Hey im tryin to reach the mid to low 13's in a 88 305 tpi.. what i have done so far is.. hedman hedders and y pipe.. high flow cat... slp cai, hypertech chip, march pullys, msd ignition coil. and the air foil thing

where do you guys think im at, and what do i need to get into low/mid 13's
trying to avoid power adders, for now. thanks

 

a good head cam combo

 

well give it a solid tune up... play with prom burning making basic timing changes as you'll gain a good deal of torque.

Get a set of drag radials/slicks and 3.73 gears and run it at the track first to see what times your tuning now. I can see bottom 14's with those mods if its in good running condition and you can drive. But what trans do you have? is it a stick? is it an auto? if its an auto then your gonna need to get a 2600-2800 stall converter. 3.42 gears probly be a better auto match.

after that your a few more bolt ons and a hotcam away from lower 13's. Else you can port out the stock plenum and siamese the base just a tad and add the cam and it should make you get into the mid low 13's

 

or nitrous which is actually the easiest way although it is a power adder.

 

yeh its a stock auto trans. unfoutuatly(not sure exactly which one though) engines in good shape(75k miles... had 42k when i got it) and i had it tuned a few months ago

 

with just headers , exhaust, msd wires and cap and rotor, and 3.45 gears with drag radials and a 5speed i was going 13.8s so you should be close with the set up that you have now

 

He probably has the crappy cam in his 88 since he has an auto. He's probably still stuck in the 15's.
I know that going from 3.23 gears to 3.73 gears when my car was still an auto dropped half a second in my 1/4 mile time. 15.7 to 15.2 and gained 3mph.

 

so it seems new cam and 3.42 gears are the main things then a stall converter and a few more bolt ons and a few more bolt ons could never hurt

 

biggest gains are gonna be from gears/converter and slicks/drag radials. you need traction and to beable to apply as much power to the tires as you can, hence getting a high stall converter.

i'd do those 3 mods first to see where you stand, then look for a cam

 

I'm a bigger fan of heads and cam first.

An LT4 hot cam and a set of 87 LG4 heads (or your current heads, they're good) that are ported way out will give you some huge gains. These parts can be had relatively cheap. Heads from the junkyard and the cam from ebay.

Sell the air foil and save for an intake that matches the cam/heads. Holley Stealth ram or go to the junkyard (my preferred method) and nab an LT1 intake and port the crap out of that.

You can do it!

Also, what gears are you running? 3.54 - 3.73 will give you a dramatic change from 2.73-3.08 ratios.

 

yeh ive been lookin alot into alot of this stuff.. i'm thinkin about going with the lt4 hot cam, 4th gen posi 3.43 rear swap, the holly stealth ram, stall converter and drag radials(havnt looked to hard into the converter or radials yet) think that would get me where i want to be?

 

i have all that MINUS the hotcam and i'm in the 12.90's with a L98. your car with the cam should match that

 

well my 89 trans am with the peanut 305 and an auto went 14.80s
trans with 2500 converter and shift kit, 3.45 gears, crappy flowtech headers and a stock 2.75" catback with a flowmaster, custom cold air with an air foil and lightly ported plenum, underdrive pulleys

thoses small *** cames suck but my 305 was one of the fastest of its kind at the track

 

ur gonna need full boltons and a mild cam like the zz4 or hot cam

 

I know that heads/cam/gears with good tires and stall are going to be a big factor in reach that kind of ET, but am also wondering, do you think the mods in my sig are enough to atleast touch 13s?

 

sounds like you got some good mods there midnightblue07. i'm not aware of how that cam runs, its a flat tapet right? as long as its tuned well it should run fairly strong. i would think traction limited street tires could possibly turn a bottom 14 to mid high 13. depends on how much topend that cam gives you

 

Yeah its a flat Tappet cam, its a 270H Magnum Comp Cam 224/224 duration .050 @ 470/470 lift which I was told is around the limit of stock heads and powerband around (1800-5800) so I hope It could be capable of aleast low 14s but I don't know

 

have u tuned it? how does it feel on the street? any races to compare it to other known car ET/trap speed numbers? that cam sounds like its big enough to move a 350 in the 12s with the right setup so a 305 should be moving well into the 13's.

 

that is not a fuel injected cam, if he has no tuning done it wont run very good at all with that 110 lsa.

 

thats what i mean, that tight lsa and big duration for a 305 will need a solid tune. idle quality will be rough i bet since so much reversion from tight overlap.

