Odd starting procedure L98 and loss of power
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From: Sweden
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock 2.77
Odd starting procedure L98 and loss of power
Hi everyone,
a swedish 1988 IROC neeed your help...
Background:
I've recently changed my leaking injectors and put in Ford SVO D9B's which I was told was the correct replacement for my L98.
In the process I changed FPR to an adjustable Holley regulator (Part.nr:512-501) and put on a Accel fuel pressure gauge.
The problem:
When I turn the key it starts right up, gets to about 1000-1200 rpms, then rpms drop and it dies. This happens the first two attempts, and on the third it starts and runs like normal...
It also doesn't feel as powerful as it used to when I really step on it.
Can someone point me in the right direction to solve this please?
//Per
a swedish 1988 IROC neeed your help...

Background:
I've recently changed my leaking injectors and put in Ford SVO D9B's which I was told was the correct replacement for my L98.
In the process I changed FPR to an adjustable Holley regulator (Part.nr:512-501) and put on a Accel fuel pressure gauge.
The problem:
When I turn the key it starts right up, gets to about 1000-1200 rpms, then rpms drop and it dies. This happens the first two attempts, and on the third it starts and runs like normal...
It also doesn't feel as powerful as it used to when I really step on it.
Can someone point me in the right direction to solve this please?
//Per
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,015
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
This sounds much more like a faulty bad coolant temp switch for the cold start injector or a failing cold start injector.
Possible vaccum leak issue could cause the same as well.
Triple check the work you did and test the appropriate switch/sensor and injecotor for the cold start.
I would have to "guess" your problem lies in one of the two.
Possible vaccum leak issue could cause the same as well.
Triple check the work you did and test the appropriate switch/sensor and injecotor for the cold start.
I would have to "guess" your problem lies in one of the two.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock 2.77
So today I got some time to spend on the car...
It's in storage for the winter so I can't drive it, but I started it and let it warm up really good.
The fuel pressure when priming with engine off is 38 psi. Fuel pressure with engine running at idle is 36 psi with vacuum connected and 45 psi with vacuum plugged. Is this OK?
I noticed that when unplugging the vacuum when the engine was cold made it run really rough but after it warms up unplugging it just increases the rpm's a little...
I then searched for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner but found nothing.
Because of how the car is parked in storage I could not get to the CTS in the back of the engine, so I measured the sensor I could reach on the intake before the MAF. I got 4550 ohms with an air temp of about 7-8 degrees celcius but I don't know what it should read at that temp? Anyone..?
//Per
It's in storage for the winter so I can't drive it, but I started it and let it warm up really good.
The fuel pressure when priming with engine off is 38 psi. Fuel pressure with engine running at idle is 36 psi with vacuum connected and 45 psi with vacuum plugged. Is this OK?
I noticed that when unplugging the vacuum when the engine was cold made it run really rough but after it warms up unplugging it just increases the rpm's a little...
I then searched for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner but found nothing.
Because of how the car is parked in storage I could not get to the CTS in the back of the engine, so I measured the sensor I could reach on the intake before the MAF. I got 4550 ohms with an air temp of about 7-8 degrees celcius but I don't know what it should read at that temp? Anyone..?
//Per
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