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Old Jun 28, 2005 | 03:26 PM
  #1  
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Codes

I have a dumb question, as a non mechanically inclined person. My 85 IROC shows a Check Engine light at times, and I've heard that it correlates to a code, after hooking it up to a computer.

Short of taking this to the mechanic's, how would I go about determining what code its throwing out?



Thanks,
Rick
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 05:02 AM
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From: Tampa,Florida
Car: 1986 WS6 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Codes

Originally posted by prevarications
I have a dumb question, as a non mechanically inclined person. My 85 IROC shows a Check Engine light at times, and I've heard that it correlates to a code, after hooking it up to a computer.

Short of taking this to the mechanic's, how would I go about determining what code its throwing out?



Thanks,
Rick
jump the a and b terminal with a jumper wire and the check engine light will have a series of flashes that will tell you the code and u can get the codes for your car via the internet or a book on your car and be sure to leave the key in assecory after you jumped the a and be terminal. for example the first set of flashes will be a 12 so it will flash once then flash twice and it will do this three times then if there is any error codes it will flash the first number of the code then the second one hope that helps bro.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 09:08 AM
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Re: Re: Codes

Originally posted by OneGravenKiss
jump the a and b terminal with a jumper wire and the check engine light will have a series of flashes that will tell you the code and u can get the codes for your car via the internet or a book on your car and be sure to leave the key in assecory after you jumped the a and be terminal. for example the first set of flashes will be a 12 so it will flash once then flash twice and it will do this three times then if there is any error codes it will flash the first number of the code then the second one hope that helps bro.

Okay, are the A and B terminals are the battery terminals?
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Re: Re: Re: Codes

Originally posted by prevarications
Okay, are the A and B terminals are the battery terminals?
Um...no. Don't short your battery terminals.

Hit the link below, scroll down to the Miscellaneous section, and read up.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 01:23 PM
  #5  
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From: Tampa,Florida
Car: 1986 WS6 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Re: Re: Re: Codes

Originally posted by kevinc
Um...no. Don't short your battery terminals.

Hit the link below, scroll down to the Miscellaneous section, and read up.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml
no not your a and be terminal on the battery! on the right side of the steering wheel under the dash is a 12 pin diagnostic port and the top two pins on the right are the a and b terminal.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 08:05 PM
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*hoping this guy is still alive*

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Old Jun 30, 2005 | 10:58 AM
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Originally posted by DanTheMan_smlk
*hoping this guy is still alive*


Hey, I'm back, just turned into a crispier skin color.

Funny to see my ignorance amazing others, not just me.

I'll let you know what the code comes out to be...



Thanks everyone!!

Rick
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Old Jun 30, 2005 | 12:36 PM
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Originally posted by prevarications
Hey, I'm back, just turned into a crispier skin color.

Funny to see my ignorance amazing others, not just me.

I'll let you know what the code comes out to be...



Thanks everyone!!

Rick
Okay, it took me a little while to figure out code 12 didn't mean 12 flashes, or 12 pauses, or any combination. Had to crack open the Hayes manual. The AB terminal were pins 5,6 on the 85 IROC, and after code 12, it flashed 3 times, pause, then flashed 2 times.

Am I looking at a low voltage situation? The link provided on the tech articles for deciphering codes doesn't match up to the Hayes's manual.

The check engine comes on during hot days, and after about 20 minutes of highway driving. It doesn't come on in the morning commute to work, I guess cuz the air is cooler; only when I drive back home.

I do have a problem where the car wants to stall during hot days, mornings or afternoons, right after I start it up. Normally, the engine revs up to 10k RPM, then back down, while the voltage gauge climbs up to midpoint, but when it has that stalling issue, the RPM goes up to 5k, and the voltage gauge hovers low for about 3 seconds, and then the engine spins up. I can shorten that 3 second almost stalling period by pressing the gas pedal.


Are these two issues related, do you think?
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Old Jul 4, 2005 | 08:49 AM
  #9  
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by prevarications
The AB terminal were pins 5,6 on the 85 IROC, and after code 12, it flashed 3 times, pause, then flashed 2 times.
Looks like you have code 32 stored. From the Tech Info area of this board, here's what 32 means:

32. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit
OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve

Originally posted by prevarications


Am I looking at a low voltage situation? The link provided on the tech articles for deciphering codes doesn't match up to the Hayes's manual.
What does the Haynes manual say Code 32 indicates?


Originally posted by prevarications

The check engine comes on during hot days, and after about 20 minutes of highway driving. It doesn't come on in the morning commute to work, I guess cuz the air is cooler; only when I drive back home.
Find the cause of code 32 and fix it.


Originally posted by prevarications

I do have a problem where the car wants to stall during hot days, mornings or afternoons, right after I start it up. Normally, the engine revs up to 10k RPM, then back down, while the voltage gauge climbs up to midpoint, but when it has that stalling issue, the RPM goes up to 5k, and the voltage gauge hovers low for about 3 seconds, and then the engine spins up. I can shorten that 3 second almost stalling period by pressing the gas pedal.

Are these two issues related, do you think?
If your old, stock engine spun up to 10,000 rpm you'd drop a valve or throw a rod. Not calling you a fibber, but what you're saying doesn't make sense.

Your voltage is probably dropping during the stalling condition because engine revs have dropped so low the alt isn't spinning fast enough to build a charge.

Find and fix the cause of code 32, and go from there.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 11:58 AM
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Okay, I brought it to the mechanics, and they told me the EGR line was disconnected. I dont believe him, as I've checked it before I brought it in, and the in and out lines to the EGR were connected, yet the Check Engine light still came on.

The past week has been cool, where the light has not reappeared. He also said the hesitation could not be from the EGR, as it kicks in after 25mph, and I notice the problem while in Park.

I dont mind replacing it, but I'm not quite sure how. Chiltons says to remove the intake; is this an involved process? A friend tells me I'll need to replace a gasket, and remove some vacum lines when doing so.

If its not the EGR, is it the IAC valve then? I'm not sure where it is, and while there are good instructions on cleaning it on this board, it was for the TBI, and I have the TPI.


Boy, I wish there was a video on how to do this.
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