air filter baffers
Advantage: Easier path for air to enter engine (more HP)
Disdvantage: Easier path for water to enter engine (mucho $$$ if that happens)
For the record, not only did I remove the baffles, but the entire bottom of my airbox. Just go SLOW through big puddles =)
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Edwin
1986 IROC, 1992 Body Kit, 1989 5.7 IROC Engine, Crane Cam, 3" CVX Exhaust, ADS Superchip, 24# FoMoCo Injectors, Gutted Cat, AFPR (45 psi), Airfoil, 3.42 Gears, MAF Screens removed, Gutted Airbox, K&N Filters
Disdvantage: Easier path for water to enter engine (mucho $$$ if that happens)
For the record, not only did I remove the baffles, but the entire bottom of my airbox. Just go SLOW through big puddles =)
------------------
Edwin
1986 IROC, 1992 Body Kit, 1989 5.7 IROC Engine, Crane Cam, 3" CVX Exhaust, ADS Superchip, 24# FoMoCo Injectors, Gutted Cat, AFPR (45 psi), Airfoil, 3.42 Gears, MAF Screens removed, Gutted Airbox, K&N Filters
Two questions about the airboxes...
1) How much more air is let in? Can you feel the difference in power?
2) Is the threat of water getting into the engine that great? I'm sure that the engine can handle alittle moisture.
1) How much more air is let in? Can you feel the difference in power?
2) Is the threat of water getting into the engine that great? I'm sure that the engine can handle alittle moisture.
I got .2 faster in the 1/4mile with the good old Spare tire/jack trick With the baffels and filters removed I havent punched out the bottom of the boxs just un bolted the baffels I didnt feel anymore power but it was faster I guess that could have been my shift points. in a 305 you dont have enough CID to make the baffels them selfs a bottle neck in the system. I just took mine out track side for $hits and giggles. Now going with a full ram air set-up(gutted air boxes,ducts from the fog light holes to the boxes, and some K&N filters) would help I dont think that Its worth taking them out on the street they are there for a reason. Power gains from this(just baffels-and filters) would be small say 1 or 2 horse and you would never feel that. but the ram air is worth a good 10 horse that you could feel. Another thing to look at is if you have MAF or SD motor any mods that improve the flow of the motor are better on a mass air flow motor (it messures the incoming air where as speed density draws of pre-recorded tables) so this was a little longer then planed but I think it will help you out.
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Ya sure it is just an RS
B4Cyaa
1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car 1 of 3
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 383 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
------------------
Ya sure it is just an RS
B4Cyaa
1991 RS B4C
Former Nebraska Highway Patrol Car 1 of 3
305 TPI
WC T-5
Four Wheel Disk Brakes
Only Options
Rear Defrost
Am-Fm Radio
Red-int White-exe
One BA Of A 383 In The Works
Mods
Dynomax Cat Back (to hold me over till I got the $$$ for the Borla)
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
From: Apple Valley, MN
Car: 92 Z28 convertible
Engine: Miniram 383
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 stk 10 bolt
On my car I have the boxes cut out. And in the last 3 years Ive never had a problem with water at all. A trick I found out at the srtip is that I take the filters completely out! One night I got 2 mph from it!
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Convertible, L98, Edelbrock intake, runners & TES, SLP cam, Thin Head gaskets, March underdrive pulleys, Fastchips custom chip, Accel 300+ ignition, Relocated MAT sensor, TPIS airfoil & AFPR, K&N airfilters W/ chopped airboxs, Dynomax high flo cat, Flowmaster exhaust, MAC subframe connectors, B&M shift kit & XMSN cooler and NOS!!
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Convertible, L98, Edelbrock intake, runners & TES, SLP cam, Thin Head gaskets, March underdrive pulleys, Fastchips custom chip, Accel 300+ ignition, Relocated MAT sensor, TPIS airfoil & AFPR, K&N airfilters W/ chopped airboxs, Dynomax high flo cat, Flowmaster exhaust, MAC subframe connectors, B&M shift kit & XMSN cooler and NOS!!
My baffles are removed however, this is my daily driver and I am not going to gut my airboxes for fear of water.
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TPI 305,
Gutted airboxes,
gutted MAF,
K&N filters,
Corvette Servo.
14.9@93mph
"Speed kills, wanna live forever, drive a Ford."
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TPI 305,
Gutted airboxes,
gutted MAF,
K&N filters,
Corvette Servo.
14.9@93mph
"Speed kills, wanna live forever, drive a Ford."
Trending Topics
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
Does anyone have a pic of these baffles and the stock air intake? Mine came already removed and cut out, and I have no idea what it looked like stock.
I also remove my air filters at the track, when its not windy. I gain 1-2 MPH from it. But be careful if the track is dirty, you dont want "dirty" air entering your intake! I leave my air filters in at those tracks.
------------------
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-
I also remove my air filters at the track, when its not windy. I gain 1-2 MPH from it. But be careful if the track is dirty, you dont want "dirty" air entering your intake! I leave my air filters in at those tracks.
------------------
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Kevin91Z and others........
Here are some pics I took of a TPI 'filter box' assembly:
Here is the underside of the 'box' that houses one of the filters:
Here one of the splash guards is shown removed while the other is still in place:
As a side note I did some measuring and calculations. What I found is that with all four splash guards in place the 'effective' total air opening 'window' area beneath the filters is 14.38 square inches. With the guards removed you pick up some additional area due to the splash guard flanges being gone(see pics at link below). Removing the guards yields 16.25 square inches of total air opening 'windows' below the filters. This an increase of just over 13%. In reality I dont think one would gain 13% in air flow due to the poor geometry(all the turns and bends the air flow must make). However, removing the splash guards will help by removing the 'S' turn the air flow has to take to get past them.
Here is that link I refered to:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...7661&a=9246919
More to come on this!
Mike
[This message has been edited by WECoyote (edited October 07, 2000).]
Here are some pics I took of a TPI 'filter box' assembly:
Here is the underside of the 'box' that houses one of the filters:
Here one of the splash guards is shown removed while the other is still in place:
As a side note I did some measuring and calculations. What I found is that with all four splash guards in place the 'effective' total air opening 'window' area beneath the filters is 14.38 square inches. With the guards removed you pick up some additional area due to the splash guard flanges being gone(see pics at link below). Removing the guards yields 16.25 square inches of total air opening 'windows' below the filters. This an increase of just over 13%. In reality I dont think one would gain 13% in air flow due to the poor geometry(all the turns and bends the air flow must make). However, removing the splash guards will help by removing the 'S' turn the air flow has to take to get past them.
Here is that link I refered to:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...7661&a=9246919
More to come on this!
Mike
[This message has been edited by WECoyote (edited October 07, 2000).]
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