I bought my car about a year and a half ago and alls I have been doing to it is F*$king with the tuneport electronics...... I had a shop do all the repairs and i have spent around $1500...... oxegen sensor, throttle body, 3 (I REPEAT 3) mass air flow sensors, theres more TPI stuff but i cant remember off hand, battery, alternator, tune up, usual stuff, Millions of code 33, 34 breakages. In fact 34 is coming up as we speek. The car contiunes to hesitate a slight bit and low RPM's, it takes a little bit of cranking to get it to start (tapping gas a little helps), ohh and the main thing is the IDLE. It loves to stall (not everytime but sometimes). The car now overheats when it is sitting around and not driving. Sometimes it runs great, others it run like Shi*!!!! Someone please HELP ME!!!!! Sorry for the complaints but Ive had hell with this bueatiful car, and i know it just a little thing wrong with it (computer related).... Anyway, I found this, Tell me what you think
http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/ecm/prom.htm
This is for an 86 iroc 305 TPI, but mine is an 88... but it is screaming the same problems!
Also, could it be a Coolant temp sensor???
Any help appreciated!

 

That was my first thought since your overheating, the fan does not seem to be kicking in soon enough, I paid $12 bucks for my collant temp sensor, and it fixed many a problems. Car would stall untill it warmed up. I was getting code 33 & 34 because of the rough idle too.

Try it, the worst thing that can happen is you will be sure that is not the problem.

The sensor is located in the front of the intake, 9at least it was on mine) Drain your collant befoe you pull it out.

Take it to the store so you get the correct one.

John

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87 Formula Yellow/Black
Engine & Transmission
.040 over 5.0 converted to TPI, 9.5:1 Compression, SLP Cam Dur 206/212, Lift 480/487, Cent Line 112, SLP headers, SLP cat-back exhaust, K&N Airfilter, Modified Stock cold air intake, Ported & polished Stock TPI intake, Holley Adjustable Fuel Press regulator, AC Rapidfire Spark Plugs.
Gil Younger (no yo-yo) Shift Kit, Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.73 Posi gear
Suspension & Brakes:
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels, KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts, Hotchkis strut tower brace, South side machine frame connectors, Custom reinforced control arms and pan hard bar.
Interior:
Custom Leather interior, CUSTOM Yellow Gauge Faces, Kenwood Receiver, Pioneer Speakers, Kicker Substations, Kenwood 10 Disk Changer, Pioneer Amp.

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)

83 Camaro (Parts)
83 T/A (parts)

http://www.3rdgenformula.com

 

I just got back from GM and Autozone. I bought a Coolant Temp Sensor ($7.99) and a 170 Degree Thermostat. I am going to do the Throttle Body Bypass also when i install these things. I am also going to drill 4 very small holes in the Thermo
http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/cool/cool.htm
Will this do anything bad?
I still would like info on that Prom thing? My car is running poorly!

 

I also plan on getting a fan switch to make them turn on at 170 Degrees.

 

Hey,
I believe that TSB for the PROM was related only to the 86 models. The chip was loaded with bad data from the factory and a new one was engineered as soon as the problem was found.
bsa

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"If they do not run, Then they will die." - Stonewall Jackson
#3
'87 IROC, 355 TPI, Converted to SD, 700R4, B&M Megashifter, 3.42, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads, Edelbrock Intake, Accel Runners, Comp Cam, Crane Gold rockers, Lucas 24# injectors, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster 3'' exhaust, Mallory Ignition, Transgo Performance Shift Kit, Corvette Servo, 2,000 Stall Torque Converter

 

Oh yeah, have you tried replacing the MAF relays (burn-off and power). That might be causing your MAF woes which would in turn give you the symptoms you are discussing.
bsa

 

Hey Import,

The link you refer to is my 3rd gen site and the article was brought to my attention and guidance of Vader. It is for the 86 bugged prom and I doubt that it would be applicable to your model.

Best advice. Slow down, have patience and tackle this one at a time. Good info check the relays with all the MAF's you've replaced I would look at the MAF Power Relay and while your at it change the Burnoff and Fuel Pump relay too. Total cost about 30.00.

Providing the MAF that you currently have is known good... then double check all duct connections regarding the MAF. Air cleaner box to MAF to Airbox to Bellows to Throttle body.

Clean the IAC passages and set the TPS to .54 volts. Tighten the intake to torque specs. I found my middle four bolts nearly just finger tight.

After the above procedures disconnect battery for 5 minutes, then reconnect and check for codes.

Failure to clear codes I would change the fuel filter and consider having your injectors and cold start rebuilt, flowmatched and balanced by rich at cruzin performance and reinstall with gm o-rings at a cost of about 120.00.

I'm sure that these potential additional cost are not what you want to hear BUT really they are a drop in the bucket compared to what you've already spent. None of these things would be considered a waste if they in themselves did not correct your problems.

Get to these points and come back and let us know what's up.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="red">Red 86 T/A</FONT><FONT SIZE="2"> 5.0 TPI</FONT><FONT SIZE="1"> </FONT><FONT SIZE="2">(LB9/WS6)
~HyperTech Cap/Coil/Rotor/AFPR
~Derale Adjustable Fan Switch ~ 170° Stat
~Flow Matched Injectors ~ K & N Air Filter
~Ported Plenum ~ Pirelli 245/50/16
~SLP TB Airfoil
~All Else Stock</FONT>

<A HREF="http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/"><FONT SIZE="1" FACE="MS Sans Serif"><IMG SRC="http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/cg/3rd-logo.jpg" WIDTH="100" HEIGHT="80" ALIGN="BOTTOM" BORDER="0"></FONT></A>

 

So you think i should change the:
MAF Burn Off Relay
MAF Power Relay
Fuel Pump Relay
????
God i hope this stuff is in my camaro repair manual.....
Any other opinions on my problems and repairs????
Also, will drilling 4 Very small holes in the Thermo do anything bad??

