rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

I am in on the AS&M TPI Runner Group Purchase that was organized on this site. (Thanks again guys!). I own an 85 Corvette and wanted to open up it's lungs a little bit to hopefully gain some upper rpm power. Anyway, to go along with the AS&M runners, I also bought a new Edelbrock base intake and an extra plenum as well.

The base is overall a very nice piece, but I wanted to "clean up" the casting internally, as well as slightly straighten the already much straighter than stock intake ports. Here's what I have done so far:
(just click on the links...I didn't want to dog down anyone with a ton of posted pics)

http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1364.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1368.jpg

I can't "finish" the runner inlets until I get the actual new runners. That way I'll have the exact measurements and can open the intakes inlets to match. I did notice that the intake has a "dual pattern" on the 4 center bolt holes...Are these so the intake can be used on "regular" heads, as well as on Vortec style heads???

http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1362.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1363.jpg

As for the plenum. I bought it used as a corvetteplenum.com ported unit, but did a good bit of clean-up on this myself. I opened up the area directly behind where the TB will be, as well as did a good bit of smoothing to the plenum "roof" and "floor". The plenum's outlets were already siamesed, so I need to figure what I am going to do with the AS&M runner's entrances when I get them. I also intend to "port-match" the plenum's exits, with the runner's entrances. Here's some pics:

http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1365.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1366.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1367.jpg

Assuming the intake swap goes as smoothly as it should...next up is a set of longtube headers and a matching Y pipe, then maybe some dyno-tuning to extract what I can from this old thing....

Here's the car its all going on:

3rdgenZ

iTrader: (1)

looks nice rel3rd,
should help that thing out a lot

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I hope you're right.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Looks good. You are on the right track.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again guys. I can't wait to get the new intake setup on the car.

Since the weather is starting to cool down, the car really likes it.

Guest

Keep in mind that the air has to travel from the plenum to the valve, so while you can make the path from the runner to the head a straight line, it'd be a bad idea... mostly because there's a bend on each end. Runner-base, base-head, in more directions than one.

Here's what I did:
http://home.earthlink.net/~thomas_89/Img_0107.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~thomas_89/Img_0110.jpg

Opened up the head side to 1206, runner side to 1.75" Be careful with the runners in the base around the EGR/cold start areas, the casting is thin there and porous in 2 different castings I've seen. There are also a couple other spots you'll find the casting is thin so be careful opening up the ports or you might go through in spots you thought would be just fine.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

1206 is the FelPro number, I assume?
Does that fit the stock head port nicely?
I just don't want to screw up and have the intake port larger than the head's port. Don't want all my new air flying into a wall, ya know?

Thanks for the tips btw.

Guest

Nope, sure dont want it flying into a wall. The factory head ports are pretty small, I would just clean the ports up in the base and leave it if the heads arent ported. I will say it cant hurt to open up the runners in the base in the middle as much as you can, thats one of the restrictive areas on a TPI and aftermarket bases are no different.

The ASM runners are 1.660 ID, so if you want them identical thats what size you'd want to port them to. Slightly bigger is probably a good idea.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot for that measurement. I appreciate that!
Yes, heads are bone stock late 85 cast iron stock Corvette heads...which really means nothing, I presume.

Thanks for the replies.

BadSS

Max is right on. The old single plane intakes were basical a straight shot from the plenum to the heads, but the air slammed into the side of the head's entrance port (old out-dated Weiand design - top). Later it was found that it was better to make a slight bend in the runners and enlarge the area in the bend to reduce velocity in the curve so the air would stick to the short-side radius and enter the head at more of a straight shot (newer Victor Jr - bottom). See the attachment below. This is similar to building up the floor of the cylinder heads (and enlarging the sides and roof of the port) to help the air "stick" to the short-turn radius at the valve. Also,, as mentioned an overhang of the head can cause enough turbulance at the port entrance to reduce the effective size of the head port opening and could offset much if not all of the gain an aftermarket base would give you on stock heads.

