Bought 1988 Trans that had orginally a 305 MAF, They swapped the engine to a 355 Speed density and the harnass was re-pinned to speed density. The vacuum hoses where all plugged into the wrong places. Anybody have a picture of a diagram of where the hoses go.

Car has been a pain in the but since I've bough it. Stalls when stopping at stop signs or lights, Runs really rough. Could this be because the FPR was not working properly ??

checked injectors they are 22lb, Unsure of fuel pump does that make a huge differance?. The car does have the 773computer, with a custom chip. When using the stock chip, car won't even start.

EGR was not hooked up today when my buddy and I took off the the Plenum, I also need the stock location of the stock EGR SWITCH. WHen the EGR Switch was hooked to the vacuum hoses it ran even worse.

Car has MILD CAM.

Any help would be greatly appreciated... THank you

JOhn

 

Not sure if its your problem .But the Sd computer is the 730. Not sure but it could be a start

 

sounds like a massive vaccum leak, get a vaccum guage and check taht pressure!

 

I'm thinking that.. but it seems like it has something to do with the fuel pressure cause the RPM's Fluctuate, between 800 I wanna say and 100.. Drops goes up drops goes up.. THen it will die.. I'm going to summit tomorrow to get a bunch of crap for the car.. So i'm just going to spend the bucks and buy the pressure checking gauges for the car.. Mine as well they could be nice to have down the line for my other cars and my parents.. So We'll see what happens

 

mine sort of did the same thing when the mass air flow sensor went bad and cause to much fuel and fowled up the plugs
just a suggestion might want to check it out but im by no means great with this engine

 

I took a look at the car and i did notice a DIY Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator and a mess of the vacuum hoses. How important is the line going to the regulator? From my understanding when you tighten the regulator bolt down it increases pressure on the spring but when the vacuum line is sucking it counteracts this. Does the regulator increase flow under more throttle/vacuum? Most of all how important is it that the regulator is connected to a vacuum line? Im unfamiliar how this system works

 

It's a critical connection.

How it works:
Engine has vacuum in the manifold during closed and light throttle. That vacuum is "seen" by the tips of the injectors, which would tend to "pull" more fuel out (because injector flow depends on the pressure across the injector - i.e. pressure on the inlet vs pressure on the outlet). The pressure regulator is supposed to have the vacuum line connected in order to reduce the "gauge" pressure, but it actually keeps the pressure across the injector constant and thus the flow rate constant, which is what the computer assumes. At full throttle, or engine off but pump on, the pressure should read about 43.5 psi when stock. When running at idle, the pressure will appear lower on a gauge, more like 36 psi.

If it's a stock system, set the pressure to the stock setting.

The MAP sensor also needs a very good vacuum connection. The MAP sensor is basically a vacuum sensor, and lets the computer know how much load is on the engine, so that it can calculate the correct pulse width for the injector and use the right timing.

The computer can only give the right timing if the "Base" timing is set correctly. That is done by disconnecting the EST bypass wire (single connector near the passenger side AC stuff in the engine bay - tan wire with black stripe, and a black connector), then move the distributor (loosen the hold down bolt), and use a timing light to get the #1 cylinder's timing set to 6 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). Re-connect the EST bypass wire when finished.

Make sure all that is correct, and get the vacuum lines correct, and then report back problems.