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Which Roller Rockers for my car?

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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 08:05 PM
  #1  
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Which Roller Rockers for my car?

OK--need some help. I have done several searches and read a couple hundred posts/threads until I can't see straight anymore. (then read a few more)

For my car (see mods below PLEASE) 89 L-98, what are my choices for self aligning steel full roller rockers. (NOT just roller tips!) I know it is better to use guide plates and will when I rebuild the engine later down the road, I will

I know Comp Cam makes some--any others?
Does Crane make SA steel rollers?

I was told that there might be a valve cover clearance problem?
Need to use different length pushrods?
Is there anything that I need to be aware of?

I have also been wondering about using 1:6 ratio, but have been told that my car/engine will not run as good because they will flow more than the heads are capable of and the turbulance will actually slow it down?

Can some of U experts straighten me out and educate me

Thanks
Craig
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 09:02 PM
  #2  
Vettefan87's Avatar
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From: Northern IN
Car: 1987 Corvette
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
I just got Harlan Sharp 1.6 RR's installed on my 87 vette. All I can say is it runs better then it did before I put them on, as far as I can tell. The only clearence problem is with the ridges on the stock centerbolt valve covers, you have to grind them down a little, and you are good to go. I got my Harlan Sharps from Jegs they were about 200 plus shipping. I am not sure what the part number is off the top of my head. Good luck.


Justin
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #3  
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
OK--I see after searching Summit that the only steel full rollers are Comp Cams Pro Magnums.

I have been told that aluminum rockers lose their integrity after a while. How much? I mean if I get aluminum (good ones such as the Crane gold or Comp Cam Pro Mag), am i going to regret it down the line. my car is not a daily driver, but it is driven on the street everyday, sometime a couple miles, sometimes 30/40 miles.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 10:32 PM
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From: San Lorenzo, California
Car: 1987 Firebird Trans AM
Engine: 383 TPI...very soon
Transmission: TH700R4
I went with the Comp Cams Pro Magnums just because I was afraid of the aluminum rockers fatigueing and breaking on me... On the other hand, my car is going to be my daily driver.

I think I recall reading in two places that someone had aluminum rockers break around 30-40 thousand miles... but then I have also read of some people saying that they have over 50k on them, and they are fine... I think it depends on the spring pressures and how aggressive the camshaft is.

As far as 1.6 rockers... my engine builder told me that I should try and steer clear of them if possible, he said if you want more lift, get a bigger cam. He said the 1.6's can cause more wear on the valve stem tip, since they have to travel slightly farther, they also seem to cause more interference problems, since the pushrods will travel farther back and forth through the lift cycles. I therefore changed my mind about 1.6's and got the 1.52's.

Last edited by TheMysticWizard; Apr 27, 2005 at 10:40 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 10:40 PM
  #5  
Zap Racing's Avatar
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
OK after talking to a local TGO member.......he has comvinced me to go with the Comp Cams Pro Mag steel self aligning roller rockers.

But I still have one concern--is there a clearance issue with the centerbolt valve covers? If so, what has to be done for them to fit? Are there any aftermarket center bolt valve covers that will bolt on?
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 10:44 PM
  #6  
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From: San Lorenzo, California
Car: 1987 Firebird Trans AM
Engine: 383 TPI...very soon
Transmission: TH700R4
Are you planning on buying them right now, or in a week or so?

I have yet to put my valve covers over them, but I will probably do so before next week, then I will know for sure how they fit. I am planning on using my stock covers since I heard they only take very minimal modification to fit... but if I run into any big problems, I am going to get me a set of the Taller Centerbolts off eBay. I have seen some nice sets for about 80 + s/h. But if the stockers work, then I will just be using those (they have been stripped, and will be painted shortly) I'd rather save the 80 bux and spend it elsewhere, plus I'm not going after the chrome/polished/bling bling look on my engine, so far the only chrome I have is my timing cover and my headers. The heads are aluminum... otherwise runners, oil pan, plenum, intake, and block are "Cast Grey" or "Gunmetal"
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 11:59 PM
  #7  
Vettefan87's Avatar
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From: Northern IN
Car: 1987 Corvette
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
With my 1.6's if they are the same valve covers as mine I had to grind some of the ridge off on the inside of the valve cover, if you don't they will scrap them.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 05:46 AM
  #8  
TunedPort 335's Avatar
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From: Paxton, MA
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28
Engine: 335 TPI Stroker
Transmission: Tremec TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt / 3.42
I just installed the Summit Racing 1.5 full roller rockers on my car. They are made by Trick Flow.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 07:12 AM
  #9  
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From: ILL
Car: 1986 Pontiac TA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
If you want to see some gain, go with the 1.6 rockers. Go will get the benefit of added lift and slightly longer duration. Upgrading to 1.6rr's is a proven performance improvement!

