Help with a 350? Rough Idle.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Car: 1988 Camaro - 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 - 350TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 700R4 w/shift kit
Help with a 350? Rough Idle.
I tried searching, but couldn't find anyone with the same problem as I have. I just bought my second third gen, a 1987 IROC-Z two days ago, yesterday I got a new MAF sensor, and did an oil change.
It runs and drives fine when first started, then when it starts to warm up.. It will idle rough at a stop, then go back to normal, and keep doing that. Sometimes it will die, sometimes not.
According to my fuel pressure gauge, I have none at idle. And very little at even 60MPH. Once it's warm, and you step on the gas to try and pass someone, or anything, it accelerates very slowly, and rough. Please help?
I'm 16, and know some things about third gens, but still learning. This is something I deffinatly can't figure out on my own, anyone care to give their opinion?
It runs and drives fine when first started, then when it starts to warm up.. It will idle rough at a stop, then go back to normal, and keep doing that. Sometimes it will die, sometimes not.
According to my fuel pressure gauge, I have none at idle. And very little at even 60MPH. Once it's warm, and you step on the gas to try and pass someone, or anything, it accelerates very slowly, and rough. Please help?
I'm 16, and know some things about third gens, but still learning. This is something I deffinatly can't figure out on my own, anyone care to give their opinion?
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 732
Likes: 1
From: waco, tx
Car: 91Z28 L98
Engine: HSR 350
Transmission: Goebel 700R4
When my fuel pump went out in my '86 Iroc, it was either working or not.... it would just cut out and I would have to leave it sit until the pump cooled again. With that said, your symptoms sound like the failing fuel pump on my 2000 Chevy truck... sputtering and almost no power... wanting to die when accelerating. But before you go pulling the gas tank, you might try replacing the fuel filter. Maybe when you take the old one out, you could cut it open or try to drain it (backwards) into a glass jar to see if it was clogged with rust or other debris.
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 313
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1987 Iroc-z
Engine: 355/Edelbrkhds/lpe219cam/MiniRam/
Transmission: 700R4/3.27 9bolt
Check Fuel pump relay too. It is probably fuel pump if your guage isn't holding pressure. By a Haynes manual for your car. Droping the gas tank is a Mother... But if you follow the directions it is a lot easier. It will take you a few hours though.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Car: 1988 Camaro - 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 - 350TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 700R4 w/shift kit
I was 12 when I got my first Camaro. A 1986 RS. My father and I had to drop the tank, to replace the fuel pump. I'd like to stay away from that if at all possible, heh. Wasn't fun, at all.
I've heard of people pulling the carpet in the hatch, and cutting a square to get to it. And then welding it back up later. Good or bad idea? It sounds a bit easier.
I'll check the fuel filter later this weekend, a bit busy. Guess I'll have to drive the '88 for now. Oh well, thank you for replying!
I've heard of people pulling the carpet in the hatch, and cutting a square to get to it. And then welding it back up later. Good or bad idea? It sounds a bit easier.
I'll check the fuel filter later this weekend, a bit busy. Guess I'll have to drive the '88 for now. Oh well, thank you for replying!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 732
Likes: 1
From: waco, tx
Car: 91Z28 L98
Engine: HSR 350
Transmission: Goebel 700R4
I've heard of people pulling the carpet in the hatch, and cutting a square to get to it. And then welding it back up later. Good or bad idea? It sounds a bit easier.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Car: 1988 Camaro - 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 - 350TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 700R4 w/shift kit
Originally posted by iceman02
Uh oh, now you've done it. Thems fightin' words 'round this forum.
Uh oh, now you've done it. Thems fightin' words 'round this forum.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Originally posted by 88Jasper350
Forgive me, I suppose. Just thought I'd ask.
Forgive me, I suppose. Just thought I'd ask.
Here take a look.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Car: 1988 Camaro - 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 - 350TPI
Transmission: 700R4 - 700R4 w/shift kit
Originally posted by rgarcia63
[B]It your car, you have experienced the task, it's your decision.
[B]It your car, you have experienced the task, it's your decision.
jasper,
is it a tpi car? if so, I would check the fuel psi diaphram. That can rupture and cause low fuel psi. I see that your car is infact a tpi. I would start by taking off the top plentum. From there you can easily locate the fuel psi regulator. Once you remove the cover, there is a rubber diaphram under the regulator. In the middle of the rubber diaphram, there is a metal piece with a spring on one side. Gently pull the rubber around one side of the metal piece and search for a tiny tear where the rubber meets the metal...on both sides. you have to look hard, but my guess is that is the problem. I have had similar problems with my Z as you have described is ti was the fuel psi diaphram. I have a supercharged car with an FMU which reaks havic on my fuel diaphram
Good luck and keep us infomed of the results!
is it a tpi car? if so, I would check the fuel psi diaphram. That can rupture and cause low fuel psi. I see that your car is infact a tpi. I would start by taking off the top plentum. From there you can easily locate the fuel psi regulator. Once you remove the cover, there is a rubber diaphram under the regulator. In the middle of the rubber diaphram, there is a metal piece with a spring on one side. Gently pull the rubber around one side of the metal piece and search for a tiny tear where the rubber meets the metal...on both sides. you have to look hard, but my guess is that is the problem. I have had similar problems with my Z as you have described is ti was the fuel psi diaphram. I have a supercharged car with an FMU which reaks havic on my fuel diaphram
Good luck and keep us infomed of the results!
Last edited by IROCBlueZ28; Apr 29, 2005 at 12:07 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 4
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Have you checked to see if fuel is passing through the regulator's vacuum line? That would indicate a tear(s) in the diapham, but if your Guage is working properly, that's one massive leak.
If you have a hand vacuum-pump connect it to the FPR, apply 10in. of vacuum if it doesn't hold you definitely have a leak in the diapham, as Blue has stated.
If you have a hand vacuum-pump connect it to the FPR, apply 10in. of vacuum if it doesn't hold you definitely have a leak in the diapham, as Blue has stated.
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