Does anyone rebuild stock throttle bodies (add bushings on shaft to eliminate slop)
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From: Charles County, Maryland
Car: 2000 BMW M5
Does anyone rebuild stock throttle bodies (add bushings on shaft to eliminate slop)
Hi guys, I have a HSR'd 327, but I am still using a stock dual 48mm TPI throttle body. I have had 2 of these throttle bodies in used, high mileage condition, and both of them have a lot of slop in the throttle shaft. This translates into a hanging high idle unless you blip the throttle (you can see the TPS readings will settle around 0.58-0.60 volts if the throttle is gently closed, coasting to a stop in traffic, but if you rev and snap the throttle shut it drops to around 0.54 volts and then idles at the correct speed). I have tried adding additional throttle return springs, but I still get the hanging high idle, only it takes slightly less effort to snap the throttle shut now. I would hate to spend hundreds on a BBK or similar aftermarket throttle body when the stock 48mm dual is enough for my 327. Does anyone know of a service who will drill out the throttle body and add bronze or roller bushings/bearings to solve my problem? Any idea of the cost to have this done?
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Maybe for the price that some one would rebuild it you can buy a used one on the boards here for alot cheaped. Just my opinion. I can imagine them being that much.
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Any competent carb rebuild shop should be able to rebush the TB's for like 30-40$
Isnt any difference doing it to a carb or a TB
later
Jeremy
Isnt any difference doing it to a carb or a TB
later
Jeremy
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From: Charles County, Maryland
Car: 2000 BMW M5
Thanks guys, I figured a carb shop might be the route to go. There is no such thing as a good used stock throttle body, they all ovaled out the casting to some degree. Some are not far enough along to hang the idle yet but I am not willing to continue to spend $50-60 on used TB's and find all the bad ones. I have already done this twice and both units do not close that last 1% TPS to get a consistent idle reading.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,692
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From: Corona
Car: 92 Form, 91 Z28, 89 GTA, 86 Z28
Engine: BP383 vortech, BP383, 5.7 TPI, LG4
Transmission: 4L60e, 700R4, 700R4..
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 2.73
I had similar problems, and found that an infrequent lube kept it working. Carb/EFI cleaner dries out the bushings and doesn't lube. Don't remember what I used. I also loosened the cable to the cruise control by one step on the swiss cheese connector, but you probably aren't running with cruise.
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Sidney, B.C., Canada
Car: 88 T/A
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
I had the exact same prob. so I took the TB to a local auto electric place that said they could do it. When done, it actually had MORE play than when I brought it in. The only good news is that the new bushing is apparently self-lubricating, and at least doesn't hang up on me any more. The best thing would be to put a bearing in there. There's a guy on ebay that does it, or if you had an extra TB you could do it if you had the right sized bearing.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Macungie, PA
Car: '87 IROC (TPI 350), '01 Corvette, '
Engine: '90 Corvette 350, blueprinted and b
Transmission: 700 R-4, with stage 2 shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Have you checked....
It sounds like you have already checked and found the slop in the throttle shaft but I just wanted to throw something else out there.
I had the same simptoms with my car a year ago and I talked with my friend, a mechanic. He said that the TPS sensor can get worn out over time and parts in the sensor itself can bind-up not allowing the throttle to always close right. For me that was the problem, just a thought if others are having this problem and their TB is still seems like its in good shape.
Not to even metion the IAC which I always check first.
I had the same simptoms with my car a year ago and I talked with my friend, a mechanic. He said that the TPS sensor can get worn out over time and parts in the sensor itself can bind-up not allowing the throttle to always close right. For me that was the problem, just a thought if others are having this problem and their TB is still seems like its in good shape.
Not to even metion the IAC which I always check first.
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