I do not know what else you've done to your motor but combining the RR's with some improvement on the intake side like free flowing air filter, plenum modification and maybe an air foil will all compliment. Catback exhaust does not hurt as well as bumping timing another 2-4 degrees.

I highly recommend Comp Pro Magnum. I use them on my 406.

www.geocities.com/dzperf
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 08:27 AM
  #10  
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by TheMysticWizard
Are you planning on buying them right now, or in a week or so?

I have yet to put my valve covers over them, but I will probably do so before next week, then I will know for sure how they fit. I am planning on using my stock covers since I heard they only take very minimal modification to fit... but if I run into any big problems, I am going to get me a set of the Taller Centerbolts off eBay. I have seen some nice sets for about 80 + s/h. But if the stockers work, then I will just be using those (they have been stripped, and will be painted shortly) I'd rather save the 80 bux and spend it elsewhere, plus I'm not going after the chrome/polished/bling bling look on my engine, so far the only chrome I have is my timing cover and my headers. The heads are aluminum... otherwise runners, oil pan, plenum, intake, and block are "Cast Grey" or "Gunmetal"
Probably not for a few days yet--still have to pull intake to check to see if anything else was damage when one of the Proform roller tips rocker broke. (The whole bottom of the rocker broke out.)

YES-please post and let me know- pics of what needs modified would be way cool if possible!

Thanks for your response!
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 08:31 AM
  #11  
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by Vettefan87
With my 1.6's if they are the same valve covers as mine I had to grind some of the ridge off on the inside of the valve cover, if you don't they will scrap them.
Thanks for your response!

As far as I know, they are the OEM valve covers. Are you talking about the cross supports or the inside edge of the outer shell?

Wouldn't happen to have any pics do U?

Craig
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 08:38 AM
  #12  
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by HiTech5
If you want to see some gain, go with the 1.6 rockers. Go will get the benefit of added lift and slightly longer duration. Upgrading to 1.6rr's is a proven performance improvement!

I do not know what else you've done to your motor but combining the RR's with some improvement on the intake side like free flowing air filter, plenum modification and maybe an air foil will all compliment. Catback exhaust does not hurt as well as bumping timing another 2-4 degrees.

I highly recommend Comp Pro Magnum. I use them on my 406.

www.geocities.com/dzperf
Thanks for your response.

Please see mods in sig below.

I have been told (and read) that 1.6 rockers used with the parts I currently have in p;ace will actually make the car/engine run worsr, because the heads can't flow the extra air--will cause turbulance. As well, even though I do have some Comp Cam springs (installed by previous owner), I am not sure which ones they are and if they will handle the extra lift.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 11:21 AM
  #13  
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From: Seattle
Car: Which one?
Engine: 355
Transmission: 465
I've got the CC Pro Magnums on my Vortec heads, 1.5's.

Used the stock valve covers, only issue is the supports for the bolt to hold the covers down. Not the tube itself, those metal braces that run side to side. The rocker trunnion is the only problem, so you only have to grind the lowest part of that brace, because it is bent over by GM for strength. Grind off that bent section where the trunnion sits and they will fit.

If they rub anywhere else (PCV/breather baffles) on install, it doesn't matter, as the rocker trunnion doesn't move, and that is the widest piece of the rocker.

I have pics of the valve covers, but I hadn't removed the metal yet. Took probably ten minutes with a carbide burr to remove enough metal.

Bottom of page Probably take awhile to load, if link doesn't work, I reached my daily bandwidth limit already. But you can see from the pics of the rockers installed that the trunnions are the only "tight spot".
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 12:57 PM
  #14  
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From: ILL
Car: 1986 Pontiac TA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
I did not read the bottom of your post and see that you had a
ZZ-9 cam. You have probably been given good info on the extra lift. Did you have the heads flowed after the porting?

Definately full rollers though.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 01:33 PM
  #15  
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by dyeager535
I've got the CC Pro Magnums on my Vortec heads, 1.5's.

Used the stock valve covers, only issue is the supports for the bolt to hold the covers down. Not the tube itself, those metal braces that run side to side. The rocker trunnion is the only problem, so you only have to grind the lowest part of that brace, because it is bent over by GM for strength. Grind off that bent section where the trunnion sits and they will fit.

If they rub anywhere else (PCV/breather baffles) on install, it doesn't matter, as the rocker trunnion doesn't move, and that is the widest piece of the rocker.

I have pics of the valve covers, but I hadn't removed the metal yet. Took probably ten minutes with a carbide burr to remove enough metal.

Bottom of page Probably take awhile to load, if link doesn't work, I reached my daily bandwidth limit already. But you can see from the pics of the rockers installed that the trunnions are the only "tight spot".
Cool--thanks for the good info!--Appreciate it!!!!!!!!!
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 01:36 PM
  #16  
Zap Racing's Avatar
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by HiTech5
I did not read the bottom of your post and see that you had a
ZZ-9 cam. You have probably been given good info on the extra lift. Did you have the heads flowed after the porting?