A stock unported Accel base only dropped flow on a set of heads measuring 248.6cfm at .500 lift to 244.4cfm. A MiniRam on the same heads measured 243.9cfm. So the basic design of the aftermarket TPI in and by itself is not that bad,,,, it's when you really start turning the air by bolting on the runners and plenum. For example,, a SuperRam upper (runners and plenum) dropped airflow at .500 to 219.4cfm (even though the SuperRam runners by themselves are reported to flow over 280cfm). The flow numbers suggest there is about a 11% POTENTIAL increase in peak horsepower moving from a SuperRam to a Miniram. However, the SuperRod intake shoot-out showed there was only about a 5% difference peak to peak on their 383 test engine (480@5600 vs 504@6200). Peak to peak torque was 506@4200 for the SuperRam and 467@4600 for the MiniRam,,, which goes to show you CFM is not the only factor in making good usable power.

Long story short, you're going to have a very good induction system and if you do any more porting than gasket matching the runners and blending that in,,, as Max said,,, work the round to square to rectangle transition point. It looks like you've hogged out the plenum,,, which is good. Since it's "siamesed" already,,,, the only other thing I would do is "roll" radius / blend (bell mouth) the runner flange to match the plenum exit,,, similar to the roll you put on the inside of the plenum exit.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. That's one thing I have been trying to do...make the base's airflow path "smoother", mainly throughout the middle where it transitions from round to rectangular, as well as smoothing all of the factory casting marks and seams, just to "clean it up". I'm not really doing any re-configuring at all, except for the transitions like you mentioned, and as soon as I can get a cylinder head measurement I'll be matching that.

I got a runner I.D. measurement so I can finally finish up that end of the base at least. My runners won't be here for a few more weeks, so I will be using madmax's runner I.D. as my "template". I will be bellmouthing the runner inlets as soon as they arrive, so hopefully the whole induction setup works as well as everyone seems to think it will. I can't wait.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

I didnt read all of this and not trying to diss on others info but when you guys said not to gasket match the heads to the intake gasket I believe that may be a mistake

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

I see what you are saying, but I'm not pulling the heads off though. I think it'd be a bigger mistake to try port-matching a set of cylinder heads that are still bolted to the shortblock.

Don't you agree?

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Looks real good dude! I'm pretty much doing the same thing, lol! Except I can't figure out what I want to do cylinder heads wise. It's out of a set of Edelbrock Performers and these aluminum Corvette heads casting 128's.

3rdgenZ

iTrader: (1)

id go with the rpm performers, unless you find a real cheap set of the L98 heads. due to the amount of work you would need to do to the L98s.imo

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

The RPM heads have no EGR provisions so they are out. I'm keeping this TPI engine with EGR so I would need them. The performers are not as bad as people make them out to be. The flow numbers are great! And of course I'd get them ported a little and cleaned up so they would flow even more. On the other hand, I have these aluminum Vette heads that I can get for cheap. Spend a few bucks on them and they'd flow REAL nice. Probably get new intake valves as they come with 1.94/1.60. So if you we're to add up the cost of the Performer heads + porting than add up the cost of the Vette heads + porting, I think the vette heads would be a hell of alot cheaper and would flow about the same. We'll see though, I'm not too worried about the heads part yet. That's for next year.

3rdgenZ

iTrader: (1)

yea sorry i forgot the RPMs werent emisions. i agree with you in the fact that they flow well. i have a chevy high performace mag that tested 8 heads on a 383. and it beat every other head in there.(i followed the average hp #s)
that was from a list of heads that included the trick flow 195!! not only did the TFs have a runners volume advantage they cost more too.
Note: they were not the cnc'd camber TFs.

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I have the same magazine. I was surprised to see these E-heads we're doing as good as they were. Thats when I decided to get a set

3rdgenZ

iTrader: (1)

yea at $900 ill be buying them for my car too. but like you, thats next years project along with a cam swap.

Guest

Not to crash the happy party, but neither do these... no EGR provisions that is.

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

You know, that never occured to me, lol!

Would it hurt my engine if I take the EGR out of the mix? Anything with my computer?

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

I am a big fan of Edelbrock heads. I "may" just wait on the intake swap until I get some decent heads to swap on at the same time...lol.

