My car has been doing this for a while now just it has gotten worse recently. The car pulls fine to 2500 rpm and after that wants to stutter a bit like it's losing power all the way to redline. There were times when I couldn't really notice it at all and then there were times when I could definitely tell it was misfiring or something. In the past couple of days, it has actually been so bad at times that the tach will actually start to jump around when it reaches 2500 rpm. The car stutters like crazy and is way down on power. Then after a few minutes it will stop doing it and be back to normal(well its still not normal but its back to how it was before) I am guessing it is definitely ignition related. Possibly the timing is off. I need to check that still when I get home. At school I really never have a chance to do anything on the car. If anyone has had a similar problem or if you have a suggestion as to why it is doing this intermittently then please speak up. Thanks

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1991 Z28 - 350 TPI, T56, McLeod street clutch, LT4 pressure plate, Pro 5.0 shifter, ported plenum & runners, AFPR, Holley Annihilator ignition box and wires, Hooker shorty headers w/o AIR, Flowmaster muffler, homeade ram-air, SSM subframe connectors, Kenny Brown STB, Global West steering box brace, Steve Spohn adjustable torque arm and T56 crossmember

 

I would check the timing first and make sure your distributor is secured, but other than that it's probably the pickup coil in the distributor or the ignition module.

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1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, Accel coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley AFPR, ported plenum,
Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, thick rubber floormats.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

 

Anyone else?

 

I had that problem three or four years ago It turned out to be the injectors. where theres no power above a certain rpm. it started at 4500 then ended up around 2500 very annoying to drive. All you do to check this, is get an Ohm meter and disconnect the wirering from the injector put one probe on one tab and one on the other. All of them should be fairly close in readings mine i think were around 1.2 omhs and the two bad ones were like 1.7