Sorry if this is a repost but i havent been able to find out the correct way to replace the valve stem seals that i understand. I have done some engine work befor, i have replaced the gaskets allthe way down to my lower intake manifold, so i have a pretty good grip on my motor. Although i never touched the heads. My car has puffed blue smoke on stat up for quite some time i have felt like it is time to replace the valve stem seals. Now my question is, is there anyway to replace the seals by keeping the heads on. I dont want to take them off if i dont have to. I have heard of the spring compressor but if i do that with the heads on i risk the chance of dropping the valve in the motor, but i heard of the way with some type of air compressor fitting. Im not too fimiliar with that but im always up for something new. ANy instructions would help or where to get them.


If you can help it would be appreaciated. also a part number would be good for intake and exhaust.

I have searched for hours with no luck. please help me.

 

I have always adapted a hose from a compression tester to my air compressor and used compressed air into the cylinder to hold the valve closed. I have always used normal shop air 90-100 psi and never dropped a valve. Pull the plugs, the hole you are doing ot BDC, apply the air and have at the seals. I found it is a also a way to see if you have any air leakage out of the intake indicating possible leakage past a valve.

 

thanks i will have to give it a try it makes more sense to me now.

 

step 1: Buy your seals: fel pro#72527 for both intake and exhaust valves. These are positive seal and work better than umbrellas.

Step 2: Buy or rent a valve spring compressor and a air holder. DO NOT buy the "powerhouse" brand compressor from Kragens. You will regret this. The air hold screws into the spark plug hole and uses air from your compressor to keep the valves up. I used 40 psi-valves dont fall very easily b/c theyre usually caked in crud. An alternate mehtod is to insert a bunch of rope in the cylinder. I passed on that one.

Step 3: Remove your valve covers. Before you start, give the top of the spring (the retainer and lock) a good wack with a hammer. This will help loosen the lock from the retainer. Pull the plugs out of the cylinder youre starting on and put the air hold in with whatever psi your using. Compress the spring enough to expose the locks, then remove them with a magnet. Pull the spring out-it may be difficult. I also chose to replace my springs with comp 981's at this point.

Step 4: remove the offending seal. clean the valve stem and lightly oil it and the lip of the new seal. A tip to press the seals on and save you thumbs is to use a 10mm deep socket to push them down good. Put the new o-ring on the valve stem and put the spring back on, compress and out locks on. Repeat for 15 others!!

 

Make sure that the valve spring compressor you buy or rent is suitable for use with the heads on the car (ie. not the giant C-clamp type).

To avoid lashing the valves when you're done, don't remove the rocker nuts. Use a breaker bar (not a socket or wrench) with a hinged head and count how many half-turns of the rocker nut it takes before you can rotate the rocker out of the way. When you're finished with the valve, turn the rocker nut back down by the same number of half-turns.

 

Thanks alot this has really helpped me. Glad for all the information.