Anyone else have this issue or am I the only lucky one on the planet? I can not get .54V at the TPS. I also cant do the base idle for the IAC as it will not idle to 450rpms in drive (car has a cam in it, not sure of specs). The car hesitates when stomping on it and will die out most of the time the slower I go or when letting off gas. It will idle mostly. The only other thing is a code 24 (VSS Circuit) that when tripped, car idles higher and stays running but at a higher idle. No other codes though. This issue was around before any of the following attempts to correct it. Here is what I have done:

New TPS
New IAC
New AFPR (50 lbs or so)
New EGR Valve
New MAF
New Distributor (module and pick up coil as well)
New Cap, Rotor, Coil, Wires (All MSD)
New Air filters (K&N)
New gaskets all the way around
Replaced ECU with same
I do get 5.0 V at reference wire (grey one)
Acid washed and boiled TB
Runners and upper plenum washed, boiled and media blasted
Timing set to 8-9 BTDC
Tested fuel injectors (16.9 Ohms resistance avg each)
No vacuum leaks (goes to 0 when revved-up)
Chassis ground strap seems intact


I can not connect to the computer(no communications) for some reason (no 10k resistor maybe?) using Actron/ Sunpro scanner to get any other idea of what is going on. I do have winaldl but no cable as of yet.

What do you all think?


Chris

 

Fix the VSS problem, ECM is getting conflicting signals to whether the car is moving, or idling, so it tries to stall when you let off the gas.

Scanner Software
I had no luck getting mine to communicate either, I was beginning to think that the cable has to have a hardware key (dongle) to allow the sofware to connect. Turbolink says that you can have their software free, and it's true, I've downloaded it, but it just won't connect to my ECM, and I know there's an active signal from the ECM. Try buying just the cable and it'll still cost you the full price of the kit ($295.00.) None of the other scanning software has faired any better, but of course I don't have their cable.

If someone has a combo (software/DIY cable) that works, sure would like to know what you have.

 

Yes, maybe but when the VSS circuit trips, it idles high like it thinks it is still driving. When the light is off, that is when it dies.


The scanner software should work with the winaldl program and a cable. I did a search for aldl and it seems that certain ECU's need a 10k resistor inline to get it to start communicating. Have not got the cable yet to try.

 

Please clarify,

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Isn't scanner software, and WinALDL program the same thing?

 

Yes, sorry to say a stupid thing............winaldl works for most. At least that is what I read.

 

What voltage do you get and how are you checking it.

Jerry

 

It is around 5.0 V at the grey wire while the black is used as ground. At the Blue wire is where the switched voltage is at. I am using a digital tester with black on the black wire and red on the grey and blue.

 

Whow...... Red flag going up here.......You are supposed to have the black wire going to the (-) on the battery and the blue or grey going to the (+) on the battery. The (-) lead of the tester will go to the (-) of the battery, the (+) lead of the tester will go to whichever one is the sensor wire (blue or grey). Then you use the position of the TPS to change voltage readings.

 

Yeah, I am doing that. The grey wire is the reference at 5.0V and the Blue is variable with the position of the TPS. I know that. What is happening is that even with the TPS twisted all the way back, still no .54V. Only .38 max................



Chris

 

If "twisted all the way back," means WOT then, you should be reading about 4.5v, not 0.38v.
I believe you're measuring the voltage at the proper terminals (B & C.) If so your new TPS is bad.
Lets us know.

 

.

 

Twisted I mean in the idle position, I must turn the entire TPS counter-clockwise till it stops at the mounting bolts and fasten it down at that point. Normally, the set ups I have seen have the TPS basically facing straight up and down not cocked like mine

 

On my TPI the TPS is mounted on the passenger side of the TB, and the connector faces the front of car.
A new TPS in the box will read minimum scale because the internal spring is holding the wiper arm in the full counter-clockwise position (IDLE,) which is the position shown in the attached image.
The TPS should be initially centered in the screw slots as shown.
If the TB minimum air rate has been set correctly the TPS tang should make contact with the TB arm, if not first bend the TPS wiper arm tang so that it does then check the TPS idle voltage and rotate the TPS accordingly.

 

Exactly. When centered, it only reads .12V. Then, I rotate it counter-clockwise all the way till it hits the limits in the mounting holes. There it reads about .38V.

 

That's why getting a reading close to 0.54v when centered is desirable so that you don't hit the adjustment limits.

When centered are the tb arm, and TPS arm tang touching? even if they are, bend the tang up so that the centered reading is higher than 0.12v, at least 0.3, or 0.4, then rotate adjust for 0.54v.

 

FYI, I did that. Not much difference at all but it now is at .54V. Thanks for the advice,

Chris