Does anyone have any pictures and/or links for a "home made" cold air setup? Or a "professional" setup? Thanks.

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'86 WS6 Trans Am

 

Here's mine, http://www.geocities.com/91formula

follow the ram air link.

------------------
91 Formula WS6
Home Made Ram Air,K&N Air Filter,Air Foil,
Ported Plenum,Underdrive Crank Pulley, Crane AFPR, Edelbrock High Flow TPI Runers, Holley 19lb Fuel Injectors, SLP Headers, SLP Y Pipe & Complete SLP 3" Exhaust and Muffler, High Flow Cat, Mobil 1 Oil, Hotchkis STB, Spohn LCA's and Panhard Bar and other polyurethane goodies.

Http://www.geocities.com/91formula

Add your 91 F-Body to my 91 F-body's Links page, or be added to my F-Body Links Page.

 

That looks like a pretty smooth setup, but my only concerns are I live in Oregon. It rains alot. I drive in rain alot. Sometimes avoiding a puddle on the freeway isn't an option. Will something like that kind of a scoop down low on the front of the car be a risk?

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'86 WS6 Trans Am

 

SLP makes a cold air kit for your car. I am using their cold air kit and it works very well.

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1988 Formula 5L/5sp 3.45 gears, SLP cold air kit, MAS gutted, TPIS air foil, TPIS AFPR, MAC headers, Mac under drive pulleys, MAC cat back, Relocated MAT.
Best ET street tires 13.85
Best 60 FT street tires 1.930
Best MPH street tires 99.29

 

It could be a problem with all the rain you get.

------------------
91 Formula WS6
Home Made Ram Air,K&N Air Filter,Air Foil,
Ported Plenum,Underdrive Crank Pulley, Crane AFPR, Edelbrock High Flow TPI Runers, Holley 19lb Fuel Injectors, SLP Headers, SLP Y Pipe & Complete SLP 3" Exhaust and Muffler, High Flow Cat, Mobil 1 Oil, Hotchkis STB, Spohn LCA's and Panhard Bar and other polyurethane goodies.

Http://www.geocities.com/91formula

Add your 91 F-Body to my 91 F-body's Links page, or be added to my F-Body Links Page.

 

I have an alternative under my MODS.

I cut a hole in the plastic pannels under the nose. I guess you can leave that alone and still pull some cold air from under the battery tray and not pull in any water, maybe?!?


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Michael Graeber

My Garage

1)83 Z-28 T-Top: Full cage, 9" w/ lad.bars, Midwest Engine Tech 406sbc,Strip Dominator, Demon Carb, Phase VI Chevy Bowtie heads, .630" Crower roller set-up, 1 3/4 coated Hookers 3" true dual exhaust th400, fuel cell & still not running

2)89 Formula WS-6 305 TPI Auto For the road: minor motor, more suspension stuff. MODS

 

Ok this is what i did. I took the stock air box completely out...took off the metal bracket that holds the smog canister and air box off...took a 3.5'' hole saw bit and drilled straight through the sheet metal. Took a piece of 3'' PVC pipe with a 9''x6'' K&N filter(biggest one they make) attached to the bottom and shoved it down the hole..the filter catches the air directly...though i do have to bring the filter up some...i would be in trouble if i hit a big puddle or something...i used the stock tubing that runs from the MAF to the air box...for now.....i'm working on another PVC tube that will join the existing tube to the MAF...i will try to get a pic of it

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89 GTA
Rice....it's whats for dinner

The left lane is for passing...if you aren't passing get the f*ck out of my way!
Proud memeber of the South Jersey Fbody Crew(all 2 of us!)
http://www.hometown.aol.com/clarkemustgonow

Tony

 

Arwan, I recommend not to mount anything outside your car. Unless you want a blown engine. A few horses is not worth it.

SLPs cold air kit mounts in your passenger side fender. (the dual one takes it from your driverside one also). This is what you do.

