cheap mods?
cheap mods?
Hello everyone. Newbie here.
so what are some cheap mods for my 86 Trans Am auto? I think i'm gonna start with a cut-out and maybe a flowmaster. Gears?? would you recommend 3.73? Anything else thats cheap?
Thanks Guys
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86 Trans Am Auto w/305
2000 Mustang GT mid 13's
so what are some cheap mods for my 86 Trans Am auto? I think i'm gonna start with a cut-out and maybe a flowmaster. Gears?? would you recommend 3.73? Anything else thats cheap?
Thanks Guys
------------------
86 Trans Am Auto w/305
2000 Mustang GT mid 13's
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,287
Likes: 0
From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
Hey, newbie.
What engine do you have? I am assuming some sort of 305 with carb. What gears do you have? HAve you baselined it?
And, what did you do to that mudstain to go "mid 13's?"
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1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI)
T-5 transmission
Edelbrock TES and cat back
Accel manifold
NOS
subframes
jegster torque arm
MSD Digital 6
AFPR
Lakewood lcas
Hurst linelock
SLP cam (206 212 .480 .486)
relocated battery
cold air
Hypertech chip
centerforce df clutch
poly bushings and mounts
AFR 190s
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
a/f gauge
autopower rollbar
12.44 @ 114.63 juiced uncorrected
13.549 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected
What engine do you have? I am assuming some sort of 305 with carb. What gears do you have? HAve you baselined it?
And, what did you do to that mudstain to go "mid 13's?"
------------------
1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI)
T-5 transmission
Edelbrock TES and cat back
Accel manifold
NOS
subframes
jegster torque arm
MSD Digital 6
AFPR
Lakewood lcas
Hurst linelock
SLP cam (206 212 .480 .486)
relocated battery
cold air
Hypertech chip
centerforce df clutch
poly bushings and mounts
AFR 190s
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
a/f gauge
autopower rollbar
12.44 @ 114.63 juiced uncorrected
13.549 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected
this off topic but i think i would like a 3000GT over a mustang. I like the way they look, not ricy at all and still have mucho power, I really like the VR-4 Twin Turbo 4 wheel steering....sorry just had to blut it out...it won't happen again.....
YEAH CAMARO6SPEED,
You are on the ball, if you think guys with pimped out civics are getting mad girls...... wait till you drive i 3000GT VR4 JET BLACK..... I did at work.... MAN everyone just stares at you and the girls just keep waiving and smiling...... The GT didnt even have a fart pipe. It just looked that BAD!!!!
You are on the ball, if you think guys with pimped out civics are getting mad girls...... wait till you drive i 3000GT VR4 JET BLACK..... I did at work.... MAN everyone just stares at you and the girls just keep waiving and smiling...... The GT didnt even have a fart pipe. It just looked that BAD!!!!
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ron rizzotti:
i think he has a 305 tpi, since his question is on the TPI board..
you want a cheap mod that'll give you power? get a larger cam. </font>
i think he has a 305 tpi, since his question is on the TPI board..

you want a cheap mod that'll give you power? get a larger cam. </font>
305 tpi Automatic. gears... not sure. Me and a buddy found this car for real cheap and want to see what we can do to it. It looks real nice and is clean and has a brand new tranny. I heard something about the stock Cam from an LT1 will add like 15hp?? is the true?
my stang is a 2000 and has 3.73, k&n, u/d pulleys, short shifter, and offroad X-pipe
have mas air and throttle body upgrades on order. then getting a ram-air hood. want to hit 12's N/A
------------------
86 Trans Am Auto w/305
2000 Mustang GT mid 13's
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
A new cam would be a great mod for you to do. One of the members here has put a LT1 cam in his car and he is really happy with the results from what I rememeber. Another cheap mod is to do a realy good tune up, put a catback exhaust (headers, cat or no cat, muffler) 3" is a good one to put on there. You can put an AFPR on your car, 1.6 Roller Rockers, gears would be a good addition for that car. Suspension mods are a good idea like subframe connectors, strut tower brace, new sway bar do a frontend rebuild bushings and all. That should let you get a good start on that car.
