would a bad pickup coil make the car just die, and not resart? fuel pressure is fine, and no codes. it starts fine , but after 10 minutes it dies and wont resart for a few minutes.
how can i test it,, please explain in detail,, thanks

 

The pick up coil generates a signal voltage ....i believe the correct value is 1500 ohms cold...to test it remove the plug from the module then using a ohm meter ck the coil.Then using a hair dryer heat it up ....if changes alot...like it goes open ...or most likely drops way low the winding insulation is bad and it needs replacement ...cheap part...easy to change

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87GTA,350,Auto,MAF screens removed,195 thermostat,cold start injector UNPLUGED,K&N,modified air intake,ADSchip,3:70s,3inch cat back Flowmaster single outlet,TPS.54,Bosch Plat plugs,base timing 6BTDC,22 MPG,what a ROACH,Bilstiens in the rear....,don't let yer meat loaf

 

What's the pickup coil and where is it located?

 

It's an $8 part under the distributor cap and rotor, and the pole piece rotates around it and generates a signal through the coil, which lets the ignition module know when to fire. It has a green and white wire running to it from the ignition module, and basically looks like a little donut. Ron, it may be heat soak or something like that in your ignition coil. Does it always do that?

 

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It's an $8 part under the distributor cap and rotor, and the pole piece rotates around it and generates a signal through the coil, which lets the ignition module know when to fire. It has a green and white wire running to it from the ignition module, and basically looks like a little donut
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Does MSD or Accel sell this part and what's the part number. My distributor is acting up and I'm pretty sure this little S6IT is the cause.
Thanks for your help
Rick

 

JETHRO,
yes it always dies after about 10 minutes.. do you think it is heat related?? how do i test the pu coil?.

[This message has been edited by ron rizzotti (edited November 15, 2000).]

 

For the price, go ahead and change it.I had a car do the same thing for a few days and after changing everything but the pikup coil I found out that was the problem,and yes heat in electrical parts is a big factor.

 

Y'all say this is an easy job. But you have to remove and disassemble the distributor to replace the pickup coil, don't you? I don't consider that to be an easy job. Perhaps you're talking about the ignition module, not the pickup coil...

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'87 IROC 5.7l TPI - original owner!

 

How do I replace this pick up coil thingy?

 

I need somebody to answer my last post please. My car is running like crap and I want to get it fixed before i go to the track. Does anyone know if MSD or Accel make this part? How do i install it?
Thanks

 

I know Accel makes it, not sure about MSd...

Pull the ditributor, remove the cap, rotor and reluctor.

know the rollpin out that holds in the gear.

Slide the shaft up.

Now you have access to the PU coil.

 

thanks a lot mike......i didn't know it would be so complicated
thanks again

 

That's the "easy" part. The gear's pressed on (moderately tight fit) and has to be pressed off, but can be driven off if properly supported. If you don't mark the location before removing it, you're screwed, too. Then, when "pressing" it back on, getting the holes in the gear and shaft can be quite difficult. You might have to remove and reinstall it a couple or more times to get the holes to line up. Slight misalignment can be corrected while the roll pin is driven back in (it will move the gear a little).

Oh, then there's the matter of reinstalling the distributor. You have to have the teeth in exactly the same place as when you took it out. You did mark the position of the rotor before pulling the distributor, didn't you (how could you with the cap still on)? Even if you get the teeth properly engaged, the oil pump driver might not engage, preventing you from dropping the distributor all the way in. In that case, you'll have to bump the engine over until it lines up and the distributor drops on down.
Now you've turned the engine and the rotor is pointing somewhere else. Is it one tooth off? You won't know until you try to start it!

This ain't easy, especially for a novice!

You must remove the cap before doing anything else. Mark where the rotor is pointing on the housing. Also mark the housing to line it up with something nearby (spot on manifold, mark on firewall, etc.). You might even want to get the engine at TDC #1. Once everything's disconnected you can loosen the hold-down bolt and slide the retainer back away from the distibutor. Without turning the distributor housing lift it straight up. As you do, you'll notice that the rotor will turn. This is because the gears are spiral cut. I suggest you make a second mark for the rotor once it stops turning. You see, that's where you want the rotor to be pointing when you go to stab the distributor back in later. You must make sure the housing itself is pointed correctly, too. The rotor will "twist" on in to line up with the first mark you made once the housing is seated on the intake manifold.

If you do this marking properly, the distributor should drop back in exactly as you removed it. The timing will be close enough to start the engine. If you still have to bump the engine to engage the oil pump, and you started with the engine at TDC #1, you can turn the engine on around to there again and check your marks. You'll obviously have to reset the timing, but's that's another story...



