here's my problem. If my car is cold, it will occasionally take wd40 to start. Explain: I turn the key millions of times and it seems as if it starts and dies (like its burning up all of the fuel). My dad got out and sprayed wd40 while I was trying to crank (into the air ducting) and the car instantly started. Could this be my cold-start injector? (I've got an 87 350) Could it be something else?
Thanx,
Jon

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~3.1EyeCandy~
"The Car that started my craze"

'92 Firebird 3.1 (A car sold)

My new baby: '87 flame red GTA 350 w'auto
Carmine interior with pioneer all around
Hooker Catback, Airfoil, K&N
http://3.1EyeCandy.tripod.com

 

MAybe ur IAC? replaced mine when it was doing that, worked just fine.

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88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass

 

Doesn't the IAC control the idle? Has anyone out there ever had a problem with the Cold-Start Injector running lean?

 

try taking some fuel injected intake cleaner and spray directly into the IAC passage, its the hole in between the throttle blades. watch for all the black stuff to come out and your idle to improve. if it doesnt work then look at the fuel system or maybe try some coolant temp sensors, if they are bad the motor can be hard to start.

 

yes, but when u start a car when its cold, notice how it runs at about 1000 or 900. I controls the idle, but when u start ur car, it starts it at idle, mine was doing the exact same thing, i would have to hold the peddle until it warmed up. it should work, hopefuly..

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88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass

 

OK, so let me get this straight. My car is hard to start because of the IAC, which in turn controls the idle. I'm still a bit confused. My car idles fine (when it eventually starts). When I said it started and then died, I meant it turned over, made the exhaust pur for maybe 1/2 a second, and quit. Maybe this will clear my question up a bit. Thanks for all the replies! Keep 'em coming if you have any ideas.

 

OO, ok, well i kinda didn't read ur post too good, sorry. How does ur car start once its warmed up?

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88' GTA 350 MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass

 

The car runs great, idles great, throws NO error codes, and loves to break the tires loose. It just takes some ether to start. Thanks for being persistent Breathment. I still think it's the cold-start injector & unless someone comes up with a better reason for the hard-start, I'll be replacing it today.

 

if the IAC is filled with crud or stuck and cant move it will also cause the driveability problems you describe. I had the same ones

-hard to start
-stalls often right after startup
-idles fine after warmup.

I think when you sprayed wd40 into the intake you might have lubricated the IAC thereby alowing it briefly to adjust to the operating conditions present at startup.
then when you run it for awhile the Iac opens more to maintain idle when the motor gets warm but when you turn it off the IAC is so dirty it gets stuck there.

next startup your IAC is stuck wide open resuling in a hard start condition.

trust me try to clean that thing first before you go messing with the cold start equipment.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to try the IAC passage cleaning first thing tomorrow. I'll let you know if it works (later this week).

Jon

 

If you have dirt, your IAC may not be positioning itself correctly for the "cranking" phase. Once running, the IAC will adjust itself further. So yes, the IAC may be the culprit.

But, the Cold Start Injector may also be the problem as you are saying. One solution is to convert to the 89 MAF type setup which relegates the Cold Start Injector to the trash heap.

A LOT of MAF guys are converting to the 89 Type System just because of the that. The 89 BIN is much better code too. The common BIN is to use the ARAP BIN on the conversion.

Scope out the DIY PROM Burning Board and search for the keyword on "ARAP". There is a wealth of information on it.

If I had MAF, I would go that route.