Definately full rollers though.
Did not have them flowed--didn't want to waste the extra money since they were just iron heads--and I am going to go with some AFR's--when I get the money together--also going for complete motorrebuild/upgrade.

The only down side to all this is that when I do the comlete job, I'll probably go up to 1:6's, so the 1:5's are "temporary" at best!
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 01:58 PM
  #17  
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Why not just get some good springs and the 1.6's now and save the $$ down the road of replacing them?
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 02:07 PM
  #18  
Zap Racing's Avatar
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Cause it might be a while before I actually get the AFR's, and if going to 1.6's will make my car run worse because of turbulance caused by increased flow/lift, I'll live with the situation as is.

Never want to go slower!
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Old May 2, 2005 | 11:27 PM
  #19  
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From: San Lorenzo, California
Car: 1987 Firebird Trans AM
Engine: 383 TPI...very soon
Transmission: TH700R4
So on my AFR 195's with Comp Pro Magnum Full Rollers, the stock covers wouldn't fit... in stock form.

I looked them over, decided to gut them, and ruined one of them in the process... Pulled a hole right through the cover at one of the tack welds where the support meets the side of the valve cover.

Oh well, I been looking for an excuse to get new ones, plus I don't think the paint would have held up so well on the stockers. So, off to buy some valve covers soon, I have my eyes on a set of Ball Milled Polished Tall Aluminum Centerbolts on eBay for $66.00.

Everything else is new, so might as well have nice new valve covers too.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 09:26 AM
  #20  
Zap Racing's Avatar
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by TheMysticWizard
So on my AFR 195's with Comp Pro Magnum Full Rollers, the stock covers wouldn't fit... in stock form.

I looked them over, decided to gut them, and ruined one of them in the process... Pulled a hole right through the cover at one of the tack welds where the support meets the side of the valve cover.

Oh well, I been looking for an excuse to get new ones, plus I don't think the paint would have held up so well on the stockers. So, off to buy some valve covers soon, I have my eyes on a set of Ball Milled Polished Tall Aluminum Centerbolts on eBay for $66.00.

Everything else is new, so might as well have nice new valve covers too.
Post an address/link so we can see which ones U get?
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Old May 7, 2005 | 06:16 PM
  #21  
Zap Racing's Avatar
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by dyeager535
I've got the CC Pro Magnums on my Vortec heads, 1.5's.

Used the stock valve covers, only issue is the supports for the bolt to hold the covers down. Not the tube itself, those metal braces that run side to side. The rocker trunnion is the only problem, so you only have to grind the lowest part of that brace, because it is bent over by GM for strength. Grind off that bent section where the trunnion sits and they will fit.

If they rub anywhere else (PCV/breather baffles) on install, it doesn't matter, as the rocker trunnion doesn't move, and that is the widest piece of the rocker.

I have pics of the valve covers, but I hadn't removed the metal yet. Took probably ten minutes with a carbide burr to remove enough metal.

Bottom of page Probably take awhile to load, if link doesn't work, I reached my daily bandwidth limit already. But you can see from the pics of the rockers installed that the trunnions are the only "tight spot".
Ok, I got the Comp Cam Pro Mag 1:52 steel rollers and as U said I am having some clearance problems. Couple questions.

I understand about grinding the parts of the cross bracing to fit down in between the rockers--just to confirm--only the lower areas?--the upper parts will clear?

What about the baffles? U said:
"If they rub anywhere else (PCV/breather baffles) on install, it doesn't matter, as the rocker trunnion doesn't move, and that is the widest piece of the rocker"
In measuring the area between the rockers compared to the baffles, it is way shy of having enough room to fit down in that pocket. Can they/should they be ground for clearance, just squeezed together with some big pliars, eliminated, or what?

Even if eliminating them is NOT what I want to do, what would happen if they were eliminated? Cause any bad results/side effects?

Thanks for any help. The IROC is my daily driver and right now I am not able to daily drive it!

Did u ever actually get yours finished and bolted on? Any pics?
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Old May 8, 2005 | 07:34 PM
  #22  
Zap Racing's Avatar
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Answer from another thread!

http://www.hotss.com/Members/scott_vaca/pro-mag.htm
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Old May 8, 2005 | 09:13 PM
  #23  
Zap Racing's Avatar
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From: Houston Texas
Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Done Deal!

Extremely easy when U know what to do! Took less than an hour to modify valve covers!

Thanks Again everybody!

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Old May 9, 2005 | 11:11 AM
  #24  
dyeager535's Avatar
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From: Seattle
Car: Which one?
Engine: 355
Transmission: 465
Nice that someone has pictures.

My valve covers look the same as the ones in the article, but I didn't mess with the baffles. Tight fit, have to push on the valve covers a bit, but they seal up fine. Looks like modifying them is simple enough though.
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