Hello everyone.
I need some advice. (lots of it)
I need to buy injectors, I had the heads ported, 1.94 valves, they are 52cc, .060 over 350, 10/1 comp. roller hot cam, 1.5 roller rockers. 350. there was a 305 in car before.

1. I need bosch style injectors?
2. Can I go 28lb?
3. How will the car run if I go to big on the injectors?
4. I need adjustable fuel regulator, which one do I need ?
5. Iam looking at headers, I have an air pump, do I go long tube, or short tube? Can I set it up for duel cats? and what will it get me if I go that way?
what will I gain if I go with shorties vs long tube?
6, I will need a chip burnt.?
7. Torque converter,I need one , is 2200 to 2600 ok to do? which one do I need to get?

Iam gettng close to haveing the motor complete, maybe I will put it in this weekend?

thanks in advance
scott and son.

 

Well scott, I think the first thing we need to know is where you are from......

..... Okay, I had to poke fun at the name. Sorry

1. No, almost any of the first generation style MPFI injectors will work. SVO's, Bosch, Accels, etc.

2. You could, but I don't see a reason too at this point unless there is some substantial cost savings. At 28lbs, you will need to get into chip burning, or the car will run rich.

3. Rich... It will run, but not as well as it could with a properly sized injector, or chip burning for that size injector.

4. The cheapest you can find - it's a really simple device.

5. Long Tube is by far the way to go. The greater the distance before the collector, the better. HOWEVER, to the best of my knowledge, there is no real long tube system that is a bolt on. My suggestion would be to get SLP's 1 3/4 inch headers, and the kit for the dual cat option - if it's still avaliable. Stay away from flowtech.

6. It always helps, and if you run those 28#'ers, yes you will.

7. Depends on the rest of your combo. Are you using a stock intake, or a superram, or something more exotic like an LT1 intake? You said roller hot cam, but are you refering to the LT4 hot cam, or just using hot cam in a general sense? Gears? Are you going to be running slicks? What heads were ported and what are their flow numbers?

A 2200-2600 RPM stall would be great for a stock application. For something more aggressive, you would probably want to go up to 3000+ rpm.



As always, that's just

 

Lol
Iam from Va. (not)

Yes the LT4 hot cam sorry.

Heads were 305 but they came out Great, flowed better than expected after bigger valves and porting, I will see if I can find the flow numbers.

I have a set of stock 19 lb injectors but they are to small correct???

What advantage or performance increase , is there going to be with bigger injectors?

Yes stock intake and runners at this time, the intake was ported as well. may switch to different one later. I would like to see how the kid likes it as is.

Long tube headers it is, Thats what I will look for.
what does it take to do the duel cat set up? isn't there sensors on each cat?
change somthing tin the chip?

Also, just street driving, no slicks. 3000 ??? stall.
do you think thats to high for the street????
It would sound like it was slipping in and out of gear, correct??
thanks
much
scott

 

goy, i don't mean to step on your toes, but will he not have to get at least 22lb injectors and a burnt chip for that 350? it had a 305 before. i know factory that is a difference between the two engines.

 

For a stock intake motor, 2200-2600 would be great. I don't know how that cam will affect where peak power occurs in your peticular combo (small chambers, etc.) - but if it occurs around 3200 RPM, and you can stall at 2500 RPM, you will be sitting pretty. 3,000 is too much for a stock intake'd car.

19lbs are too small, 28's are too big.... why not just get a set of 22 or 24lb units?? The only performance increase that can be seen with a bigger injector is with a bigger engine, or a lot more air flow. Just putting bigger injectors on a smaller motor may yeild less performance because of the out-of-tune state of the A/F ratio.

Only one O2 sensor. Longtubes will require a customer Y pipe at the very least, if not a fully custom exhaust. Just keep that little part in mind, like I said, they are not bolt on's, as far as I know.

 

Read my post! I didn't even reply yet and you are chewing on me about the 19#'ers???

 

what does the y pipe do???
thanks
scott

 

If your car has true duels all the way back there is no y pipe correct? or do you have to tie them together for some reason??
thanks
scott

 

FWIW my .02 is that the cam is too big for this setup and intended purpose...

