Ok... i recently purchased a 91 z28 which was a 305/5spd. I went ahead and swapped in my 355/700R4. The mods are as follows

355
zz4 cam
World Product S/R tourquer heads
2.20/1.60" valves
.125" dome hyper pistons
GM rods
GM crank
r45ts ac delco plugs
edelbrock tps headers
3" catback
2400 stall

Well, we swapped all of that into the car bought a 350/700R4 Stock Prom. As well as a new o2, and a knock sensor (havent put that in yet). My main problem is the fact that the car idles really really rough, as in not right rough. None of the wires are arching or anything. Ive adjusted the IAC and TPS, I also had my father bring home a TECH 2 and took a look at it. As of right now i have stock 88 iroc z injectors (21lb i think). The tps reads about .55 volts. The idle is roughly about 675-700 rpm. The weirdest part is according to the fuel trim, the car is running rich. I dont see it running rich with those injectors and my combination, but whatever... Any ideas? Injectors? Anything i forgot to tell?

 

What is the fuel pressure set to?

 

Also what is the timing set to? How old are the EGR vaccum selenoid and the EGR itself?

 

ill check that tomorrow and let you know

 

and timing is at 6* initial

 

Put the knock sensor in and get it out of the "limp home mode" unless you meant switching to the 350 KS.. Then disreguard that.

Also if you blm's are in the 90's it's not running rich. BLM's more or less telling you if the puter is adding or taking awy fuel. From what I gathered when the BLM's are down in the 90's it means the car is running lean and the puter is adding fuel to compensate for it being lean.

So with that, get a prom burner and start buring chips

Kat

 

well the fuel trim is right at about 108

 

Need more fuel then. It "should" be arround 128.

Kat

 

also what do you mean by the knock sensor... right now the 305 knock sensor is in the car and hooked up. im just saying i have the 350 one in the garage

 

Ahh I thought that you meant that you didn't have the KS installed, thats all.

Kat

 

Don't do any thing else until you get a chip burned for the combo. You have a Speed Density(MAP) system. It is sensitive to mods unlike MAF cars.

Why in the hell you didn't leave the T5 trans in the car?

 

vincent, we took the t-5 out, cause i destroyed the clutch, and didnt have the money to buy one, plus i had a great auto sitting there, and i didnt want to end up buying a good clutch then breaking the trans

 

ok supposedbly what the tech 2 reads is what the comp is trying to do. so when it says 108, is what the computer is trying to get it down to, in other words it is running rich, and it is trying to lean it out, but can only do so much... ill pull a plug out tomorrow when shes colder and see what those look like

 

Will you be ready to race me again?

 

ill run you with the chrysler its only a 18 foot tuna barge

 

Are you scared that I might beat you again?

 

im not scared... i know you will, the funny part is you have a 12 second car, and you always run these 13/14 second cars. why wont you run someone/something that can or possibly beat you? When was the last time youve ran randy?

 

It's been awhile but the last time we race I beat him too. NOW WHAT? Get a chip burned first before you go racing. There are some local people on the Southern Cali board that can do it for you. Then come see me!

 

randy said he would do it for me, we just need to get the cable from someone. Im still planning on going the 26th, just to see what it can do. The car also has 3.08's which wont help me either

 

You should go with 3.42 gears with that torque motor.

 

i was actually planning on 3.73's

 

im only gonna be on street tires the next time out so...

 

Yes I have to get chips made for a few members here actually. I promised to also get one together for Nigel based on the help he has already received from Don and Kevin. I am looking forward to getting the IROC out to Fontana again this season but Donna and I both have started up in a different kind of racing and are in a season of that racing that goes through the entire year, couple that with working at least about 60 hours a week and I have been having trouble finding the time to get everything done.

 

Okay I have to take some of the heat for this as I kind of pushed Steve to get rid of the T-5 and go with the auto. The major reasons were that he would be more consistent with the Auto, plus his Dad is great at working on Auto Trannies, and since he was able to trade the T-5 for a brand new higher stall (not quite high enough for me but higher than stock) I figure that will help him get better times. But to put things in perspective how many of us had our cars together well enough when we were Steve's age to actually go drag racing?

P.S. I also thought that it would be smarter to learn from the mistakes of others that a 355 and a T-5 just don't mix, even a WCT-5

Oh and BTW Steve sucks at driving stick

 

hey hey hey... did you really have to go that low? Im mediokire (sp?)
Btw we think we found the problem, its pulling almost 80 psi of fuel pressure with it keyed up, and with it running it bounces off of 100! there is no fuel in the return line, so were taking it apart to find that gremlin, hopefully that will help out a lot

 

regulator probably rusted shut, or the return line has a really really good kink.
BTW, BLM's at 108 means it was running rich (as opposed to what Kat was saying), obviously you found the problem. 128 would mean the calibration is correct, 108 means the computer removed 20 to try to get to a stoichiometric air fuel ratio, but that wasn't enough, because of the insane fuel pressure.