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SLP Cold Air Induction

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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 10:47 AM
  #1  
rjpbboi's Avatar
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Car: 87 Trans Am, 89 RX7
Engine: 350tpi,350carb
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SLP Cold Air Induction

I've always heard a lot of talk about SLP's cold air induction kit. I was wondering if it is worth the price and fi you can install it while still using MAF or do you have to switch to MAP. Also do you have to do anything with the computer to run this setup?
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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From: Massachusetts
Car: 87 Trans Am, 89 RX7
Engine: 350tpi,350carb
Transmission: T-5,t56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi,4.11 posi
Ok I have also come up with this, buying tubing and making my own. I plan to get an 88 GM TPI Intake Elbow, a 12'' Alum Tubing Elbow 3'', a 90 degreee alum tubing elbow 3''. However If I use this setup, I will have to relocate the MAF Sensor. Does anyone know where I can relocate this sensor and what I would have to do to relocate it.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #3  
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simply lengthen the wires. - try to keep it in a straight section, not immediately after a turn. placing it right after a turn can screw w/ the reading. also, DO NOT polish the aluminim unless you want to loose power. personally, if I were to use metal tubing of any sort, I'd wrap it w/ header tape or some other heat wrap...you wouldn't believe how hot those stupid import supposed "cold" air kits get...
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:58 PM
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From: Michigan
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
I love my SLP. It was easy to install. It says to reroute your charcoal canister.....but i made 3 points tossing that thing in the trash. Easy bolt on. Comes with a new K&N filter.
Comes complete. Its pretty sharp. I just plugged the lines for teh Charcoal canister and taped up the wires good and called it a day. Rev that baby up....you can really hear that air flow!
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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if you inxnay the charcoal canister you should put a breather filter on the end of the line. Otherwise the fuel tank doesn't vent properly....
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 05:44 PM
  #6  
rjpbboi's Avatar
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From: Massachusetts
Car: 87 Trans Am, 89 RX7
Engine: 350tpi,350carb
Transmission: T-5,t56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi,4.11 posi
simply lengthen the wires. - try to keep it in a straight section, not immediately after a turn. placing it right after a turn can screw w/ the reading. also, DO NOT polish the aluminim unless you want to loose power. personally, if I were to use metal tubing of any sort, I'd wrap it w/ header tape or some other heat wrap...you wouldn't believe how hot those stupid import supposed "cold" air kits get...
so is rubber better then?
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 07:30 PM
  #7  
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From: Michigan
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
Originally posted by Shagwell
if you inxnay the charcoal canister you should put a breather filter on the end of the line. Otherwise the fuel tank doesn't vent properly....
Actually what I did was link the 2 hoses together with a duel barbed fitting.
Im trying to think how many lined ther were going in there. I think there was 3. Not 100% sure. A vacuume line and a feed and return line. The vacuume line I capped off and the feed lined I hooked together.
The SLP is 100 times better then the small can it tryed to get air from.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:42 PM
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rubber/plastic intakes transfer much less heat.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 06:37 PM
  #9  
rjpbboi's Avatar
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From: Massachusetts
Car: 87 Trans Am, 89 RX7
Engine: 350tpi,350carb
Transmission: T-5,t56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi,4.11 posi
DO NOT polish the aluminim unless you want to loose power.
Can someone explain why polishing the aluminum causes a loss of power. I love the appearance of the polished CAI I've seen on this site, and most of the ones I've seen have been polished. I ask the quesition because I'm not sure what is in polish.
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