305IrocZ28

Are there any sorts of "adjustments" that can be made (without the purchasing of anything more than a tool or two) to the 305 TPI for extra power?

And another question which nobody answered from before- Would bypassing the whole airbox intake setup on the tpi engine with a cone filter attached to the throttle body give me any added power?


------------------
305IrocZ28- Al
1990 Iroc-z 305 TPI auto, Flowmaster exhaust, 2 Rockford 10'' Punch woofers w/ 160a2 amp, 2.73 rear (1650 rpms @ 60mph)

Guido

Check the tech articles section off the main page. There are some good ideas in there.

Im also moving this to the TPI lounge. You should be able to get more ideas there then in here.



------------------
-86 IROC
11.31 @ 120.2 mph
-=ICON Motorsports=-

AlexJH

Most people say that directly mounting the filter won't produce any gains because you'll be taking in hot air from the engine bay.

And if you search the archives for 'porting plenum', there should be some good info there.

Grim Reaper

If you consider that you MUST have "tools" to do ANY modification and that they are an "investment", then I would say the MOST EFFECTIVE free mod is doing your own eprom.

Do people consider the cost of a socket set, wrenches or screwdrivers as the cost of a modification? No, because you can reuse them. I consider the same logic with getting all the equipment to burn an eprom. Once you get it, you can reuse it over and over again; all in the quest to "pefect" your eprom.

Most of the "free mods" are "mechanical tricks" on the ecm (relocating the MAT, TB Bypass, etc)...but those mods have their own problems and generally require you to modify the eprom to get the max benefit. In fact, not modifying the eprom generally trades one set of problems for another.

Lastly, the money you can save in gasoline by invoking "highway mode" actually will pay for itself in a year or two, depending how much you drive.

IMO, learning how to burn your own eprom should be your FIRST mod. It really is the only "free mod" that can really effect performance of a stock engine that you can notice.

Grim Reaper

Especially, on an SD car, such as yours.

88IROCs

And now with a rebuttal:

The same socket I use to remove plugs from my L98's, will remove plugs from my 1/2-ton, and will even remove plugs from that sweet '87 Monte I've got my eyes on. Same goes for the flat-headed screwdriver I use to remove hose clamps and, the hex-drivers I use to remove access panels. The sockets and screwdrivers also came in very handy for assembling my new computer desk. And when things don't quite fit the way I expect them to, nothing beats my favourite hammer(remember kids, always use the right tool for the right job ).

On the other hand,...
the Diacom cable will only work with the L98's. Ditto for the Tunercat software. If I want to start re-promming the truck, I'll need another cable and another version of the software. Same thing if I decide I can't bear the thought of someone else owning that Monte.

And I have it on good advice that my laptop will be, at best, only marginally effective at removing panels and assembling furniture.

Live without my Craftsman's, Snap-On's, Mac's, etc.,...? Impossible.

Go without the prom gear? Yes, it just wouldn't be quite as much fun!

------------------
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world.
The unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself.
Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man"
--George Bernard Shaw.

Grim Reaper

Actually, Diacom works on ANY GM from 1982 (first ECMS) to 1995s...and if you have a later car, there is an upgrade available. In fact, there is an upgrade if you also want to use it on Chryslers. But for all the cars you mentioned, Diacom will work fine.

As for Tunercat (if you chose that route), you only need to buy a different TDF ($20) for different engines or models. BUT, if you get the TDF Editor, you can make your own and not have to spend another red cent.

So, if I want to use my "eprom burning stuff" on a different model/engine (and sometimes there are no differences) GM car from 1982 - 1995, it will cost me $20, if I don't want to write my own with TDF Editor.

AND, this is ONLY if you are going this route. There are "free" scanner software and BIN Editors avaiable too. They are just a little harder to use, but if you are into "free stuff", it's available.

[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited August 06, 2001).]

afgun

I have to agree; I use winbin and Moates' software. I also have Diacom. Moates' works just as well and is OODLES cheaper to boot! *G*

Grim Reaper

Actually, when I've scoped out some of the "comma delimited" files created by Craig's software, I thought Craig's software offered more information...plus you have access to the source code, so you can make it do things (like find free RAM bytes in the ECM) that you cannot do with Diacom.

Craig's software is great for MAF cars, but Craig needs more SD users so he can get some feed back and find any "bugs" that may exist. I have been debating about using Craig's software, but I have just too many "projects" at this time.

irocz

I would suggest removingn the rain flaps from under the air filters. You can also cut the bottom of the airbox completely and spend a few bucks on some dryer ducting to make a ram air setup. Just be careful about running through any deep water!

You can also try advancing the timing a LITTLE at a time. You can do a homemade afpr, and if you can spring for the gaskets and get ahold of a dremel porting the plenum will help you out.

88IROCs

Hmmm,... I was told by the seller of my Diacom gear that the cable would only work with a MAF TPI ecm. I haven't bothered to try it on the truck(1992 305 TBI) for that reason. Maybe I should?

As for mounting a cone filter directly in front of the TB,... I would think that this would be very restrictive on airflow as the air must turn a sharp corner directly in fron of the TB. This would not allow the airflow any room to build velocity before entering the plenum. I am working on a way to mount the square filters lower in the airbox, because I believe they are actually too close to the lid. At the same time I am working on redesigning/relocating the baffles and connecting the whole affair to the foglight openings. In my opinion the whole intake arrangement could be improved upon, without compromising in the areas of noise or water-rejection.

I just bought a cheap digital camera to help me record where things are supposed to go before I take them apart(age seems to be taking a toll on my memory). But if I find a way to improve the airbox, that is cheap, reliable and makes a noticeable difference, I'll post the info here.

Grim Reaper

88, you are suppose to get 3 cable ends that plug into your ALDL with your Diacom. One cable for very early computerized cars, the second is specifically for MAF TPI and the last one is for everything else.

If you do not have all three cables, then you should contact Diacom and get the proper cable ends. I had a problem with my "standard" cable end (the one to use with TPI SD) and Diacom sent me a new one, free of charge.

88IROCs

I bought the Diacom used, so it's my fault for not making sure I got the complete package. As it is, I have just the MAF end. If I decide to start playing with the truck's PROM, I'll see about buying the rest of the ends.

Vader

Obviously, you don't have a Toshiba laptop. I've found that if swung in the correct arc and with sufficient force, they can start wood screws and drive nails very nicely. That HAVE to be good for something...

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

Grim Reaper

I would still contact Rinda and explain it to them. Got nothing to lose, and you may get pleasantly surprised.