 

my suggestion, install a 350

 

yeah thats crossed my mind, but the 305 is still in very good shape so i decided to keep it build it up so i have at least a decently fast car. and when the engine goes ill probly go up to a 383 stroker, i just figured id have a little fun with this for now

 

I had this cam in my 86: (doesn't say the LSA though)
Part Number: 114142 Grind Number: POWERMAX 2050 (FORMERLY COMPUCAM 2050)
Engine Identification:
Start Yr. End Yr. Make Cyl Description
1957 1987 CHEVROLET 8 SERIOUS PERFORMANCE FOR 305 AND 350 CARB EQUIPPED CARS W/AFTERMARKET INTAKE, PERF. CYL. HEADS AND FREE FLOW EXHAUST. AUTO OR MANUAL TRANS OR MODIFIED 305 W/ 5-SPEED. AXLE RATIOS 3.73 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER REQUIRED. SPRING AND RETAINER KIT REQUIRED FOR MAX. PERFORMANCE. (50 STATE LEGAL IN 81-87 267 THRU 400 CARB EQUIPPED CARS ONLY. C.A.R.B. E.O. D-225-25) BASIC RPM 2200-5200
Engine Size Configuration
262-400 C.I. V
Valve Setting: Intake .000 Exhaust .000 HOT
Lift: Intake @Cam 3027 @Valve 454 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 3200 @Valve 480
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.50
Cam Timing: TAPPET @---
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake --- --- 272 °
Exhaust --- --- 284 °
Spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner
Part Number 99848
Loads Closed 105 LBS @ 1.700 or 1 45/64
Open 280 LBS @ 1.240

Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM ----
Maximum RPM ----
Valve Float 6500
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 1 BTDC 35 ABDC 107 216 °
Exhaust 51 BBDC (3) BTDC 117 228 °

And here is how it idled and ran in limp home mode (I had just switched from Windows 2000 to XP and my eprom burning program didn't work correctly, would burn and verify but wasn't burning correctly, so I was running in Limp Home Mode unknowingly for 6 weeks and wondered why doing drastic changes to the tune didn't do anything)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGTLJ9nS2aI

I ran a 14.1 @ 99mph with a 2.3 60' time in Limp Home Mode.
Spent about $80 in gas for the 186 mile round trip to the track back on 2002.

 

my research and conversations with Comp Cams tech, indicates that a minimum of 112 Lobe separation is a must. Also, if you TPI intake components (TB, plenum, intake base, heads) are all stock, or close to it.. it makes no sense to get a cam that peaks at 5800 RPM, when the full potential of the stock TPI intake components top out at 4800-5000 rpm. I'm in the middle to trying to find the right roller cam for my 87 305 TPI. I have the 5 speed and 3.42 borg rear, ported plenum, port matched intake base to heads and ported/polished stock heads. Any suggestions?

 

Well its been at the shop for a while and my friend already give it a solid tune and check it over and its runs pretty strong and the idle quailty is good, it does have lope to it, but it not rough like I thought it would be which really surprised me cuz like you said it has a tight LSA and the duration, but it doesn't show any problems with idle/quatily or drive wise, so would this be a good thing as far as my car performance?

 

I ran that cam in my old 88 Formula TPI 5-Speed, but it was a 350 not a 305, the cam worked real good in it, never got the car to the track but it laid good rubber and killed my buddy's 96 GT Stang.

In that car I ran the Magnum 270H cam, 010 350 with flat tops, the stock 081 heads and the stock TPI on top, headman headers and the stock 3:45 gears in the rear, worked pretty good

 

Thats awesome to hear, make me feel more comfortable about that, btw just wondering but was ur buddy 96 GT stock or sumthing and any other races that you won with your Formula?

 

The Stang had most of the typical bolt on's, like CAI and headers, nothnig crazy done to it.

Hmmm kill list, gotta remember back,
Dakota R/T 5.9
l8 70's vette
81 Z28
Mid 80's Monty SS (was a sweet looking car)
l8 80's Mustang GT
Integra Type R

Had my behind handed to me on a silver platter by a Grand Sport Vette though

 

thats cool though lol, just wondering also do you have a stock Stall converter and if so do you recommend it for 270H cam or any cam changes cause I still have the stock stall converter still and wondering if I should change over to a higher one.

 

That car was a T-5, but I had a Vigilante 2600 stall in a diferent TPI car and I luv'd it.