Take off your airbox and charcoal cannister. Ditch the bracket they bolt to. Relocate the cannister right behind the passenger side headlight and tilt it sideways. Face your snorkel towards the opening in your fender (you may also want to cut a hole in the side of the airbox ). Go to lowes and by aluminum flex tubing and run it from your snorkel into the fender. Bingo, same way SLP works.

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'92 Formula
305 TPI
Mods: SLP catback,SLP air foil,ported plenum,Crane AFPR (49psi),MSD6AL,homemade cold air,K&Ns,3:73s,JET fan switch...SLP 1 5/8ths are coming...oh yes

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by theformula:
[B]Arwan, I recommend not to mount anything outside your car. Unless you want a blown engine. A few horses is not worth it.

How would my setup blow the engine? I've done similar things to my 86 and 87 with NO negative results...the filter is out of the way of any water or puddles

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89 GTA
Rice....it's whats for dinner

The left lane is for passing...if you aren't passing get the f*ck out of my way!
Proud memeber of the South Jersey Fbody Crew(all 2 of us!)
http://www.hometown.aol.com/clarkemustgonow

Tony

 

Water can still travel through your filter..

Your filter doesnt need to be the one exposed to the water. It will eventually get hit with it though and travel up your intake.

If you want to run anything outside of your vehicle it should not diretly connect to the air box or air filter. It should only direct the air towards it.

------------------
'92 Formula
305 TPI
Mods: SLP catback,SLP air foil,ported plenum,Crane AFPR (49psi),MSD6AL,homemade cold air,K&Ns,3:73s,JET fan switch...SLP 1 5/8ths are coming...oh yes

[This message has been edited by theformula (edited October 21, 2000).]

 

With my setup, I don't see how water could travel left and up to the fender then up the fender then right and come out of the fender and into the airbox.

------------------
91 Formula WS6
Home Made Ram Air,K&N Air Filter,Air Foil,
Ported Plenum,Underdrive Crank Pulley, Crane AFPR, Edelbrock High Flow TPI Runers, Holley 19lb Fuel Injectors, SLP Headers, SLP Y Pipe & Complete SLP 3" Exhaust and Muffler, High Flow Cat, Mobil 1 Oil, Hotchkis STB, Spohn LCA's and Panhard Bar and other polyurethane goodies.

Http://www.geocities.com/91formula

Add your 91 F-Body to my 91 F-body's Links page, or be added to my F-Body Links Page.

 

If water does so much damage, then how come 4th Gen Ram Air's & SS's don't "blow up" all the time????

If you get some water into your cylinders it'll just vaporize from the extreme heat, it won't cause any damage.

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Black 88 GTA L98
!Airbox, !IAT, !MAF, !TB, !Plenum, SLP 1 3/4" headers, Dynomax Hi-Flo cat & cat-back, Corvette Servo
14.389 @ 95.2 mph, 2.001 60' {Before headers, new times coming soon)

 

hah. Water increases your compression...and bamm. Goodbye engine. Go ahead and try it if you don't think water does any damage.

------------------
'92 Formula
305 TPI
Mods: SLP catback,SLP air foil,ported plenum,Crane AFPR (49psi),MSD6AL,homemade cold air,K&Ns,3:73s,JET fan switch...SLP 1 5/8ths are coming...oh yes

 

You're both right...a little water won't hurt but it IS (for most practical purposes) an incompressible fluid. Get enough of it into your engine and you'll know it. Just ask my wife's old man, who tried to drive his minivan (against my advice) through over a foot of water in a downpour. Let's just say his connecting rods didn't do so well cause water won't compress like gas. It's a careful balance that I'd rather not fool with for a few bucks. A little water won't hurt, but a little more than a little and you're f---ed.

 

Right, if you get enough water in there it'll hydraulic lock, but you'll never get that much in there by just driving in the rain. When you consider how many rpms your engine is turning, and how fast raindrops fall from the sky, there is now way you'll ever suck in enough to cause damage.

[This message has been edited by Scott 88 GTA (edited October 22, 2000).]

 

i've had similar setups on 2 other cars with NO problems....the filter isn't even exposed to the rain directly anyway......and even if some did get in would it really make it to the engine by the time it went through the tubing MAF and plenum?

