I am on a college student budget here but I can always use a few more ponies. What is the most efficient upgrade i should get next for my car. Looking for something under 200 bucks. Thanks.

 

Headers!

 

Underdrive pulleys.

 

I was thinking of both of those. But i think when i do the headers i'm gonna go all out and do the full dual exhaust. So i think headers are out of the question for now. Any other suggestions? I was thinking short throw shifter or maybe SFC's?

 

i went to home depot, and got parts to make my own CAI.. definatley feel the difference in the Butt Dyno.. total cost including the 6" K&N cone filter was 60$..

 

He already has a K&N...


Underdrive Crank Pulley only...

Its like
$50 plus new belt ($25)

Ok mod for the money....

 

Yes i have a K&N in the stock location but have been thinking of modifying it into a CAI style. What about the crank pulley only? Why not go with the full set except for the money?

 

the pulley's are a good idea.. you can get the March ones for 99$ at summit.. get the crank and alternator.. they make them to work with one another other wise the alt could suffer.. i know because i did just the crank and destroyed an alt.. you dont loose any charge so dont worry about it.


i already knew he had drop filters.. but drop filters pale in comparision to a huge cone.. the stock intake system is a restriction. if you bought the pulleys and did the charge air cooler.. you would feel a nice difference in throttle response.

also you could get an aluminum drive shaft for 120$

just idea's.. are you looking for performance or handling?

 

That's what i have been trying to balance out. Not sure what i would rather have. Performance is always good to have but it is my daily driver minus winters so handling would be a nice upgrade? I think i am looking more for performance though.

 

or you could save the dough.. and save for a edlebrock base intake and some runners..

but if you're like me.. money burns a hole in my pocket..

 

yeah that's not gonna happen right now. PLus i just polished my runners this winter. I can't replace them already.

 

DO NOT get the alternator pulley....I thought the same thing,I have a stock electrical and sound system and thought everything would be ok.I was nearly stalling at red lights because the voltage was so low.Big strain on the battery and alternator and decided to ditch it.I'd recommend just the crank pulley from ASP.

 

then you already had low voltage in your battery... ive got the stock alt.. from 92.. and been running the alt pulley for 2.5 years.. with NO problems.. they work.. just everything else better be working as well..


just an FYI.. stock volt meter suck at giving accurate reading.. right now mine reads 14.5 but if you really check it.. its 13


also if you are using stereo equipment that is a drain on the battery.. yeah your going to have issues with it.

 

maybe you were like me and got the performance series instead of the power and amp series. The performance series gave me charging problems - at night with the headlights and everything on the car would shut off, switch to the power and amp series (just smaller alt pulley) never had a problem again.

-Jim

 

were could i get the affore mentioned aluminum drive shaft???

 

ebay.. got mine for 92$ plus shipping.. or try a 4th gen salvage yard..

such as billygrahams in AL

 

nah, I'd say sfc's. Not much in the extra ponies dept, but it will help you a lot. Or headers, but you already said no to that.. How about a cam, if you can install it yourself?

 

Thanks for the info killjoy, do you know of any strictly f body salvage yards in Colorado, I searched but came up empty handed, any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

 

Hey!

What gear are you running? If you change from a 3:08 to a 3:42 for exemple, it will make a noticable difference...

 

yeah i have stock gears but i think for now i will keep the stock gears for fuel economy.

 

You're running a 5-Speed, swapping to 3.42 gears, from 3.08, won't make that much of a significant difference in gas consumation...

If I were you though, I'd go with a cam, then port match the intake, plenum and runners. Get yourself a used (but good) cam, then grab yourself an AFPR (and up the fuel pressure). You could probably find both (used cam, and AFPR) for under $200.00 total, if you do you're homework...

 

already have the AFPR. How hard to install new cam?

 

If you're fairly new to swapping cam's, you might want to install a set of 1.6 rocker arms instead.... it's much less of a headache.

The reason why I would go with a cam, then port match the entire valvetrain, is because you can buy yourself the biggest cold air induction kit in the world... but it won't do a damn of good if you're intake system is already severely limited.

Only so much air can squeeze through you're stock MAF, TB, Plenum, Runners, Intake... then finally the heads, with a 'giant' CAI set-up in front of the engine.

But a good porting job, and good cam, will make sure that whatever air does get into you're engine, it'll be sure to use it to it's fullest potenial.

If you're on a budget, save you're money.... as true power can only be found in the valvetrain (you're K&N filter's will finally serve their purpose, so keep them).

 

I don't think i want to go that far with this engine. I will build up a 350 when i get it and put that in there. For now i'm just looking for small easy and cheap upgrades that will help the 350 out when i do get it.

 

If you don't want to go that deep, but still want to feel a difference in the 305 (while building a 350), go with some gears. An exhaust, or CAI will not get you out of the hole quicker than a set of gears will...

 

yeah i will get the gears soon but the CAI is cheaper. So I'll prolly go with that for starters.

 

Sub-frame connectors. By far.

 

just so you know... ahead of time.. if you've never installed a set of gears.. you really REALLY need someone with you who has.. you dont want to set the pinion depth wrong..

also a set of gears, you need to get the install kit.. wich is 100$ or 79$ depending on what you get with it..

if you pay someone to install it.. you're looking at a 250-400$ job in labor..

basically EVERYTHING from the rear has to come off.. wheels, calipers(or drums if you have them) axels, posi(if you have it) ect.


guys gears is a good idea.. but you're forgetting 200$ is his limit for everything..

i still have 3:23's in mine.. bought a set of NEW GM 3:42's for 125$.. still need the install kit, then pay someone to do it.. im not messing with this..never done it..



to answer your other question.. i know there is another 4thgen yard only in Northern CA.. in Colorado i highly doubt it.. the biggest one is BillyGrahams.. there is also a guy on Ebay, i want to say his name is pick_Apart.. or something.. they have A LOT of 4th gens.. i beleive they are in PA.. thats who i got my drive shaft from. i'll reseach the name for you and post it here.

 

yeah his Ebay name is Pick_A_part, there is also another guy here in CA, 4thgen dismanteler.. ebay name is edemerson

ive bought several parts from bother guys, very cheap, and fast shipping from both..

 

I totally agree. But, remember, this is the hobby that we've (he's) chosen, and thus he has to learn somehow. Personally, I would never let anyone work on my car... unless I knew them, and their work, very well.

Yes, he won't be able to get it right his first time without assistance, but, this is how he'll learn. I'm sure he won't be willing to do such a swap right 'now', but to dismiss the concept too quickly is a mistake. If he stepped up to 3.55 gears... he will feel it much more than a CAI, or exhaust (combined), and his mpg will not suffer much.

If he put's it off for another month, he'll have more than enough (and it'll be well worth the wait, believe me, TrueBurton)....

KillJoy, over 1,000 posts in just two months? Sweet!

 

Thanks for the input guys... My brother is a mechanic so he would be helping me with the install of the gears but i'm not gonna do that until next year prolly. I'm gonna go with 3.42 gears FYI.

 

FYI??

Good choice though. I have a habit of thinking long term, and the reason why I'd go with 3.55's over 3.42's (there isn't a noticeable difference in mpg with a 5-speed, believe me)... is if you ever decided to swap in a 6-speed.

But, 3.42's are a great choice. I had them with my old 700R4, with TCI stall, and she launched extremely well. Good luck whichever way you go bro!