 

I will get the cam spec sheet tonight and post it.
I believe its .492/.492

Why do you think its to big?

I have a crane cam degree kit to degree in the cam to see what the numbers are, I should do that tonight.

Thanks
scott

 

A couple places I've seen comments that the cam numbers seem relatively tame, but the profile is somewhat different with respect to how the duration actually works.

Allegedly contributes to a somewhat soggy bottom end which is the best part, IMO, for a street machine.

I do not know this from first hand experience, but only from some reading I've done in consideration of potential mods to my car.

EDIT: I'm sure there are people here with the experience to set us both straight.

Just make sure the intended purpose of the car is clearly known and select parts accordingly...

 

I think the LT4 hot cam is a little too big also... but he wasn't asking that question and I wasn't going to jump on him about it. I figured he might be doing a superram or the like in the future, and had his reasons.

The Y-pipe is responsible for connecting the two banks of cylanders into a single exhaust. If you have no plans of doing that, then I have no reason to not suggest longtubes. Since it seems like you are throwing emissions to the wind anyways, there's little reason to keep the A.I.R. system, so I wouldn't worry about that.

 

No Not to the wind.
just asking.

I guess I could do a super ram, mini ram. set up.

Does anyone have any experience with this cam?
How would the super ram change things? lots more air correct?
thanks
scott

 

I consider the superram to be the ideal street intake, especially in an automatic equiped vehicle. Now, there's differing opinions, but some combinations will use certain intakes better than others.

What I see in your combination is a set of heads that aren't huge aftermarket breathers, but not a factory swirl port either. That indicates to me that you would want something with substantial mid range pull, and there's no untuned intake out there that will beat the superram's tuned powerband. The LT4 hot cam fits right into a superram combination and the 355 ci displacement won't come close to taxing it's breathing ability in stock form.

Just like stock TPI gives you that great 2600-3600 RPM pull, the superram produces a similar pull, but at 3800-4600 RPM, a much better range when considering that after you shift, you should be just below that to start pulling hard again. Where as TPI produces it's best HP around 4000-4400 RPM, the superram tops out at about 5300-5700 RPM, perfect unless you have an absolutely bulletproof balanced bottom end and you want to spin to the moon.

Untuned intakes will produce greater high RPM power, but just can't match the superram where you will spend the most time with an automatic, 3400-5000. The superram provides more air, and is TUNED to operate in a higher RPM band than the TPI. Just for comparison purposes - everyone talks about the LS1's great powerband.... from TB to Head the Ls1's average intake runner is 20 inches long. The Superram's average is 21 inches long; pretty darn close. From plenum to head, I think the SuperRam is about .5 inches shorter, giving the SR more plenum space on top of it.

As far as emissions - the holley stealth ram and miniram/lt1 is illegal. if they do a visual inspection, your dual will also be likely not to pass. You are altering the distance of the cat from the heads, and some states will ding you on that. This was why I suggested the SLP shorties. They use the factory path. As much as I am a fan of dual exhausts, and hate single pipes... the law is the law. Sometimes you can sneak by with duals, sometimes you can't.... either way, it's a lot of money just to gamble.

 

Still I think the intended purpose of the car needs to be more clearly stated.

Perhaps it's just splitting hairs but to me a daily driver with a bit more pep is different than a hot street car which is different than a street/strip car...

 

I think's he's building something between the DD w/ more power, and a hot street car. Seems that way anyways since he intends on his son driving it.... If it was his "Adult toy", I think we'd be talking hot street car.

 

Save the money you might have planned for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and get a cable, monitoring software, and PROM writer instead.

My gut says the factory LT4 cam is not too much. Even the LT4 "hot" cam with regular 1.5:1 rockers is very streetable.

 

I'd say I almost agree, but still would get an AFPR...very easy to make a slight change in fuel that ECM can still compensate for during part throttle/cruise, but something you can use to tweak WOT runs when you're close.

FWIW, I really like the Holly unit that I got in some intake parts I recently bought, although I've not had it on a running engine, it's pretty slick for adjusting, the "top-hat" rotates, no need for a wrench, etc.