 

What about driving through a big puddle?

------------------
'92 Formula
305 TPI
Mods: SLP catback,SLP air foil,ported plenum,Crane AFPR (49psi),MSD6AL,homemade cold air,K&Ns,3:73s,JET fan switch...SLP 1 5/8ths are coming...oh yes

 

Don't drive through it.

 

The water theory is a bunch of crap..... but remember that the MAF could easily be damaged by extreme moisture. I just unplug my maf when it is raining........ those 3-4 times a year that it does here. If I was back in my home town of Chicago, I would reconsider for sure.

PS
What is the fricking difference between the inside of a fender well and the are under the battery tray?!? NADA except the 100+ cost of using SLP overpriced crap.

------------------
Michael Graeber

My Garage

1)83 Z-28 T-Top: Full cage, 9" w/ lad.bars, Midwest Engine Tech 406sbc,Strip Dominator, Demon Carb, Phase VI Chevy Bowtie heads, .630" Crower roller set-up, 1 3/4 coated Hookers 3" true dual exhaust th400, fuel cell & still not running

2)89 Formula WS-6 305 TPI Auto For the road: minor motor, more suspension stuff. MODS

 

fly89gta

How did you get 3" pipe to work. I did the same thing you did but used a 3.5" exhaust pipe. It works much better.

PS. Move your MAT sensor there also.

 

i was thinking about the 3.5'' exhaust pipe....but i had PVC pipe laying around so i used that.....its not totally done yet though.....i haven't made the piece that connects the MAF to the pipe holding the filter....right now its the stock rubber tubing.....and yes i will be relocated the MAT sensor to that pipe no doubt

------------------
89 GTA
Rice....it's whats for dinner

The left lane is for passing...if you aren't passing get the f*ck out of my way!
Proud memeber of the South Jersey Fbody Crew(all 2 of us!)
http://www.hometown.aol.com/clarkemustgonow

Tony

 

OK, I haven't done this, but this is my idea. Use the intake from a Z28, change the front hood latch area to compensate for the air filter boxes, and run some piping from the foglights (once removed of course) to the airbox.

Anyone see a problem with this idea??? It should work the same for MAF and non-MAF cars.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI

 

To much water in your cylinders can cause hydra-lock.Its bad.Can bend rods and eat bearings.Ussually happens with a VERY bad head gasket.I honestly don't think water is going to travel that far up the intake tract.I'd say the best bet would be a cone filter in place of the stock air can with some cold are ducted towards it.

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92Z28
89GTA

 

The solution to the possibility of getting water in the engine is to only run the ducting when you're at the track or only on nice days. It's just not worth the risk -and- having to clean the air filter (K&N's of course ) much more often only to gain a few horsepower. Just MHO...

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

 

R.O.B.- there is no way to make a z28 style intake on a T/A as far as I know. there is no way you will have enough room with the hood closed.. the radiator will be in the way even if the stock metal piece (where the hood latch connects) is removed... just look at it really close next time you open your hood. I thought about doing it once too, but it just isn't reasonably possible.

 

With an air grinder, I cut around the small useless stock fender hole and down through the plate that holds the canister and bracket. Also cut under the plate about 2 inches to make more room. I Pushed the canister up against the coolant fill reservoir and managed to use 4inch of tubing.
I cut a whole into the plastic under my car and installed a metal scoop with protective cage inside it for cigarettes, leaves, etc. What a difference!, cars pulls so strong above 3000RPM...I used 3inch before and 4inches showed a difference. Also, when it rains I just stuff a sponge in it (i've got wholes in my airbox) and don't have any water threats...
I fiddled with making some sort of latch or door to close the scoop but got frustrated and used the sponge. Works perfect.
If you want your car to pull like a horse, use 4"
But that's me.