I also thought about the new, improved AFR 195 heads, but they're about $1300 or so. In all honesty, I had out of the box Edelbrock heads emissions legal (1.94/1.60 valved) on an old blower car (Mustang 5.0, sorry), and they easily helped support 502rwhp/543rwtq, through an automatic, so the "run of the mill" Edelbrocks are nothing to sneeze at. Same heads, different combo, I made 286rwhp/309rwtq on another 5.0 Mustang, but it was NA. That's easily on par with the so-called "better" AFR heads. I can't see where the Chevy versions would be any different results when comparing the two.

I ask because I've been away from the GM camp for the last 10 years....

Are the aluminum Corvette heads really worth spending alot of time and/or money porting? When compared to an Edelbrock or other aftermarket version, I mean? My Vette has the iron heads, and from what I have read, the aluminum ones that replaced them, didn't make anymore horsepower. I know the benefits of aluminum heads (weight reduction, detonation tolerance), but if they aren't that great of a cylinder head, would it really be a worthwhile upgrade? I would think that an upgrade to a better out of the box aluminum head would be a better alternative...Just thinking out loud...

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I think I'm still going for the E-heads but I thought I'd throw the Vette heads out there and see what you guys thought. It's funny, whenever you mention cylinder head and edelbrock in the same sentence, you get people flaming you for wanting them and always saying AFR or Trickflow are the way to go. Nonsense.

Guest

The AL vette heads are ok, for a stock head. I wouldnt go throwing a bunch of money at them with whats available aftermarket though.

I cant recall any of the really fast cars around here using Edelcrock heads, they're running AFR, TFS, Brodix. Not saying it cant be done (the minute I do someone will post up an example), but I think there's better to be had once you're spending that kind of money. For sure any of them will do better than an as cast factory head... thats what happens when you drop 1k on a set of heads. At least Edelbrock seems to go out of their way to make stuff legal in Nazifornia, not many do. Soon everyone will be dealing with what we do out here and thats to Edelbrock's advantage.

3rdgenZ

iTrader: (1)

the fact is the e-heads are one of (if not the) best bang for buck head out there. true the AFRs and TF are better (in most cases ) but they also cost atleast 400 bucks more (for the ones that ARE better).

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

That's true yes. For the money, the E-heads are great IMO. I also can get a deal on them so that's the main reason why I want them. Sure I can go out and spend a fortune on AFR's or TF's, but I don't exactly want to keep throwing money to go fast. Sure I want a good runner and decent performance but I don't need an 11 or a 10 second car. Dipping into the 12's is perfect to me. Right now I'm a mid to low 13 second car and even that is almost good. If I see a 12.99 I'm done, lol!

With what I have and a set of E-heads and tuning, my car will be deadly enough.

3rdgenZ

iTrader: (1)

it funny my car has something of the same set up as yours. with the expition of the pistions

3rdgenZ

iTrader: (1)

but still for the cost there good heads.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

I love nothing more than to prove people wrong.

Here's me in my old box stock Edelbrock headed purple car...everything on, or in, the engine could be bought at SUMMIT...everything was also as it came out of the boxes...no porting, no port matching, no flow testing or anything trick...Just meticulous tuning with an aftermarket tuner, and running on DOT legal ET Streets. The red car had the same headers, camshaft, maf meter, injectors, supercharger, transmission, torque converter, rear gears, etc...BUT, he had ported TFS Twisted Wedge heads (which are supposedly so much better), a ported intake, and true slicks. His car also weighed about 350-400#'s less than mine...His car was tuned via a "much better than what I used" (according to the "experts") tuning device...lol....

http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/Barneyvslane.mpg

My point is...don't be afraid to go against the grain and use parts that experts don't think you should use...as with ANY car, it is the WHOLE COMBO and how good it is MATCHED to it's intended usage. I found over the years that a GOOD TUNE goes a LONG way in making it's owner happy.

FWIW, I tried some "superior" AFR heads on one of my recent builds. Not only were they $350+ more than the Edelbrocks...they required upgraded valve springs, and studs. I saw ZERO gain with them (over the E-brocks) on that particular setup...also NA.

