Well...I've been thinking about this for a while now. So, I have the holley stealthram and the IAT sensor is the coolant sensor that's metal and inside the plenum. So, one thing is its metal so once hot...it says hot. Two, its inside the plenum so the air reading isn't accurate. This is my thinking....howell-efi makes a IAT sensor mod that makes it possible to switch from the metal sensor to the LT1 plastic sensor. So, with that and moving it from the plenum to the air filter...I think the advantage will be a tremedous difference in a more stable AFR reading on restarts after the engine gets hot and WOT/cruise. So, what y'all think?

 

The aftermarket makes a kit for corvettes to do that,just call a corvette catalog place and they'll get you the wires with plugs.Eckler's is one,mid america,or corvette central anyone will be glad to sell you one.You just need to tell them if your plug is a mushroom shape or square.

 

Preciate the info...I'll check those as well. I know Howell's is $35 with the harness and sensor.

 

If you truly understood how it worked and exactly what it does, you would not move it.

There is a lot more to it than simply placing it elsewhere in the airstream.

Check the actual code out or do some research on the prom board.

later
Jeremy

 

I went with this sensor in the stock location https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...mp-sensor.html

If your car is a MAF then there really is no point to swaping since I believe it's only used for Egr control, on MAP cars might help but you would need to change some things in the chip.

 

I do have speed density.

 

Yep exactly...however, in the Gen III engines, the IAT is mounted to the MAF. However, with the MAF...the IAT sensor is built into it but by moving it, they are seeing more consist air readings/consistant AFR/and they dropped a .1 in the 1/4 and their's ain't even in the plenum and getting heat soaked. Its more of a heat soak problem in my book then anything. So, this is more testing whether it will help the AFR stay consistant and air reading stay true than it being 50* at startup then after shutdown and restart after 30 mins at 210*.

 

What would you have to change in the chip?? The only thing I could think of is maybe some small tweaks to VE and PE. Besides that, am I missing something?

 

"Inverse MAT Lookup Delta Multiplier"

Good post on it here

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...?highlight=iat

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...t-weather.html

 

tpiparts.net has 1...i bought it for my car.

Well on street tires i went 14.2 then 13.9 then 13.8. Before i couldnt get better then a 14.2. I installed that piece a day before i went to the track. My sixty foot on the 14.2 was a 2.261 and my sixty for the 13.8 was a 2.13. My mph didnt change much...100.15 for the 14.2, 100.64 for the 13.8

so did it help? Yea i guess its possible it did a little bit. Though now (without i guess tuning for it) the computer thinks the temps are too low? and i get a code saying the voltage is too low or something..its annoying and my fuel mileage is beginning to suck)..no idea if this has anything to do with it, or maybe the sensor just went bad for real and i need to change it..not sure..
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oo and they days i couldnt break 14.2 was hot and humid as hell. Now that 14.2, 13.9 and 13.8 were run on a much much cooler day..around 75 degrees in florida

thats what i account my lower numbers for, but i guess the iat relocation didnt hurt.

The reason i did it was because my stock iat was reading 61 degrees celcius..

 

Exactly the reason i want to do it b/c my IAT after shutdown and restart is like 200+ and it doesn't cool off either which leans me out a little bit.

 

I read those articles...very interesting read. Looks like it'll be worth it but its all in the tune. Now the question becomes...do I keep it in the plenum so that it is gets more of a true reading of the air temp going into the cylinders or do I go for the cooler air so that it will add fuel/etc. Decisions...decisions. I'm working on a CAI for it and getting a street tune after Christmas break so.....tuning won't be a problem. Now, just got to weigh the options.

 

helped my car.... and why is everyone's answer on th TPI message board...
"why don't you try burning your own proms?" the average joe is going to be so lost in that crap.... there is no major hp in prom burning for TPI's.... it's a bunch of

 

Anybody that truly understands how an engine works and has taken the time to leanr how to tune can blow your arguement out of the water easily.

U sound burned or jealous you were unable to benefit from it.

Its like building a new IAT table when you relocate it, it can be done, but to do it truly right, it will take consdierable time and effort, but it will be right.

I have made some very good gains in horsepower, mileage and driveability over factory tuning. If you know how it all works and how it all relates to the other, its quite simple. Like anything else it has a learning curve.

I frequently tell people to investigate prom tuning because $$$ for $$$ it is one of the best mods u can do and then u can accomodate most tuning needs yourself. Its also easier to leanr the more stock the vehicle is.

later
Jeremy

 

I did the IAT relocation mod to my MAF-equipped TPI engines a zillion years ago when nobody built a ready-made kit. I won't say the car ran any faster, but it was more consistent from run to run and cold vs. hot. I don't know why that would be the case, but I found it to be true. On a speed-denisty motor I can imagine there would be greater benefits since the air temp has got to factor into the ECM's air density equations somehow.

I also didn't like the fact that sucker would read at "bake some muffins" temperatures after a hot restart and not really go back down to sanity very quickly. Actually, that was the reason I ever even tried relocating it in the first place.

 

 

Ok, I may be a little off here, but if you have the MAT in the plenum and have the PROM tuned to where the BLM's are very stable and the overall A/F ratio is on the money across the RPM range, then would there still be any benefit to moving the MAT/IAT to the air lid? Sounds to me like a bunch of work/time in table manipulation just to get back what you alreadly had (provided the tune was optimal to begin with when it was in the plenum).

 

I have the same MAF sensor running my TBI engine. It even has the IAT setup and running with it.