I JUST RECENTLY HAD CODE 15 CTS LOW AND 33 MAF. AT THAT POINT I DISCONNECTED THE CTS, CAR NOW RUNS AND RESTARTS, BUT RUNS REAL RUFF WITH SLIGHT BACKFIRES. I JUST CHANGED THE CTS AND RESET THE ECU. NO MORE CODES BUT STILL RUNS LIKE CRAP AND BACKFIRES, BUT CAR STARTS EVERYTIME. I JUST BOUGHT THE CAR SO I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT WAS DONE TO IT PREVIOUSLY. ALL I KNOW IS IT HAS HEADERS.


ANY IDEAS WELCOME. I JUST WANT TO BE ABLE TO DRIV IT. MY FIRST TUNEPORT AND I HAVEN'T EVEN BEEN ABLE TO ENJOY IT YET.



PLEASE HELP

 

is your timing right? what kinda engine you got?

 

305 TPI. IT RAN WHEN I FIRST GOT IT 4 DAYS AGO BUT HAD SERVICE LIGHT ON AND COULDN'T GO INTO GEAR WITHOUT STALLING. AT THAT TIME IT RAN SMOOTH BUT HIGH IDLE, HAD LITTLE HESITATION WHEN HIT GAS.

 

GEORGE!

STOP YELLING.. (turn off the CAPS lock.)

What year is the car? Unless it's a 1985, the MAF output voltage should not be anywhere near 5V at idle.

 

Didn't that was considered yelling. yeah its an 85. If i remeber correctly, first it read around 4.6, then i unhooked one of the 2 orange wires from the battery. ever since its been 5.29

 

Good. Now we're getting somewhere. The MAF on an '85 is a frequency modulated type. The output is a 5VDC square wave at varying frequency, increasing frequency with increased air flow. Later years used the analog MAF, with an output that varied in voltage depending upon air flow.

Measuring the output voltage on a digital (FM) type MAF will usually result in a fairly constant voltage indication between 2.5-5VDC. You really need to use a frequency counter, oscilloscope, or data scanner to read what the MAF is indicating.

As for the TPS, how are you reading voltage?

And you need to address the CTS problem to solve that code, too. The CTS could be disconnected, or it might be a sensor problem.