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"I'm not dumb, I just have an amazing command of thoroughly useless
information."
Bill Waterson creator of Calvin & Hobbes.
------------------
"I'm not dumb, I just have an amazing command of thoroughly useless
information."
Bill Waterson creator of Calvin & Hobbes.
Trending Topics
86,
There's a really good chance that you have the Borg Warner 9-bolt rear end. If you decide to change gears, it's gonna cost you plenty. If you swap rear ends, toss the old one my way. I could use a spare bulletproof differential.
The Borg unit is very strong. It makes the stock 10-bolt Saginaw look sad. It rivals the 9" Dana/Eaton (Ford) diff for strength, and in a much smaller package.
The cam is certainly the weakest design you could have. Right after that, the heads (head flows) are not really stellar, either. But the single biggest restriction (is that an oxymoron?) is the plenum just behind the throttle body. If you think the 48mm TB is small, wait until you see what's right behind it n the plenum. Get out the mill or die grinder and start making the plenum lighter.
If you have a high-mileage engine, you might want to consider a roller conversion and reworking the heads for larger valves and deeper bowls. About the best you can do in the small 305 cylinders (without deck machining) with SBC valves is 1.94/1.50. Shrouding is a major problem with 1.94/1.60 valves in the small heads. 1.94/1.50 is a better fit, but the intake shrouding will still occur if you don't do some chanmber modifications, and probably flycut the case deck to clear the valve diameter.
But don't give up there. Far too many people seem to be "married" to the stock SBC valve sizes, and thus stick themselves with few choices. A good alternative is a 1.875/1.550 Buick 350 valve set. You'll force your machinist to use his/her brain a little to select the right cutters and stones, but they fit nicely with no interference and have a longer tip length (allows a longer installed height of the springs to let you use a higher lift).
Port ceilings can be raised quite a bit on the stock castings, and the port radii can be elongated fairly easily. Beyond that is the common volley of parts thrown at the engine, like 1-1/2" headers, better flowing exhaust, AFPR, enlarge intake base - all the bolt-on stuff.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
There's a really good chance that you have the Borg Warner 9-bolt rear end. If you decide to change gears, it's gonna cost you plenty. If you swap rear ends, toss the old one my way. I could use a spare bulletproof differential.
The Borg unit is very strong. It makes the stock 10-bolt Saginaw look sad. It rivals the 9" Dana/Eaton (Ford) diff for strength, and in a much smaller package.
The cam is certainly the weakest design you could have. Right after that, the heads (head flows) are not really stellar, either. But the single biggest restriction (is that an oxymoron?) is the plenum just behind the throttle body. If you think the 48mm TB is small, wait until you see what's right behind it n the plenum. Get out the mill or die grinder and start making the plenum lighter.
If you have a high-mileage engine, you might want to consider a roller conversion and reworking the heads for larger valves and deeper bowls. About the best you can do in the small 305 cylinders (without deck machining) with SBC valves is 1.94/1.50. Shrouding is a major problem with 1.94/1.60 valves in the small heads. 1.94/1.50 is a better fit, but the intake shrouding will still occur if you don't do some chanmber modifications, and probably flycut the case deck to clear the valve diameter.
But don't give up there. Far too many people seem to be "married" to the stock SBC valve sizes, and thus stick themselves with few choices. A good alternative is a 1.875/1.550 Buick 350 valve set. You'll force your machinist to use his/her brain a little to select the right cutters and stones, but they fit nicely with no interference and have a longer tip length (allows a longer installed height of the springs to let you use a higher lift).
Port ceilings can be raised quite a bit on the stock castings, and the port radii can be elongated fairly easily. Beyond that is the common volley of parts thrown at the engine, like 1-1/2" headers, better flowing exhaust, AFPR, enlarge intake base - all the bolt-on stuff.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
I don't have my PROM buring equipment yet but what would happen if I put a LT-1 Cam in a 350 with a 19lb injectors and AFPR and 305 PROM? (yeah and the 350 knock sensor too).
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????!!???!?!?!?!?!?!?
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