Guest

On that note, I know someone locally who has the supposed 'not as good' TFS heads out of the box, putting a hurting down on everything else around here and probably elsewhere.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

I think you may have missed my point madmax...

I'm sure he didn't just slap a set of TFS heads on his all else stock engine and become the town terror...

Like I said above...it's the WHOLE COMBO, as I'm sure you already know.

You can have the bestest heads out there, but if they're coupled with a smorgasbord of mismatched parts, it'll be a disappointment. TUNING, and attention to detail is what usually makes the difference. JMO...

Guest

Nah, I got it. There's a few local well matched and tuned combos and the guy with the out of the box TFS heads is currently sitting on the top platform waiting to be kicked off. I probably could with my setup (ported AFR's, XFI cam) if I ditched the 66% stock TPI on top for the Superram everyone else is running. At least I'm #2... or #3 if you count the one nobody saw that has since been sold.

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

I know that you guys have been off the subject for a while but I have an idea about port matching the intake side of the heads on the block

loosen all the intake rocker stud nuts to close all the valves

tape off the intake valley with alot to duct tape.

put your valve covers back on

put the gaskets on the heads with a bolt on each end of the head and mark out the area to be removed

use the dremmel and get her done

with a air gun and a shop vac do the blow and suck treatment untill your blue in the face

then spray some carb spray in the intake ports and do it again

make those intake ports brand new lookin

just some thoughts from a SEABEE after a wake and bake

Guest

If you're just port matching, might be a good idea to stuff the port with a towel and tape it off from the end of the port to prevent stuff from getting down in there, its going to be hard to get all that stuff out from around the valve edge and the guide. I'd still leave the intake side a little smaller than the head because its pretty hard even if you're careful to get an exact match from intake to head. Things just dont line up that well when you bolt them up.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

I won't be doing any ON CAR porting myself...knowing how metal shavings fly everywhere, it's simply not worth the risk to me.
besides...
I've all but talked myself into waiting a little while and buying a set of AFR 195's...

I figure if the intake is coming off anyway...as well as the exhaust...what the heck...lol.

LT1FUN

rel3rd, Thanks for posting those pic's, they've "almost" convinced me to port my intake base on my own.

I do have a few questions through. One being, what did you use to port the base? Was it a dremel or something similar? Also, what bits did you use?

I always planned to port my plenum because that's something that can be done pretty easily without having to have a lot of experience. The intake base though, is something else entirely and probably requires a good bit more "finesse" to get good results. I've been worried about the difficulty level for a first-time porter like myself. (Up utill now, anything I've ever needed to be ported, I've payed my engine builder to do it for me).

Money's pretty tight now, so I'd like to save some cash if I could, and do the work myself.

How long did it take you to port out the base? Have you done this type of work before or was this the first time poting an intake?

I'm kind of torn right now between spending the money and having it professionally ported, or trying to do it myself.

On a scale of 1-10, 10, being "very difficult" 1 being "easy" how would you rate porting out that base ?


Any thoughts or recomendations would be appreciated.

Thanks.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

I've ported probably a half dozen or so intakes, but this was the first Chevrolet version, and was definitely the easiest. I've actually welded extra aluminum onto some Ford EFI lower intakes to allow straightening of their severe "dog legs" in a few of the ports. On a scale of 1-10, for this one...easily a 1 IMHO...The best advice I can offer to a person who has never done any of this, is to not worry about HOGGING it OUT, instead just smooth what you have.

The Edelbrock was a very nice starting point, and doesn't need a lot of time consuming re-shaping or anything like that. I have about 4 hours into mine. Consider though, that I have a pretty much unlimited air supply, so there was no need for breaks or letting the compressor catch up.

I started with a few different carbidde "burrs" (aka bits). Some are 6" long, some are about 2-3" long. I use them to knock down the casting marks quickly, then follow up with sandpaper rolls. You can get the same results with generic sandpaper rolls, with a good bit more time but a LOT less risk, which is what I'd recommend for you to use as a newbie.

