When I just changed my spark plugs, which were quite new and seemed to be working fine, I noticed that there was a lot of oil on the threads. Not just to see, but you could actually take it off with your finger. The car has only ran about 20 miles recently and before that was sitting for 2 years, could this contribute? How could I locate the problem and seperate the possiblities from top and bottom end without taking the engine out or totally apart Thanks very much, I just really want to make sure everything is good before riding it again.

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87 GTA 350 L98
K&N filters, beefed up TH-700r4, Accel Manifold, Ported Plenum and Runners, Fuel Press. Regulator 49.5psi, air foil, modified MAF, SLP cold air box, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/160 thermostat, MSD 6AL and Blaster 3, B&M shift kit & megashifter, Moser Ford 9in Rear with Richmond 3.50 and locker, Edlebrock TES headers and Cat Back,Hotchkis setup in rear, Poly suspension and Koni in the front, relocated MAT, bypassed IAC, 300 lbs lighter

Fastest ET's
Stock-0-60 6.8, 1/4 15.0 @ 94
Best-0-60 4.7, 1/4 12.8 @ 112
Norm-0-60 5.2, 1/4 13.2 @ 108

 

I have the exact same problem. Does your car hesitate when you start it up and push down on the gas pedal sometimes? I think that may be because I have oil on the tip of the spark plug as well. Take a look at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/servicemmy.cfm. There are two service bulletins that may apply to you. They are 89675 and 89-6-2. I know they apply to mine. Let me know if you find a solution to your problem.

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'89 Firebird Formula-
K&N Air Filter, Holley Throttle Body Air Foil, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace, Hotchkis Panhard Rod, Hotchkis Trailing Arms, Kenny Brown Subframe Connectors, GT Auto Assesories aero wing, steering brace


It's mind over matter. I don't mind because you don't matter.

 

It could be blown valve seals. That is what causes some oil to drip down into the chambers and can leave oil residue on the plugs. Are you positive it is oil and not just carbon deposits from combustion?

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 HOT Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Soon to Come: 7.625" 10 Bolt with 3.42s and Accel TPI Intake Base

 

I am pretty sure it is oil, it's watery and I could wipe it off with my finger. I am going to do a compression test and try to seperate the rings from the valve seals. Thanks.

 

I also noticed this problem. I just changed valve seals when I put on roller rockers only 5000 miles ago. Is there something else it could be my compression is fine also. I only checked a couple of plugs a couple of days ago will try to check then all in a couple of days kinda a pain with headers.

 

GTA,

If the car sat for two years, the plugs are really not that new. They might have very few miles, but may have been installed long enough fo the oil to collect there. If you are using synthetic oil, it can wick along the inner and outer surfaces of the heads and weep through the plug threads.

Is there also a thin coating of oil on the outside of the head, near the spark plug recesses?

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
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