jjlabinski

Can someone direct me to the thread or company that helps you select a cam for your specific engine combination. I believe there was a minimum fee involved?



thx


Jeff

scribbles

comp cams will do it for free... just try there website

jjlabinski

I have had poor results working with comp.

scribbles

sorry that is the only place i know. mabie you could get a recomendation for a cam, and match the specs with a cam company you like.

brutalform

Motor Machine in Tucson AZ..(520)792-1156. I believe there is a fee. This phone number was valid about 2 years ago. There is also Lazer cams, and they are free. Do a search for Lazer to get their website.

jjlabinski

thanks!

I am converting from carb to tpi and my lord, I have never run into so many stumbling blocks.

I will check out the info you so kindly provided.


thx

Jeff

brutalform

ZEEYAA

Just currious, why did you have " poor results working with comp"? Was it bad service or bad attitude? I have used comp for many years with everything from hyd flat tappet cams to compleate roller set ups, everything from the cam button to the valve springs/ rockers and have only the best to say about them they were very prompt and curtious, and the quality to me is second to none. Im not saying that CRANE,REED,CROWER, and other people dont make a good product but that really supprises me. Also im sure if you put the purtinant information on here that some of us could maybe give you a good reccomendation about what to use then you could check it against what the cam companys have told you, but we would need to know what purpose you are going to use the car for, comp ratio, cubic inches, gears,tranny,weight etc to give you what you need. GOOD LUCK.

jjlabinski

I have submitted my specs via e-mail as well as called comp cams and no one ever indicates to me what is the best cam for my particular engine combination. I think maybe it is because may parts are miss-matched?

355 chevy
world products sportman II heads
slp 1-3/4 headers
borla cat back
stock tpi base that has been slightly ported
accel runners
opened up upper plenum
52mm throttle body
stock ignition
3.73 gear
700r4 w/2800 stall


I currnetly have comp cams part# 12-423-8 which is 224/230@.050
.335/.340 lobe lift (.502/.510) gross with a 110 lobe separation; hydraulic roller.

I have a mass air system and no one can tell me how to get the thing to run with the low vacuum this cam produces.

I dont want to build a dud, the engine has not been dropped yet and I feel this is a good time to make the switch to a cam I will be happy with.

yes, if someone can offer guidance that would be great. I have posted this question on the site before but got conflicting answers.



Jeff

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Are you able to burn chips to support the setup? If not, I would expect it to be difficult in the lower rpm, cranking, and off idle response just because of that cam.
IMO, The intake and the LSA may be the biggest issue.
I'm not the greatest at this but the few things I see that may give you problems is the 110 LSA. (112-114 will give you better vacuum)
Lots of people seem to run good with LTR setups and the "hot cam".
It's slightly less duration than you have now(218 area) with a larger LSA to keep your vacuum up better, especially if you are running a stock chip.
That will not keep all of the top end performance but will operate better all around because of the working ramge of the intake.
The Sportsman II heads are not the best flowing on the exhaust side but with the dual pattern cam and exhaust you have it should not have been too much of a problem until its really wound up.
The Sportsman heads should be the -2 or 3 series to support the springs needed for that cam (should be 986 or 986 Comps). If they are the -1 with light springs that may have been part of your problem.
The LTR intake setup may be a bit restrictive for that duration cam (likes to be above 2500 but you do have the converter for it)

I'm using the 224/230 112 cam in mine with a stealth ram. Haven't started it up this year yet so I hope everything will work as expected. I had my heads machined to accept the 986 dual springs, spring seats and seals. I can adjust my chip as needed to compensate for the changes of the intake, cam, and exhaust that I've added. I do not run a MAF so I can't give you specifics on what to adjust there. Browse the DIY-PROM board and look at the stickys, the tuning guide is most helpful and can give you info on how to get started doing your own tuning. With any aggressive setup it is best (if not mandatory) to adjust the tune for optimum performance and all around good manners.
Actually to me that setup screams HSR, Superram or anything with shorter runners to breath better.

jjlabinski

I have never burned a CD let alone a computer chip. . . .sorry.

The reason I went MAF when attempting my conversion was to get away from having to burn chips.

I got smarts real good. . . can you or anyone else give me a brief summary of what is involved in burning a chip for a MAF system?


thx


Jeff

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

There's some really good stickies on the DIY-PROM board specifically for that. I recommend reading them extensively. It's more motor-experience than computer-experience.

The very basic jist of it is this: Use a laptop with a specially made cable to monitor what your engine is doing. Using the results that are recorded, you can see where you need to adjust things (more/less fuel, temp turn-on, etc.). You then use another attachment to a computer to burn a new chip for your car's computer. Once inserted, you start the process over. Wash, rinse, repeat - you get the picture. Eventually you're satisfied with the latest chip you've burned and you've got a car that's running just how you told it to.