I "finish" the ports with 80 grit sandpaper rolls and my goal with any intake is to hopefully make sure that any transitions are as gentle as possible, and any ports either match, or are slightly smaller on the exits. In other words, you do not want WALLS or LIPS where the airflow transitions from one part of the intake tract to the next. It defeats the purpose. If I keep the stock heads on, then I will not touch the base's exits, as they're probably already a little bigger than the head's ports. Regardless, I will make the base's inlets the same size, or slightly larger than the AS&M runners exits. If it tapers down slightly at the cylinder head, IMHO, it won't hurt but should actually help with velocity. I'm more into torque than horsepower anyway. With a car that spends 90% of it's life at 2K-4K rpm's, you're crazy not to maximize that range if you can. JMO....

Any other questions, don't hesitate to post up or PM me with them. I'll share any info I can.

Good Luck.

FWIW, I had more trouble doing the plenum than the base. The plenum is loaded with obstacles that will be shredding your sandpaper rolls, lol...also, if you have a dremel or air powered die grinder, you can get a generic "port & polish" kit from Eastwood, Summit, or even Ebay for about $35 or so....

Demon355

iTrader: (1)

I was going to do the same thing to my intake base once the runners arrive which was port the inlets to match the runners. My outlet ports have already been smoothed/ported and so have my heads so I'm not worried about that. I've ported my plenum before, (I got another one that I will be porting again) but I was a little hesitant to port the base myself and was considering sending it out to get it done. I had a spare intake base somewhere but I can't seem to find it, might as well practice first

I love the torque aspect of these motors. Hauling *** off the line and surprising the hell out of the competition is awesome!

Phil, once I get my spare intake back, I'll let you know and maybe we can hit it a few times with my dremel to get some time in on a base...

neagan

iTrader: (7)

Having never done ANY port work before, I ended up spending close to 5 full hours working my stock plenum over. After I was done I read though a few of the archived posts and decided since I live in smog **** California, I wanted my final engine to visually look as stock as possible.

I ordered SLP runners, and an edelbrock base, called Mike Graycar, the owner of the CORVETTEPLENUM.COM mega porting service. The $345 service even included return shipping and his products look Hella' Sharp!!! I couldn't believe how much flashing debris and the lacking fit and finish that came on those SLP runners; Yuck!!

So for $345, Mike did the Mega Porting on the plenum, the SLP runners, turned the runners over and opened them up to match the edelbrock base! Plus he bead blasted them all to match so it will be much easier to hit them with clearcoat when they arrive back!

Check out his website: Home Even if you want to do the grinding yourself; he has big clear pic's that you can copy from. Also, Car Craft has been putting together a white Firebird this season (very-very slowly) and used Mike's product for their TPI system. They're supposed to be posting the Dyno numbers that allegedly come very close to the SR's flow ability!

rel3rd: It sounds like you might be the first one of this group to have your 'vette put together with the new intake. Will you let us know what you really think about the investment of cash & time, and get us some comparison numbers???? I'd like to know even if your fuel mileage actually changes! Unfortunately with my 88 IROC, I'll be putting the parts on a new engine and thus unable to compare what my old L98 felt (Other than the bullet to the head I'm about to give it....)

Interestingly, some of my ******* cousin's in southern Idaho took their chevy block, opened up the heads and dropped a stick of dynomite on each side, threaded the fuse line out the spark plug holes and let it rip!!!! Wish I could attatch the video!!! Ha!
Nitro

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

sorry to dig this up...I wanted to post an update for anyone still interested.

Some of the plan has been changed.

Instead of waiting any longer for the other runners, I got a set of SLP's and am about done opening them up to better match the Edelbrock base, as well as siamesing them myself.

This where I'm at so far:

http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1381.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1377.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1379.jpg

I'll probably go a little deeper with the siamesing. Right now I'm in just over 2.5", maybe 2.75"...

