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EGR wire

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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 03:06 AM
  #1  
blackbeauty's Avatar
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From: Christchurch, New Zealand
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 1989 305 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 10 bolt
EGR wire

Hi guys and gals,

Here's a picture of a wire that screws into the base of the EGR valve on my '89 TPI setup. But, what does it do? You can see there's a wire that screws into the large metal part, and then this screws into the EGR valve base.

Anyone got clues?
Attached Thumbnails EGR wire-egrtest.jpg  
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 07:22 AM
  #2  
My1986IROC-Z's Avatar
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From: Eastern Georgia
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI (used to be Carb)
Transmission: 700R4
its a temp switch for the EGR. Click on the this EGR Temp Switch
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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From: Christchurch, New Zealand
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 1989 305 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 10 bolt
Oh cool, thanks for that bit of info. Do you know if these things tend to fail or are they quite reliable? I'm rebuilding a TPI engine so now would be a good time to replace it if they're known to be faulty
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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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My1986IROC-Z's Avatar
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From: Eastern Georgia
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI (used to be Carb)
Transmission: 700R4
Couldn't answer that one bro. I am just converting to TPI from carb. I bought a new one to be on the safe side though.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 12:02 AM
  #5  
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From: Christchurch, New Zealand
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 1989 305 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 10 bolt
Reckon I might do the same. They can't be expensive things.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 01:22 AM
  #6  
rgarcia63's Avatar
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Originally posted by blackbeauty
Reckon I might do the same. They can't be expensive things.
FYI
The last time I priced one at AutoZone it was a WELlS EDS4 $49.95+tax.

There's a strip of curved bi-metal inside the sensor mounted to the base that screws into the EGR.
The bi-metal strip expands with temperature. The expansion is stop by the the point of the screw connected to the wire bringing the ECM EGR signal to ground telling it that's it's OK to apply EGR if needed.

The bi-metal strip and screw should be calibrated to make contact when the engine reachs normal operating temperature (approx. 160°F.)

The bi-metal strip is of the type used in old toasters to release the pop-up mechanism. Over time the rate of expansion changes, and it take more time for it to release and the settings has to be adjusted according.

Over time the EGR sensor will stop making contact and the ECM will not apply the EGR when needed, and the sensor will need recalibrating. Adjustment screw should be sealed with thread locker.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 09:39 AM
  #7  
coolguywalt's Avatar
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Castle Rock, CO
Car: 89 Turbo Trans Am, '14 Forester XT
Engine: 3.8 Turbo V6
Transmission: 2004-R
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Last week I foud that my wire had pulled off of the sensor. Fearing drivability issues, I went to Advance Auto and they did not have one on record for our cars. After doing some research, I found GP Sorensen part #: 779-301 is the correct part number for it. $20 bucks, and it works for me. The plug for it is burried in the passenger-side of the engines wiring harness back by the distributor. Be carefull not to break the plastic tab that holds the sensor to the wire back there. Hope this helps.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 11:14 AM
  #8  
GOY's Avatar
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From: Cleveland Ohio
Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
Originally posted by rgarcia63
FYI
The last time I priced one at AutoZone it was a WELlS EDS4 $49.95+tax.

There's a strip of curved bi-metal inside the sensor mounted to the base that screws into the EGR.
The bi-metal strip expands with temperature. The expansion is stop by the the point of the screw connected to the wire bringing the ECM EGR signal to ground telling it that's it's OK to apply EGR if needed.

The bi-metal strip and screw should be calibrated to make contact when the engine reachs normal operating temperature (approx. 160°F.)

The bi-metal strip is of the type used in old toasters to release the pop-up mechanism. Over time the rate of expansion changes, and it take more time for it to release and the settings has to be adjusted according.

Over time the EGR sensor will stop making contact and the ECM will not apply the EGR when needed, and the sensor will need recalibrating. Adjustment screw should be sealed with thread locker.

I'm not going to agree with any of that The purpose of the switch is a feedback loop for MAF systems to tell the ecm that the EGR valve is opening and closing properly - NOT to indicate when it's "OK to apply EGR" and open the valve. In MAP - the MAP will see a change in pressure as the valve is opened and shut. In MAF cars the tempature of the valve will change, if it does not change in congruence with the signaling for the valve to open and shut, the there is an emissions system failure, and that is the purpose of the switch.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 06:07 PM
  #9  
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From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Wow, $49 at AutoZone for an aftermarket unit? The GM unit is quite a bit cheaper. We carry it for $15.
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 11:45 PM
  #10  
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Originally posted by 92blue
Wow, $49 at AutoZone for an aftermarket unit? The GM unit is quite a bit cheaper. We carry it for $15.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 03:08 PM
  #11  
blackbeauty's Avatar
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From: Christchurch, New Zealand
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 1989 305 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 10 bolt
Anyone have the GM part number?
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 04:00 PM
  #12  
Rosco the Iroc's Avatar
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From: NE PA
Car: '89 IROC, '14 LTZ Burb, '18 H6 Outb
Engine: 355 TPI /w Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
So a signal voltage is applyed to it and when the temp is reached it GRD's it out?
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