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

First things first
It is not so much as "how to burn a chip" as it is understanding what needs to be done to the controls that the engine is using to calculate the fuel and spark.
The issue your having as an example is pretty well know that the MAF does not do well when there is a "step" change in air flow. The lopey cam gan just amplify the effects and cause surging as the control tries to catch up to the feedback.There are ways to change some settings that will give better control/response at the off idle positions. Being an SD guy myself I'm not totally up on the exact settings for MAF systems but the theories of operation are primarily the same. If you are getting a bog upon flooring it then you add some fuel, there are adders to the base fueling (multiplier of TPS position change) to cover the dead spot. Exactly the same as you would increase the fuel of an accel pump on a carb.
Understanding that the datalogging can tell you where the ECM is adding and subtracting fuel at different RPMs and loads gives you the info to make the corrections and get the drivability better.
Take a look at the DIY-PROM board and go to the "tuning guide" in the stickys. (165 and MAF items)
You will find alot of issues you have had are already covered by others making the same adjustments. Lots to be learned before clicking "Save Bin" and dumping it onto a blank chip. That's the easy part.
HTH

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

The 224-230 cam on a 110 lsa isn't that crazy on the overlap.

What is your compression?
What was the idle vacuum? Are you sure there were no vacuum leaks?

If you are low on compression, try 1000 rpm for the idle and give it as much initial timing as it will take.

This cam is tuneable you don't need another one. If you want one that is easier to tune given your 'ecm tuning level of experience', then get another cam with the same duration and lift but on a 113-114 lsa.
----------
Also, motor machine will give you a cam recommendation that will have an even lower lsa than what you have now and the lift will be off the charts. I asked them years ago for a cam for my 383 superam car and they gave me like 232-238 .730 lift on a 104 lsa.

What is optimum for drag racing in the computer's eyes isn't the best overall cam for your combo, it's all about compromise. I'd save my $30 bucks if I were you.

jjlabinski

compression is 10.2:1

I have not dropped the engine yet. Kind of nervous about building a dud. If I use this cam would it help to change the cam timing?

thx

jeff

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

You are thinking too hard. It will run fine once it is tuned, and maf is very easy to get tuned compared to others. How do you know if you have low vacuum if you haven't even started it yet?

My last cam was 242-254 .555 .585 110lsa in a 10.5:1 383. Even with a vacuum canister I barely had brakes and the car idled and drive fine. I even got 18 mpg from Nashville to Savannah which is an 8 hour drive. You can't tell me about low vacuum. Your cam has way less overlap.

jjlabinski

If I do leave this cam in and it does run like crap will tweaking a chip cure it?



Doesnt some fuel enrichment table or something of that nature need to be adjusted from the get go if I use this cam?


thanks for your imput,
your advise is greatly appreciated.


Jeff

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

The chip tuning is what will fix the driveabiliy problems, assuming you don't have any vacuum leaks or other mechanical problems, like mis-adjusted valves, etc.

If you don't want to mess with the chip, there are chip burning places around that can get you pretty close with sending them scanner data.

You will need to change the injector constant, idle rpm, fan turn on-off temp, timing table, and first maf table to start.

jjlabinski

Sounds like a major investment buying a laptop and the such. Maybe I will be able to find someone in my area (cleveland ohio) who has done this before and already have the equipment.

thanks to everyone!


Jeff

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I'm in Strongsville.
I can get you started and show you what to do.
I'm and SD guy for the most part so I'll need to read up on the MAF stuff a bit. Shoot me an e-mail or PM when you Git 'r Done.
(Don't see PM's here or the weblinks anymore)
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~Johnand...eWeb/index.htm
E-mail is at the bottom.

Once you see how easy it is to log the data and make adjustments, you'll be hooked. A cheapo laptop is all thats needed and a cable made of Shack parts for $10.
I'll be doing allot of tuning on my new combo this summer too.
Don't mind helping you out if I have the time.

wackytower

I am from Cleveland, I had www.lsracingchips.com tune my car and its perfect. He is located in North Canton so he is local. We did most of the tuning just driving around to get the part throttle stuff dialed in then we went to the dyno to get the WOT tuned. I am very happy with his tuning. I could probably tune my own stuff but I was intimidated by all the stuff on the DIY board so i just has him do it. There so much stuff you can change its crazy from startup fuel to when the fans come on and everything inbetween.

jjlabinski

Thanks for the info folks.

I have been dragging my butt on this build. I may just put a milder cam in it to be safe. Then if it still needs tweaking I will contact you cleveland area guys.


Jeff