Just curious which one you bought, approx. price, etc.

I have looked in the summit book, and I believe what I want is the electrical gauges for fuel pressure 0-100 PSI. It does not say if it comes with an isolator, but the price is nearly double the 0-15 PSI gauge, so I assume so.

Comments?

Mark.

 

I've got Autometer's Sport Comp 3363 full sweep 2 1/16" electrical fuel pressure (0-100psi) guage along with a matching trans temp gauage mounted onmy A-pillar.

The guage comes with the sender/isolator unit mounted under the hood. It also comes with the black box that goes under the dash.

Summit doesn't show it in the catalog, but they do sell/stock it. They sell it for 179.95, pricey but worth it for me.

Also got the Autometer fuel pressure line kit 3227, but would have made up my own, except all of the parts/materials I had were for -6 & -8 hosing.

Also, at the advice of NickD, procured a swivel nut 90 deg elbow for attaching to teh fuel rail fitting so that the hose can be positioned for routing. Made the installation easy.

------------------
KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

 

the isolator is supposed to allow you to run a mechanical gauge inside the car. If you ask me, it's not mechanical unless it's going directly from the fuel rail, to the gauge.

With that said, the 1 1/6 electric fuel pressure gauge is $84.99 from Summit. Autometer Pro Comp.

------------------
91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6

Paxton 6# SN92 polished kit, Ford SVO 24#injectors, Crane AFPR,SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March alt. pulley,Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL (5400rpm limit),Holley 9mm wires,Ac delco R43ts plugs,stock chip,Bosch O2sensor,SLP 1 5/8" headers,SLP catback,shortened shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,180* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.

 

by the way, that price includes the sender and fittings. The only thing you'll need is a 90degree brass fitting available at any hardware store.

 

i use a gage on the fuel rail and one in the
car its an autometer they work great
for me
check out my simple page at:
http://darcom.home.texas.net/

 

DARCOM

How can you fit a guage both inside the car and on the rail? Just wondering as I want this setup.


Robert

------------------
1987 IROC-Z Auto (LB9)
Black/grey interior with the stance of a streetfighter

Mods
Custom exhaust. 4 Inch pipe from the headders all the way back to a single muffler at the rear. No Cat.

Future mods due in March:
K&Ns
RAM Air
Air foil
AFPR

Hoping to get a couple of tenths with that lot

 

I had a mechanical gauge inside the car for a while, but got tired of working around the braided steel lines every time I had a wiring or other change I wanted to make.

IMO, I highly recommend the electrical gauge... A lot less plumbing involved, and if you have ever had to "purge" the air out of your isolator, or dealt with a gauge that had a pulsation problem, you would probably agree.

After you purchase all the lines, isolator, fittings, and wrangle the whole thing into your application, you probably would spend the same amount on an electrical setup even though the electrical setup has a higher initial cost, the convenience factor far outweighs the difference.

------------------
Mike Metzler (Desert86Roc)[*] Webmaster: SpeedWorldMotorplex.com[*] Click Here For 86 IROC 305 TPI (406 build in progress) Page

ET's @ 1250 ft[*] 14.28 @ 95.461 mph (uncorrected, NOS, no headers)[*] 15.365 @ 86.785 mph (uncorrected, headers, no NOS)





[This message has been edited by Desert86Roc (edited March 26, 2001).]

 

RMK
i had bought a nos system that fit on the
fuel rail and insted of and instead of going
straigt to the silinoid i put a couple T fitting
you can buy from any auto parst store
thin i put the isolator and fuel gage on the
T.
then ran the isolator hose to the gage in my
dash.
i have a small pic of it in my motor pics
on my web page
http://darcom.home.texas.net/darcom/MOTOR4.html
im not sure if this link will work but you
can still get to it from here:
http://darcom.home.texas.net/

 

DARCOM- that was a good idea, and saves a lot of money, I was actually planning to do the same thing with a T-fitting, but I couldnt find one to match the 4-AN lines, I went to several different auto parts stores, hardware stores, etc, so I finally just decided to order one up from NOS, a purge line T fitting I think, but if anyone ever plans on putting a gague inside their car use DARCOM's idea, it will save you lots of cash, I think the purge part that I ordered cost me somewhere in the range of 25 bucks

 

Im curious....how do you "wire up" a electronic fuel pressurge gauge????

Dan

 

I got the Nordskog digital sender and gauge from Summit. I think it was $90 together. What I ended up doing was drilling a hole in one of the crossover pipes in the fuel rail, welding a block to it, and drilling and tapping it to fit the sender. It all fits under the plenum and leaves my schrader available should I need it.