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89 GTA G92
305 TPI WC 5spd w/3.45
Accel Cap & 8mm Taylor's
Custom 4" Cold Air Induction
Jet Airfoil
K&N Airfilter
160 deg stat/fan switch TB Bypass - Steel Rad
Cat back 3" Exhaust w/Terminator Muff.
HiGh FlOw Dynomax Cat
Spohn LCA's - KYB GR-2's
Moroso Crank Bolt and roller pilot bearing.
New Fuel Pump!
Autometer Vac+Oil Temp
2000 Yamaha R1 150hp 385ibs

 

to answer the original question thats been posted 6 months ago,, i did Ron Mullins cold air except i didnt move the charcoal canistor. i bought some 3 1/2 inch flex rubber tubing from an industrial plumbing store,, i attached it to the stock air box and ran it down the fender,, i cut a hole in the airdam and put it there,, very simple,.,. the aluminum stuff they sell at hardware stores is no good in my opinion. i used it at first and it bends too easily and dosent hold its shape..

 

I'd like to see someone fabricate a miniaturized Intercooler for the air intank on our cars....like the intercoolers used for turbochargers!

 

Most intercoolers are air to air and would have no affect on a naturally aspirated engine. The incoming air is already the same temperature as the air that would flow through the intercooler. An air to water one would work but wouldn't show a noticable gain and it would have to have A LOT of plumbing and other B S to make it work. Intercoolers are used on cars that have a Blower or Turbo because their intake air temperature is considerably higher than the ambient air temperature after it has been pressurized by the Turbo/Blower thus potential HP is lost due to the hot/low Oxygen containing air if an Intercooler is not used.

Laterzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

 

Ok, I know there are a lot of good ideas and people working on home made cold air, but I wanted to share an idea which was totally free. I have a 91 TA and all I did was take the actual canister which houses the air cleaner out. Basically the cleaner is sandwiched between lid and the base. There is a hole in the base which I plugged, but basically it is now an open element. I'm running a stock air cleaner, but will pick a K and N soon. There was some difference, but I've done a lot of tuning lately so it's hard to tell how much. When I get the k and n I'll probably have a better idea. It's not much, but it cost nothing and at highway speeds the cold air still comes in through the fender into the cleaner. Like I said not a big deal but I wanted to share a free idea.

 

DropTop,

You are probably getting unfiltered air right now. If you have the "garbage can" style air cleaner, the air flows from the inside of the filter element outward, to the engine. Study the design of the intake and supply ducts, and the lid of the air cleaner. You'll know right away if the air flows inward or outward.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Vader,

He should be alright with the 91 system (any 88-92 system). That backward-a$$ed air box system that you are referring to was only on 85-87 Pontiacs....

Laterzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

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Matt

1987 GTA L98 MD8 GW6

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 70Mph"

 

The amount of water that it takes to hydro-lock an engine is a lot more than you think, apparantly. I have only seen one hydro-locked engine in my days and it was a 4.3L in an S10 that was approximately an inch off the ground. The kid that lowered the thing drove it through a puddle that was almost a foot deep and never made it out, we found out later. He than had thing towed to the dealership and tried to warrenty the engine!!?? Didn't happen.

A little bit of water won't harm the engine at all.....it will actually help remove carbon deposits.

I will try it and I KNOW it will be OK.

Laterzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

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Matt

1987 GTA L98 MD8 GW6

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 70Mph"

 

Ok, I'm looking at the cleaner base right now, and as far as I can tell, the base seals to the bottom of the cleaner and the lid to the top. My cleaner is just a tube open on both ends. What I have now is the lid sealed to the cleaner sealed to the new base. The only ducting is a tube which connects to the cleaner lid and to the throttle bodies. I'm almost 100% sure that I'm ok with this, but I'll double check it asap. It's dark and time to party, so it will have to wait till tommorrow. The reason I went with this is that I didn't want to cut up my factory cleaner base. I can always return it to stock in two minutes.
Not a big deal, but like I said, it was a free mod and later on when I get my hand on some good looking tubing, I'll make my own cold air system. Thanks a lot for the input Vader and Matt. I'll post again after I double check.

[This message has been edited by 91DropTopTA (edited April 27, 2001).]

 

Vader, they changed the air intake design in 88, and it sucks air in the opposite direction that the earlier ones do. As long as the filter is tight between the base and the upper outlet side, its fine.