.6 RRs, 24lb SVO injectors
SLP CAI, TES Headers, full exhaust
Corvette TC, Updated 700r4
boxed LCAs, Panhard, TQ Arm, LCA Relocation Brackets
DIY Prom based on ARAP
That's pretty much it. 2005 will see the installation of a LT4 HC, SLP runners and 9.5" TC...2005 will see 12s easily when finished.
I too have an 89 GTA 350 and are in search of the elusive 12s
As it stands now I run 13.5-13.7 any day of the week with a best of 13.34@103 MPH
Mods:
Vortec heads, SDPC TPI Base, stock runners, plenum and TB
Stock Cam, 1.6 RRs, 24lb SVO injectors
SLP CAI, TES Headers, full exhaust
Corvette TC, Updated 700r4
boxed LCAs, Panhard, TQ Arm, LCA Relocation Brackets
DIY Prom based on ARAP
That's pretty much it. 2005 will see the installation of a LT4 HC, SLP runners and 9.5" TC...2005 will see 12s easily when finished.
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 14
From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
I'll let you know after January 22 on how my car runs. Before the latest round of mods I was running 13.8 at 102. I just had the car dyno'd and it put down 283RWHP@ 5000rpm and 311RWTQ@4650rpm. The graph started out at 4200rpm so I don't know what is going on below that mark. I'm sure the torque is higher. Works out to 354HP and 389TQ at the engine with what I know. This is with the airfilter on and everything. Just drove it in off the street and put it on the dyno. I did put in some 100 octane so I would not get any knock.
I need to lean out the WOT mixture and then play with the timing to see what is best. Right now I'm at 29 degrees for starters. After the January 22 baseline run I'm going to "fully" modify my SLP runners. I estimate the total weight at the track to be 3800 pounds with me weighing 250 pounds. I also expect my new time to be in the 13.2 to 13.3 range and about 104-105 MPH. Now if the car weighed 3400 pounds and I had a manual transmission I would most likely be in the high 12 seconds. However it doesn't so it will take a little more work to see the 12's. These fully loaded GTA's with T-Tops weigh the most of the 3rd gens.
Allen
I need to lean out the WOT mixture and then play with the timing to see what is best. Right now I'm at 29 degrees for starters. After the January 22 baseline run I'm going to "fully" modify my SLP runners. I estimate the total weight at the track to be 3800 pounds with me weighing 250 pounds. I also expect my new time to be in the 13.2 to 13.3 range and about 104-105 MPH. Now if the car weighed 3400 pounds and I had a manual transmission I would most likely be in the high 12 seconds. However it doesn't so it will take a little more work to see the 12's. These fully loaded GTA's with T-Tops weigh the most of the 3rd gens.
Allen Last edited by 1989GTATransAm; Dec 27, 2004 at 10:44 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 381
Likes: 1
From: Bement IL, Champaign,IL
Car: 1985 IROC-Z Silver
Engine: Vortec 5.7L
Transmission: WC-T5
Axle/Gears: 3.23 disc brake 10 bolt
Poncho, Corvette TQ ?
Hey Poncho, How do you like your corvette TQ? What does it stall to with your combo? Foot brake stall? Thanx. Sorry to get off topic, but it has to do with me gettin' bottom 13's, high 12's.
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
From: Laval, Canada
Car: 2004 BMW 330Cic
Engine: 3.0
Transmission: 6 speed
only stalls to about 1700...actually I like it alot, great stock like street torque convertor, but only a marginal improvement over my stock one.
If I had to change one and wanted to maintain all stock charaterstics this would be my choice, but for better track performance I plan on moving to a 9.5" in the future
If I had to change one and wanted to maintain all stock charaterstics this would be my choice, but for better track performance I plan on moving to a 9.5" in the future
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