Hey guys, I got my engine running this past week. Seems to run pretty good. Though I have a few questions maybe you can help with.

1. My fuel pressure is steady at 37psi. If I take the vaccum line off it goes right to 47psi. That is where I thought it should be. It also holds pressure for about ten, or fifteen minutes before it drops to nothing. Is this all normal?

2. My idle is running at about 1000 rpm's. If I let it run for a while, revving it on ocassion, it will drop to around 650 or 700. I am told it needs to be around 500. All this was done in park. So I go through the proscess of adjusting the idle. Jumping the a and b pins then letting the IAC motor do its thing (by the way, it never seems to stop doing its thing?) Then I pull the harness on the IAC. I then go to start the motor and it wont keep running. It fires then dies right away. Any thoughts?

3. Would my fast idle be causing my code 33? I've checked my relay, voltage at the MAF. I read on the board that intake ducting can make a difference. I have a three foot long tube with a cone filter that runs to my MAF then into the TB. I got the flow cart faxed to me, but I can read some of the checks, so maybe I'm missing on of the tests I need to do. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks for all the help you've given me.

 

37 psi is what I get at idle which is about right. At full throttle, you should see about 45psi. The bleed down needs to be looked at. Check for leaks at all connections you should not loose that much pressure that quick.

The idle is about right too. Mine idles around 600 in drive and about 700 in park.

As for the code 33, I would check the TPS sensor first. take a volt meter and check to see that you are getting around .48 to .54 volts. If this shows too low a voltage in reference to what the MAF is seeing, it could set a code.

 

Do a search on the 33 error code, for a post response by me.

 

I adjusted my TPS. The original voltage was something like .150. Super low. I thought for sure that was my problem. I adjusted it to .55 which is in the middle of where I was last told. The light came back on. I also have no outward fuel leaks. Could it be bypassing at the pressure regulator? Maybe an injector leaking off? No matter where my pressure is at, it always cranks for about 5 seconds before it fires, but my fuel pump kicks in when in the run position.

I did a search for the code 33 and found a million "code" posts. I couldn't find yours doc. Could you please be more specific?

 

OK, once again,
The 33 error code is set when all three conditions below exist at the same time:
1) engine under 2,000 RPM,
2) MAF reading over 45 gms/sec, and
3) less than 25% throotle. (so the TPS idle setting is important here)
The only way that I could get rid of the 33 error code permanently was to "burn" a chip.

Concerning your fuel pressure: the value seems OK, but you should hold fuel pressure for at least 2 hours. Since it is bleeding down in 10 minutes, either the FPR or an injector is leaking. Someone on here posted a method of determining which one. Do a search.

Concerning engine idle speed: the engine speed should come down to 750 RPM quickly, not taking 1 or 2 minutes, and not having to punch the throotle.

It seems that you have several unrelated issues. I recommend cleaning up the entire intake system, IAC, send out the injectors for cleaning, complete complete tune-up, resetting TPS & idle air control, timing, etc.

 

Argh, last time I had a code 33, it got expensive real quick. I had:

Bad MAF, bad ECM, and 2 bad relays.

Relays are dirt cheap, you can get them for 10 to 12 bux each. Replace the MAF burnoff relay and the MAF power relay. See if that helps. If the ECU is bad, a reman replacement will run around 120 bux. If the MAF is bad, 200 bux for a reman.

 

Same with me. I had a bad MAF and relay as well as bad injectors with the same fuel pressure gremlins as you had. Definitely check out your injectors.

 

45gma/sec?
I took my scan tool back to work, but if I remember right, I had a four digit number. I want to say 3??? or maybe it was 3??.?
Is there a down side to reprograming the chip to get rid of the code for ever?
Thanks.

 

Concerning the reprogramming the chip.... No issues. I did this for a guy who drove his car to me. He went away a very happy camper.

To check the MAF, carefully remove the rear screen, shine a flash lite in there and check if the very fine wire is broken. If its broken, the MAF is diffinately bad.

 

Since a broken MAF hot wire will drop the output voltage to zero, it isn't likely that a MAF with a cracked wire will generate a '33' error. You can verify the MAF by simply measuring the output voltage directly at the MAF between terminals 'C' and 'B'. Regardless of how much the signal may be affected by the wire harness or ECM itself, this method will prove whether the MAF is viable. A scanner only reports what the ECM thinks it is reading.

 

I was able to use a flow chart to tell me my sensor was bad. I'm working on getting a new one now.

Now I have another problem:

After installing the engine and hooking everything up I went to start it for the first time. Nothing happened. Did some checks and picked up a distributor module. After installing the new module the engine fired right up. This is when I started playing with my 33 code. After about a week of playing with it in my driveway I took it around the block, still with the 33 code on. Parked it in the driveway then ten minutes later I started it agian to put it in the garage. Shifted to drive and the engine died and would not start. I left the key on and checked around the engine bay. Shortly after that I heard cracking sounds and then smoke from the back of the engine. I shut it down and felt the coil, which was pretty hot to the touch, as well as the ignition hot wire to the coil. I did the ohm tests on the coil and they all pasted, but today I replaced it anyway. It did not start. I took the distributor cap off and found a melted pastic bubble on the module right behind the P terminal going to the pickup coil inside the distributor. So I burned up the new module.
So I bought this engine with a burnt up module and then ran the engine for a week before burning up another one. Any ideas as to the cause? The pick up coil ohms out at 800 and does not go to ground. The star wheel in the distributor looks pretty rusty, but I feel no slop in it.
Sorry this is long winded, and thanks for your help.
Josh.

 

Bump.

Any thoughts on this one?

 

I just burned up a brand new distributor module. Never even tried to fire. Just turned the key on and cranked over. Then nothing. Took the module out and saw that it was melted just like the last one. Any thougts?