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'87 IROC 5.7l TPI - original owner!

 

[b] You must remove the cap before doing anything else. Mark where the rotor is pointing on the housing. Also mark the housing to line it up with something nearby (spot on manifold, mark on firewall, etc.). You might even want to get the engine at TDC #1. Once everything's disconnected you can loosen the hold-down bolt and slide the retainer back away from the distibutor. Without turning the distributor housing lift it straight up. As you do, you'll notice that the rotor will turn. This is because the gears are spiral cut. I suggest you make a second mark for the rotor once it stops turning. You see, that's where you want the rotor to be pointing when you go to stab the distributor back in later. You must make sure the housing itself is pointed correctly, too. The rotor will "twist" on in to line up with the first mark you made once the housing is seated on the intake manifold. [b/]

Actually, I have experience removing and replacing the distributor, even if it isn't marked (I learned the hard way). I will wait until I buy me a new Damper; I believe the stock one has the outer ring out of position (slipped) and is making timing adjustments harder than learning how to bull ride.
Rick

 

Stupid bald letters!!

&^$#*(*

 

F22, just find TDC of your #1 cylinder.. with a cool motor, remove the #1 plug wire and plug. Remove the coil wire, or disconnect the negative battery cable. Take a big, long, Phillip's head screwdriver, and put it in the spark plug hole gently until it touches the piston inside.

If you have a manual trans put it in neutral. Turn the crankshaft clockwise using a breaker bar on the big bolt in the center of the crank pulley. The screwdriver will start to raise. When it stops raising, you've got TDC.

Check the mark on your balancer; it should be at 0 degrees. If it's not, rotate the engine once more- the piston rises to the top for both exhaust and compression strokes. You need TDC for the compression stroke. So just spin the motor once more so the screwdriver drops & raises up... if the mark still doesn't line up with 0, the balancer's off.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

F22, just find TDC of your #1 cylinder.. with a cool motor, remove the #1 plug wire and plug. Remove the coil wire, or disconnect the negative battery cable. Take a big, long, Phillip's head screwdriver, and put it in the spark plug hole gently until it touches the piston inside.
If you have a manual trans put it in neutral. Turn the crankshaft clockwise using a breaker bar on the big bolt in the center of the crank pulley. The screwdriver will start to raise. When it stops raising, you've got TDC.

Check the mark on your balancer; it should be at 0 degrees. If it's not, rotate the engine once more- the piston rises to the top for both exhaust and compression strokes. You need TDC for the compression stroke. So just spin the motor once more so the screwdriver drops & raises up... if the mark still doesn't line up with 0, the balancer's off.

Actually, the way this is done is very similar to what you stated, but insted of a screwdriver, what you do is put your finger on the #1 hole and turn the engine until you feel the compression pushing your finger, then keep on going until it stops pushing; at this point the marks should be lined up or within a couple of deegres. Install distributor and set timing
The problem is when I do this, the groove on the damper is almost on the oppossite side.
Rick

 

Well, I've always preferred using the screwdriver, but you're right, and sounds like you do need a new balancer quick.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Yes I do need a balancer quick. What really convinced me that I need one is that when you take a closer look at the damper where the rubber filling is, you can see that the metal is pretty shiny, leading me to believe that the glue they use to put everything together (or whatever else) lost its grip. If it was a good damper, the metal just wouldn't be clean and shiny because it doesn't move. Also, a friend of mine had the outer ring on his balancer come right off (which by the way made the car quicker due to reduced rotating weight); so I guess is not that uncommon.
Thanks

 

A hint for helping relocate the dist when reinstalling. I took an old cap and cut the top half off. When I need to pull the dist I put this cap on, that way I can see what plug the rotor is pointing too (the half cap is numbered). Just hangs on the garage wall until needed. I think I used one of those crappy tan Accell caps that last like 10K miles

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Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI
92Z28convt5spd
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!

 

Damn! I missed alot in the past week! Sorry I didn't respond to your posts, F22 and ron. I had a bunch of stuff going on and just didn't get the time. Y'all got everything sorted out now?

 

That's a pretty good idea. It beats having to constantly lift and sit the cap to know where #1 is.
Thanks for the tip

 

Not to change the subject, but besides the pick-up coil, the ignition module could also make the car not run when it is warmed up. You can get this tested at the parts store, but if they test it when it's cold, it'll probably test ok. So either have them test it when it's hot, or have them test it several times to warm it up.