 

It won't do anything bad, no. It's just unneccesary. The last temp that is stored in the computer for car funtions is 176 degrees (other than turning the fan on at 232). A 180 thermo would do you just fine.

As for the problem, after all the repays and ect, replace the computer (or borrow one from a friend for a day)... There isn't much else it could be.

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)

 

The purpose of the 4 small holes in the stat is to allow a constant minimal flow which will eliminate hot pockets and air from the system.

 

I was going to ask you where you found a 170 degree thermostat... but i never could find any info on when closed loop ends

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1985 IROC-Z, nuff said :P

 

I bought the 170 Deg. Thermo at GM, it is an AC delco one..... They didnt have it in stock though, but it only cost $7.00

MIKEINAZ, I bought the fuel pump relay.... and in the computer it had one listed for the MAF sensor.... It did not have a power relay, and a burn off relay..... It just said Mass Air Sensor Relay.... I bought it to....

 

Iroc Z 85:
Tech Tips
Second Step would be to install a lower degree thermostat. Many enthusiasts, magazines, and manufacturers suggest a 160° thermostat. There is evidence that the 160° stat is too cold for these engines, aside from the fact that your heater and defrost will be much less effective, should you need them. With this in mind, in the past, there are many that utilized a "winter" and "summer" thermostats being a 180° and 160° respectively. But a few diehards through research discovered that even though GM doesn't list it in their application charts there is an AC Delco 170° thermostat available through any GM Dealer by ordering part number 10220957. There are some pricey ones through after market suppliers also.
http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/tips.htm

Also, How hard is it to install the parts i bought.... i want to be prepared so i dont have to bust out the sledgehammer on the BASTERD 305!

 

The relays are a piece of cake. just pop out the old ones and snap in the new... should take a total of 5 mins (if you have troubles with the damn plastic clips) - All mine are broken by now -

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91 z28 lb9 5 speed - hooker 1 5/8 headers - high flow cat- full 3 inch exhaust - home made ram air - tpis airfoil - dual chamber flowmaster - Stage 2 Jet Chip and 160 stat - 8 mm Msd plug wires - 55,000 v hypertech coil/rotor/distrib. cap - Mac. White face gauges - lots of sound system crap...

 

The thermostat its easy - it just takes a while to get the inner most bolt on the intake off (at least on my 91) - and the fan switch I haven't done yet but plan too - that shouldn't take too long either... I would also try taking the IAC out of the car and cleaning the hell out of it - also get some GM top engine cleaner from a dealer - that should clean out most of the crap in the intake - at least it did for me...

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91 z28 lb9 5 speed - hooker 1 5/8 headers - high flow cat- full 3 inch exhaust - home made ram air - tpis airfoil - dual chamber flowmaster - Stage 2 Jet Chip and 160 stat - 8 mm Msd plug wires - 55,000 v hypertech coil/rotor/distrib. cap - Mac. White face gauges - lots of sound system crap...

 

This SUCKS!!!
It doesnt show in my Camaro repair manual i got from autozone anywhere how to change/locate the old relays. I need help finding them.... Mass air relay and fuel pump relay.

 

Vader,
Will you or someone who knows where the picture he posted on here is of the 4 relays in the back drivers side that said what each on was.. I NEED IT VERY BADLY....

 

You may have to put out a call for Vader, 8mike9, willie, madmax, desert86roc, jim85iroc, or some other Camaro Dudes that have more knowledge about the 88 Camaro setup.

On my 86 T/A I have 3 "little black boxes" located on the firewall above the brake booster. These are the 3 relays. You might have only received one part number for the MAF relay because both the MAF Power and MAF Burnoff use the same relay. You might should have bought 2 of these.

Word of caution. The night before you replace your thermostat ... soak the bolts on your stat housing with a GOOD penetrating oil. This might make life easier.

 

IRS,

The relays are aranges like this on a TA:



You really should check into the upgraded EPROM for the ECM - your symptoms are the reason there was a re-write in the first place.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Vader,

Please clarify..... the upgrade you made me aware of was for the 86 only? He has an 88. Would it also be applicable or was there an additional upgrade for the 88 year?

thanks...

 

Mike,

You are correct - I misunderstood the original post when I read the line

"This is for an 86 iroc 305 TPI, but mine is an 88... but it is screaming the same problems!"

I thought he might have been working on an '86.

There is no upgraded or GM rewritten PROM for the '88 that I am aware of.

The symptoms described make me believe that there may be electrical connection problems at the ECM, ECM and engine grounds, and/or some of the sensors and input devices. I would remove and reseat the edge connectors at the ECM. The wiping action of unplugging and reconnecting the harnesses can clean the foil traces on the ECM mainboard. The description included the fact that sometimes the car "runs great" and sometimes like "Shi*!!!!"

Check the electrical connectors and the MAF and the MAF power and burnoff relays again, and be super-critical. The signal levels are very low, and a little resistance goes a long way to drop the signal to useless levels.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader