Codes
Codes
I have a dumb question, as a non mechanically inclined person. My 85 IROC shows a Check Engine light at times, and I've heard that it correlates to a code, after hooking it up to a computer.
Short of taking this to the mechanic's, how would I go about determining what code its throwing out?
Thanks,
Rick
Short of taking this to the mechanic's, how would I go about determining what code its throwing out?
Thanks,
Rick
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Tampa,Florida
Car: 1986 WS6 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Codes
Originally posted by prevarications
I have a dumb question, as a non mechanically inclined person. My 85 IROC shows a Check Engine light at times, and I've heard that it correlates to a code, after hooking it up to a computer.
Short of taking this to the mechanic's, how would I go about determining what code its throwing out?
Thanks,
Rick
I have a dumb question, as a non mechanically inclined person. My 85 IROC shows a Check Engine light at times, and I've heard that it correlates to a code, after hooking it up to a computer.
Short of taking this to the mechanic's, how would I go about determining what code its throwing out?
Thanks,
Rick
Re: Re: Codes
Originally posted by OneGravenKiss
jump the a and b terminal with a jumper wire and the check engine light will have a series of flashes that will tell you the code and u can get the codes for your car via the internet or a book on your car and be sure to leave the key in assecory after you jumped the a and be terminal. for example the first set of flashes will be a 12 so it will flash once then flash twice and it will do this three times then if there is any error codes it will flash the first number of the code then the second one hope that helps bro.
jump the a and b terminal with a jumper wire and the check engine light will have a series of flashes that will tell you the code and u can get the codes for your car via the internet or a book on your car and be sure to leave the key in assecory after you jumped the a and be terminal. for example the first set of flashes will be a 12 so it will flash once then flash twice and it will do this three times then if there is any error codes it will flash the first number of the code then the second one hope that helps bro.
Okay, are the A and B terminals are the battery terminals?
Re: Re: Re: Codes
Originally posted by prevarications
Okay, are the A and B terminals are the battery terminals?
Okay, are the A and B terminals are the battery terminals?
Hit the link below, scroll down to the Miscellaneous section, and read up.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Tampa,Florida
Car: 1986 WS6 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Re: Re: Re: Codes
Originally posted by kevinc
Um...no. Don't short your battery terminals.
Hit the link below, scroll down to the Miscellaneous section, and read up.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
Um...no. Don't short your battery terminals.
Hit the link below, scroll down to the Miscellaneous section, and read up.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
Originally posted by DanTheMan_smlk
*hoping this guy is still alive*
*hoping this guy is still alive*
Hey, I'm back, just turned into a crispier skin color.
Funny to see my ignorance amazing others, not just me.
I'll let you know what the code comes out to be...
Thanks everyone!!
Rick
Trending Topics
Originally posted by prevarications
Hey, I'm back, just turned into a crispier skin color.
Funny to see my ignorance amazing others, not just me.
I'll let you know what the code comes out to be...
Thanks everyone!!
Rick
Hey, I'm back, just turned into a crispier skin color.
Funny to see my ignorance amazing others, not just me.
I'll let you know what the code comes out to be...
Thanks everyone!!
Rick
Am I looking at a low voltage situation? The link provided on the tech articles for deciphering codes doesn't match up to the Hayes's manual.
The check engine comes on during hot days, and after about 20 minutes of highway driving. It doesn't come on in the morning commute to work, I guess cuz the air is cooler; only when I drive back home.
I do have a problem where the car wants to stall during hot days, mornings or afternoons, right after I start it up. Normally, the engine revs up to 10k RPM, then back down, while the voltage gauge climbs up to midpoint, but when it has that stalling issue, the RPM goes up to 5k, and the voltage gauge hovers low for about 3 seconds, and then the engine spins up. I can shorten that 3 second almost stalling period by pressing the gas pedal.
Are these two issues related, do you think?
Originally posted by prevarications
The AB terminal were pins 5,6 on the 85 IROC, and after code 12, it flashed 3 times, pause, then flashed 2 times.
The AB terminal were pins 5,6 on the 85 IROC, and after code 12, it flashed 3 times, pause, then flashed 2 times.
32. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit
OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve
Originally posted by prevarications
Am I looking at a low voltage situation? The link provided on the tech articles for deciphering codes doesn't match up to the Hayes's manual.
Am I looking at a low voltage situation? The link provided on the tech articles for deciphering codes doesn't match up to the Hayes's manual.
Originally posted by prevarications
The check engine comes on during hot days, and after about 20 minutes of highway driving. It doesn't come on in the morning commute to work, I guess cuz the air is cooler; only when I drive back home.
The check engine comes on during hot days, and after about 20 minutes of highway driving. It doesn't come on in the morning commute to work, I guess cuz the air is cooler; only when I drive back home.
Originally posted by prevarications
I do have a problem where the car wants to stall during hot days, mornings or afternoons, right after I start it up. Normally, the engine revs up to 10k RPM, then back down, while the voltage gauge climbs up to midpoint, but when it has that stalling issue, the RPM goes up to 5k, and the voltage gauge hovers low for about 3 seconds, and then the engine spins up. I can shorten that 3 second almost stalling period by pressing the gas pedal.
Are these two issues related, do you think?
I do have a problem where the car wants to stall during hot days, mornings or afternoons, right after I start it up. Normally, the engine revs up to 10k RPM, then back down, while the voltage gauge climbs up to midpoint, but when it has that stalling issue, the RPM goes up to 5k, and the voltage gauge hovers low for about 3 seconds, and then the engine spins up. I can shorten that 3 second almost stalling period by pressing the gas pedal.
Are these two issues related, do you think?
Your voltage is probably dropping during the stalling condition because engine revs have dropped so low the alt isn't spinning fast enough to build a charge.
Find and fix the cause of code 32, and go from there.
Okay, I brought it to the mechanics, and they told me the EGR line was disconnected. I dont believe him, as I've checked it before I brought it in, and the in and out lines to the EGR were connected, yet the Check Engine light still came on.
The past week has been cool, where the light has not reappeared. He also said the hesitation could not be from the EGR, as it kicks in after 25mph, and I notice the problem while in Park.
I dont mind replacing it, but I'm not quite sure how. Chiltons says to remove the intake; is this an involved process? A friend tells me I'll need to replace a gasket, and remove some vacum lines when doing so.
If its not the EGR, is it the IAC valve then? I'm not sure where it is, and while there are good instructions on cleaning it on this board, it was for the TBI, and I have the TPI.
Boy, I wish there was a video on how to do this.
The past week has been cool, where the light has not reappeared. He also said the hesitation could not be from the EGR, as it kicks in after 25mph, and I notice the problem while in Park.
I dont mind replacing it, but I'm not quite sure how. Chiltons says to remove the intake; is this an involved process? A friend tells me I'll need to replace a gasket, and remove some vacum lines when doing so.
If its not the EGR, is it the IAC valve then? I'm not sure where it is, and while there are good instructions on cleaning it on this board, it was for the TBI, and I have the TPI.
Boy, I wish there was a video on how to do this.
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