Long story short. I got my bird, and bought a 383 for it. Let my friend install it cause I don't have the time or place to do it my self.

Anyways, he finally got it together and started it, and he said it sounds like the valves are floating. I'm gonna go by tomorrow and check it out. I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts?

Everything is stock but the long block. And it was running ok before the swap. (it was just overheating, probably due to a blown head gasket, and leaking freeze plugs all over)

 

Why not wait until you get there and post up first hand knowledge of the situation rather than second hand info. That never works well.

 

I can't wait. I'd like to go into the situation with some forehand info. Also, if some one else has had this problem, or some info, then that would be great. And I can always add to this thread if I need to, right?

 

There's really not enough info here for us to work with. A couple of questions though.
Is this a new engine?
If it's used, did you get some kind of agreement in case of startup failure?
Valve lash may need to be tweaked, but doesn't cause valve float it only compounds it, valve float usaully only occurs when revving the engine beyond the valve train's specifications.
If new I assume you bought it assembled with intake and heads, pre-run, and maybe even dynoed? If pre-run then valve float is out of the question.
Unless your fiend is responsible for the malfunction I'd suggested calling the dealer before doing anything else.
Look at your warranty, most provide the dealer with reasonable time, and opporunity to repair, or replace, which means you have to return it to the place of purchase, or to an authorized repair shop.
I only exeprienced valve float once when I pushed my engine passed the redline which isn't much for a stock engine, luckily I'd didn't blow the dam thing up!