ATTN: TRAXION, or anyone that has taken the base plate off!
05-15-2001, 08:22 PM
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ATTN: TRAXION, or anyone that has taken the base plate off!
ok i have a broken gasket on the intake to head side, and the antifreeze keeps leaking into the head and causing white smoke at start up. its starting to make me soo upset,
my question is.. how hard is it to take it off? and what am i looking forward too?
i also plan on porting it, i have the tools for it, so why not.
and while i am at it. how hard is it to take the emissions off our cars. i had SD if that matters!
thanks anyone!!
------------------
Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Custom Interior
mods: AFPR, B&M megashifter-HD4ft cable, Underdrive Pulleys, Ported plenum, K&N's, Magnaflow muffler, Aluminum Driveshaft, Gutted Air Boxes w/ Ram Air, and more!!
soon to have new PAINT, and suspension work
DAILY DRIVER: 1991 S10 2.5L/5SPD -
my question is.. how hard is it to take it off? and what am i looking forward too?
i also plan on porting it, i have the tools for it, so why not.
and while i am at it. how hard is it to take the emissions off our cars. i had SD if that matters!
thanks anyone!!
------------------
Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Custom Interior
mods: AFPR, B&M megashifter-HD4ft cable, Underdrive Pulleys, Ported plenum, K&N's, Magnaflow muffler, Aluminum Driveshaft, Gutted Air Boxes w/ Ram Air, and more!!
soon to have new PAINT, and suspension work
DAILY DRIVER: 1991 S10 2.5L/5SPD -
05-15-2001, 09:09 PM
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Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
Hey man - intake isn't that bad - I've done it several times for various reasons. It's not hard - I can do the whole thing in 2-3 hours now. My advice: get a complete set of intake gaskets before you start, some new intake manifold bolts, new tpi bolts from totally stainless (i got the hex head b/c i HATE torx!), a bottle of anti seize, a can of "the right stuff" or some permatex ultra blue, a scraper and some wd-40 or brake cleaner or something like that. You just remove the tpi stuff, the distributor, then the manifold. scrape it all clean and do your porting, then spray some permatex hi tack down to keep the intake gaskets in place. Then what I do is cut off the heads of a few old manifold bolts (since you got new ones right? 
) and use them on one side as guides to set the manifold in place. can't do both sides or it won't slide on. once you have the gaskets in place, lay down some ultra blue (thin bead) around all the water jackets (oh, and put some down under the gaskets too around the water jackets) and (here's the crucial part) lay down a thick 1/4 - 3/8" bead of ultra blue or right stuff on the china walls, covering the gaskets by about 1 -1 1/2". put in the studs, and wait about 10-20 mins if you use ultra blue, or within 5 mins if you use right stuff and slide the manifold on - put the bolts all in finger tight soon so you don't need to slide it while it's curing, then coat all the manifold bolts in some permatex non hardening silicone and hand tighten them again...now torque to the 35 lb specs...go 15-25-35 in the recommended sequence. i've never had any oil leaks with the blue or the right stuff. make sure you mark the distributor putting that back in is the hardest part. emissions is a piece of cake - just plug the manifolds with 1/4" pipe plugs and rip all that crap out! there's a tech article on this site about new belt routing. good luck!
) and use them on one side as guides to set the manifold in place. can't do both sides or it won't slide on. once you have the gaskets in place, lay down some ultra blue (thin bead) around all the water jackets (oh, and put some down under the gaskets too around the water jackets) and (here's the crucial part) lay down a thick 1/4 - 3/8" bead of ultra blue or right stuff on the china walls, covering the gaskets by about 1 -1 1/2". put in the studs, and wait about 10-20 mins if you use ultra blue, or within 5 mins if you use right stuff and slide the manifold on - put the bolts all in finger tight soon so you don't need to slide it while it's curing, then coat all the manifold bolts in some permatex non hardening silicone and hand tighten them again...now torque to the 35 lb specs...go 15-25-35 in the recommended sequence. i've never had any oil leaks with the blue or the right stuff. make sure you mark the distributor putting that back in is the hardest part. emissions is a piece of cake - just plug the manifolds with 1/4" pipe plugs and rip all that crap out! there's a tech article on this site about new belt routing. good luck!
05-15-2001, 10:08 PM
#3
Whatever you do, do it soon unless you want to install a set of main and rod bearings too.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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Later,
Vader
------------------
"Fear is how I fall, Confusing what is real..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader
05-15-2001, 11:02 PM
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hey vader its not leaking into the oil. just into the air flow part. it burns up in the cylinder.
i will take a look at the manifold and start to do it ASAP, when i get the car back.
and i have a friend who builds motors at AMERICAN SPEED, moline ILL. (the ads in CHEVY HP) and he is the only engine builder there so he will know. and will most likely teach me everything, and will be sure the distributor is 100% correct,
and thanks for everything. I ROC. i really appreciate it.
------------------
Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Custom Interior
mods: AFPR, B&M megashifter-HD4ft cable, Underdrive Pulleys, Ported plenum, K&N's, Magnaflow muffler, Aluminum Driveshaft, Gutted Air Boxes w/ Ram Air, and more!!
soon to have new PAINT, and suspension work
DAILY DRIVER: 1991 S10 2.5L/5SPD -
i will take a look at the manifold and start to do it ASAP, when i get the car back.
and i have a friend who builds motors at AMERICAN SPEED, moline ILL. (the ads in CHEVY HP) and he is the only engine builder there so he will know. and will most likely teach me everything, and will be sure the distributor is 100% correct,
and thanks for everything. I ROC. i really appreciate it.
------------------
Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Custom Interior
mods: AFPR, B&M megashifter-HD4ft cable, Underdrive Pulleys, Ported plenum, K&N's, Magnaflow muffler, Aluminum Driveshaft, Gutted Air Boxes w/ Ram Air, and more!!
soon to have new PAINT, and suspension work
DAILY DRIVER: 1991 S10 2.5L/5SPD -
05-16-2001, 01:20 AM
#5
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Posts: n/a
I do this for a living... at least it feels that way.
Ive swapped TPI manifolds too many times to count. Ive probably pulled the intake at least 30 times. Make sure you get all the bolts out, there are 4 on the tops of each runner, and 6 on the bottom. Dont miss the hidden ones. The base itself is pretty simple to get off, just like any other intake manifold at that point.
Ive swapped TPI manifolds too many times to count. Ive probably pulled the intake at least 30 times. Make sure you get all the bolts out, there are 4 on the tops of each runner, and 6 on the bottom. Dont miss the hidden ones. The base itself is pretty simple to get off, just like any other intake manifold at that point.
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