I also grabbed a set of Hedman Elite longtubes:
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1382.jpg

I also decided to get a set of the "new" Summit (aka TFS) 170cc intake runner/69cc exhaust runner 62cc chamber aluminum heads (2.02/1.60 valves) instead of wasting the better intake setup on stock iron heads. These supposedly flow 240@.500"...My theory on using these heads: They were only $950, they are made by TFS, and if they flow near (or even a little lower than) what they advertise, my modded TPI intake setup "should" match it well. I actually ordered (& cancelled) a set of AFR 180's, because I highly doubt I'd ever ingest enough air to make them worthy of their $450 in extra expense. Basically, I bought these heads instead, and had enough left over to buy the headers, and all the gaskets to put everything together.

http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1387.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1388.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1389.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/...2/site1390.jpg

Happy New Year to everyone.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Looking good so far. Have you done any calculations as to what your runner length needs to be for your peak power rpm. You may not be to far off now.

Also reading through the thread I did not see what cam you are running?

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.
No calculations...I've just been kinda "wingin it"...
Don't even know what I'd use, or where to find any info to find where they "should" be.
Cam will more than likley be stock with my 1.6 rockers...although I may, "may" swap in something mild.

Mild, because as I also forgot to add, the car will also be converted to an A4 with a pretty mild 2500 stall converter, so I can't/won't go too big on the camshaft...

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Here is a cam that will get all that you can out of your setup and maintain an excellant idle with very good vacuum. You would have to run 1.5 roller rockers not the 1.6 as shown on the specs. Also I would use the GM head gasket that is .028" thick to up your compression some.

Also you might want to consider having the heads shaved a little to up the compression. If you are sticking with the stock pistons you will have 9.3:1 compression with those heads. With the thinner head gasket and shaving the heads you will want around 10:1 compression.

Here is a link to the cam I think you ought to run.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

You said you had a TPI engine. I assumed it had a roller cam??????

Guest

I think there'd be some conflict between that cam and those Summit heads he has... unless you started machining things.

Drac0nic

This was something I did a while back, check it out. If you have access to or can get access to the stuff to do it, the gaskets are about $20 for the plenum/TB, and $15 for the lower manifold gaskets. Also keep in mind you may wanna budget in for fuel injector O-rings in case yours are bad when you pull them. Also, the felpro runner gaskets were on the small side stock and will absolutely not work with the porting I did, you need the MRG-146 or similar gaskets. I took some degreaser and everything down to the quarter wash when I was done to clean all the aluminum powder off.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking maybe we aren't on the same page...
The 85 I have came stock with a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft, and iron heads. Stock, it came with a .021" compressed thickness steel shim head gasket, along with 76cc chambers for a 9:1 compression ratio. Unless my math is way off, I will have 10:1 (or very close) with a .038" head gasket and the new heads 62cc chambers. I "may" use the GM head gaskets, but need to really consider how far I want to push it as far as compression ratio goes. I know (or THINK) LT1's have 11:1, but they also have better head cooling as far as I can tell. I know I'm safe at 10:1, but we'll see if that changes.
----------
I agree. See above madmax. Not to mention, if I wanted that high of lift, I'd probably be using "bigger" heads too.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

hmmm....for some reason my intake pics disappeared, so I re-loaded them for anyone who wants to look...

Ported throttle body entry point:
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/media/373752/site1385.jpg

Siamesed plenum: (I've done a little more "opening" to match the runners, as well as some "finishing" since this pic but you get the idea.)
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/media/373752/site1386.jpg

Edelbrock base runner entry points: (still need to be slightly blended/chamfered)
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/media/373752/site1384.jpg

Edelbrock base to head mating area: (notice it's not "hogged out" like some like to do. This port fits new head port near perfectly)
http://home.comcast.net/~rel3rd/wsb/media/373752/site1383.jpg

Also worth mentioning, Drac0nic, the MRG-146 gaskets are easily cut to fit and don't have the steel inside of them. Much easier to work with...

Frank 84 Bird

What did you use to port the runners? I have some carbide bits and 120 grit sanding rolls for my die grinder anything else you'd recommend.

Thanks
Frank

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Just for the record the cam I recommended has the lift shown with 1.6 rocker arms. If you were to use 1.5 rocker arms it would come right at the max lift of your Summit heads.

rel3rd

iTrader: (1)

Frank, I have about eight different carbide burrs. I use whatever one fits the area I want to change. For finishing up, I use 80 grit sandpaper rolls...also various different shapes. It's time consuming and noisy, dirty work, but I do all my stuff at work during breaks and downtime.