These are probably stupid questions, but here goes:

1.
For the upper runners to the plenum and the throttle body to the plenum, do I need to put some type of adhesive on before applying the gaskets and then bolting them together?

2.
Am I supposed to tighten the plenum to runner bolts in some special order or pattern?

3.
Can I just tighten the bolts down as hard as possible or do I need to torque them to a specific range?

4.
Finally, do I have to use lock-tight?

 

Good questions.
For # 1 . No you dont need to put any sealer or silicone of any type just the gaskets.

2 & 3 - After you have the manifold on, place bothe runners in place and just get the bolts started half way. then drop the plenum on and finger tighten those bolts as well untill everything gets lined up, then start from the middle of the intake and work your way out only after every single bolt is in place.
One of the main reasons torx bolts are used is to keep you from over tightening them remeber all you are doing is keeping an air tight seal against a gasket and soft thin aluminum 20 ft lbs is probaly enough if you dont have a torque wrench it would probaly be a 1/4 turn once the bolt is just a little snug.

4. no lock tight

 

No LocTite, or any kind of anerobic sealant or threadlocker. However, since you are installing steel fasteners into aluminum holes, I would STRONGLY suggest you apply a coating of anti-seize compound to the bolt threads.

As for the final torque pattern, lacking any specified pattern, it is generally good practice to start from the innermost fgasteners and alternately work outward (toward the ends) on any assembly of a flat, gasketed joint. This can prevent binding and deformation of the gasket, or stresses being imparted on the assembly by "walking" the assembly inward toward the loose fasteners.

The torque specification is easy. 18ft/lb is a safe number for all TPI bolts. Some of the ranges are 18-21 ft/lb, 18 ft/lb, or 15-20 ft/b. Therefore, using 18 ft/lb is a safe, easy to remember specification for all the base/head bolts, runner/base bolts, plenum/runner bolts, and TB bolts.

 

You guys are life savers! Thank you.

 

that's probably some of the best advice I've heard! If you forget to do it this way, it'll only take you once to remember for next time!

 

Yes using anti seize is a excellent decision to help prevent the steel bolts from damaging the soft aluminum threads the next time the bolts are removed.
When aluminum oxidizes onto steel they form a bond together after time especially after being heated and cooled over an extended period of time. Usually when you remove the steel bolts small pieces of aluminum get ripped off out of the threads anti seize prevents this.

 

Awesome, thanks. I'll go get some anti-seize.

One thing though, I haven't taken the runners off; the runners are actually securely fastened at the bottom. I've only taken the Plenum off. The reason is that I have after market heads and rockers, so I had to get taller valve covers, which also cover up where the bottom bolts to the runners are.

I just gotta be careful that the runner gaskets don't move or walk when I'm putting the plenum on. That’ll be tricky. Any suggestions?

 

Remove the valve covers, and the runners, and check for cracks on the runner intake flanges, forcing the runners apart to remove the plenum may have cracked the bottom flanges, the cracks will be small, but will grow over time with torgue/heat & cold expansion stress.
If the bottom bolts aren't loosened or removed, little force is needed to remove the pl;enum if the gaskets are pried away from the runners with a putty knife so that they'll come out with the plenum.

TPI stuff is a rare find in the salvage yards where I live. I chanced on a nice set of runners with no dings, but the plenum was missing so I checked the intake runner flanges, the bottom bolts were still there, and the flanges were broken, shame because the valve covers weren't even on the heads.

Each gasket has a set of 2 plastic alignment pins that mate with matching aligment holes on the intake runner ports so don't worry about that.

See attached image of gasket.

 

Thanks for the help. As far as removing the plenum, it wasn't hard, I just took the bolts off, took the throttle body off, then I pulled the plenum up. It came right off. I hope it'll go on the same way.

I have the Edlebrock runners that seem to be a beefier than the stock units. However, good thing you told me this, I'm gonna be real careful putting the plenum back.

Thanks you again.

 

The above is good advice. When I redid my runners and plenum the motor was in the car with everything in place so I did it a little differently. Do what is best for your situation.

I mounted the drivers side runner first and torqued the bolts to the manifold following the above advice. Reason was the back inside Torex bolt was hard to get to for the final torque on my car. With the plenum not yet installed it was easier to get to and see what the heck I was doing.

Then I mounted the passenger side runner to the manifold but left it loose as was suggested above. On my car I then ran the automatic transmission TV cable inside of the drivers side runner before I put the plenum inplace.

Then I installed the plenum gaskets and lowered the plenum into place and installed the bolts. IMHO you only need a small gap to fit the plenum between the runners.

The rest should go easy enough. Allen

 

What do they call the peice that goes under the throttle body? Can you buy that new the bolts broke off in the throttle body and I cant seem to get it off I have it soaking right now. How many of them are their any way make sure i got them all im sure i did its just frozen on there.

 

Thats a coolant passage ..that can be simply bypassed tho I have
not because its funtions properly.

Im not sure what the name is and Im sparing myself the embrassment by guessing. But, I do know the function.

I rebuilt my Tuned Port from GM factory parts. (special order)
not junkyard stuff.

the bolts that are broken are very inexpensive at a dealer; I recommend getting them there.

however that coolant passage probally costs a arm and a leg at a dealer. I would try to find one used on Ebay or junkyard.

 

Does not that part also contains the Idle Air Control along with the coolent bypass? If so it needs to be there if we are talking about same part. Allen

 

I don't need the coolant section.
I cut the coolant part off leaving just the IAC housing, and fabricated a cover for the part I cut off, and used allen socket head screws. It's been bored out with the airfoil installed to 52mm

 

Yeh i knew it was a coolant passage just cant get the damn thing off. Im sure you can buy a polished bolt kit that should come with those I would hope. Im sand blasting all the peices and painting them and that was next in line but all the allens broke off at the head. I like that idea rgarcia63

 

I stopped using allen wrenches and use torx bits instead on them little suckers, using them seems to give you a little more control over stripping.

 

Yeh I got them all out today but 1 I as so mad broke off even and now i have to drill it out somehow and get it out with a easy out. It was a pain in the *** getting that coolant peice off also.