02 sensor swapping to a heated one
02 sensor swapping to a heated one
I want to swap to a heated 02.I have a 91 z28.It just has the single wire.But all the heated one have 3 to 4 wire.From what I understand thers is a ,ground,power,and then the actaul 02 wire.but the plug also has a 3 or 4 prong on it.How do I go about hooking this up since my 02 only has a one prong plug.And if any has a part# for a heated one for this model the might help.check sig. for info.Thanks
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1991 1LE Z28 355cu 5SPD (ORIGINALLY 305 BEST E.T. 14.186@99.86mph)NO PASSES ON 355 YET.MINI RAM INTAKE,AFR 190 HEADS,10.23:1cr 24# SVO INJECTORS,BBK 52mmTB,AFPR
FULL ROLLER MOTOR,1.6 rockers MSD 6AL
AUTOMETER A/F GAGUE MARCH PULLEYS,HEDDMEN HEADERS 3IN EXH NO CATS FLOWMASTER,POWER TRAX NO-SLIP LOCKER,3:42 GEARS,LAKEWOOD LOWER CONTROL ARMS HOTCHIKS STRUTTOWER BRACE,COMPETTION ENG.SUBFRAME CONNECTORS
MALLORY TACH W/SHIFT LITE
BLACK, TINTED WINDOWS, TAIL LIGHT COVERS BIG BLOCK COWL INDUCTION HOOD,SHAVED DOOR HANDLES
67RS 327cu 92K ORIG MILES.NEWER GM HEADS HEADERS,650 HOLLEY CARB,CAM, 350 TURBO TRANS W/SHIFT KIT&COOLER 12 BOLT POSI 3.73'S MUTLILEAF SPRINGS
NEW VINYLROOF&CARPET, COWL HOOD,HIDE AWAY HEAD LITES,
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1991 1LE Z28 355cu 5SPD (ORIGINALLY 305 BEST E.T. 14.186@99.86mph)NO PASSES ON 355 YET.MINI RAM INTAKE,AFR 190 HEADS,10.23:1cr 24# SVO INJECTORS,BBK 52mmTB,AFPR
FULL ROLLER MOTOR,1.6 rockers MSD 6AL
AUTOMETER A/F GAGUE MARCH PULLEYS,HEDDMEN HEADERS 3IN EXH NO CATS FLOWMASTER,POWER TRAX NO-SLIP LOCKER,3:42 GEARS,LAKEWOOD LOWER CONTROL ARMS HOTCHIKS STRUTTOWER BRACE,COMPETTION ENG.SUBFRAME CONNECTORS
MALLORY TACH W/SHIFT LITE
BLACK, TINTED WINDOWS, TAIL LIGHT COVERS BIG BLOCK COWL INDUCTION HOOD,SHAVED DOOR HANDLES
67RS 327cu 92K ORIG MILES.NEWER GM HEADS HEADERS,650 HOLLEY CARB,CAM, 350 TURBO TRANS W/SHIFT KIT&COOLER 12 BOLT POSI 3.73'S MUTLILEAF SPRINGS
NEW VINYLROOF&CARPET, COWL HOOD,HIDE AWAY HEAD LITES,
i was wondering the samething. the three wire is heated so in colder climates or with headers the car will go in to close loop
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91 Z28 slp headers adj reg accell cap rotor coil comp cam roller
random tech cats flowmaster catback
new motor in
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91 Z28 slp headers adj reg accell cap rotor coil comp cam roller
random tech cats flowmaster catback
new motor in
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 0
From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
test
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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9
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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 0
From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
I just installed a heated 02 sensor on my 86 Vette last night and I tried posting a msg on how I did it, but the forum crash my long message.
Short version is to connect the black wire to the wire leading to your ecm, one white wire goes to ground and the other white wire goes to a switched 12 volt source.
Email me if you need the step by step.
Jake
------------------
1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9
Short version is to connect the black wire to the wire leading to your ecm, one white wire goes to ground and the other white wire goes to a switched 12 volt source.
Email me if you need the step by step.
Jake
------------------
1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 0
From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
I'll try the long version again.
After installing long tube headers, my engine would drop out of closed loop at idle because the sensor was cooling off below the required 600 degree F which is needed to maintain closed loop mode.
I bought a Bosch 3 wire heated sensor. Two white wires and one black.
The black goes to the original 02 sensor wire that leads to the ECM.
The sensor comes with a square connector (just like the one on the IAC motor on the TB) but I couldn't find a mating connector at AutoZone; I just cut off that connector. I bought a 3 wire weatherproof connector with pigtails (long wires) on each end of the connectors and used that instead.
I had an old 02 sensor laying around, so I just cut off the connector from it and soldered it onto the heated sensor's black wire. Now I merely plugged in the 02 sensor just as before.
Since I bought a 3 wire connector and now I didn't need the 3rd wire, I just cut it out, leaving two wires. One for switched 12 volt and the other for ground.
I chose a location that was near the 02 sensor for my ground and used my 12 volt test light to identify a good ground source. I used a wire wheel chucked in my electric drill to clean the ground location, then soldered on a "O" wire connector and screwed it to my ground location.
I then located a switched 12 volt source that wasn't too far from the 02 sensor location. I tried several locations and settled on one of the wires that leads to the wiper motor. Using a razor blade I sliced away about 3/4" on insulation from that wire, wrapped the other white (sensor)wire around the exposed wiring and soldered it in place. I then wrapped it in electrical tape, sliced a piece of 5/16" rubber hose and slid it over the soldered location for insulation. I then covered to whole she-bang with a piece of that corrugated plastic wire covering you see running all over your engine compartment.
I used cable ties to hold everything in place and away from heat sources and made sure that no wire was pulled too tightly.
Fired the engine and, using Diacom, watched as the engine remained in closed loop at idle.
All in all it was pretty easy.
Hope this helps. And I hope this one goes through because I'd sure hate to have to type this a third time.
Jake
------------------
1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9
[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited August 14, 2001).]
After installing long tube headers, my engine would drop out of closed loop at idle because the sensor was cooling off below the required 600 degree F which is needed to maintain closed loop mode.
I bought a Bosch 3 wire heated sensor. Two white wires and one black.
The black goes to the original 02 sensor wire that leads to the ECM.
The sensor comes with a square connector (just like the one on the IAC motor on the TB) but I couldn't find a mating connector at AutoZone; I just cut off that connector. I bought a 3 wire weatherproof connector with pigtails (long wires) on each end of the connectors and used that instead.
I had an old 02 sensor laying around, so I just cut off the connector from it and soldered it onto the heated sensor's black wire. Now I merely plugged in the 02 sensor just as before.
Since I bought a 3 wire connector and now I didn't need the 3rd wire, I just cut it out, leaving two wires. One for switched 12 volt and the other for ground.
I chose a location that was near the 02 sensor for my ground and used my 12 volt test light to identify a good ground source. I used a wire wheel chucked in my electric drill to clean the ground location, then soldered on a "O" wire connector and screwed it to my ground location.
I then located a switched 12 volt source that wasn't too far from the 02 sensor location. I tried several locations and settled on one of the wires that leads to the wiper motor. Using a razor blade I sliced away about 3/4" on insulation from that wire, wrapped the other white (sensor)wire around the exposed wiring and soldered it in place. I then wrapped it in electrical tape, sliced a piece of 5/16" rubber hose and slid it over the soldered location for insulation. I then covered to whole she-bang with a piece of that corrugated plastic wire covering you see running all over your engine compartment.
I used cable ties to hold everything in place and away from heat sources and made sure that no wire was pulled too tightly.
Fired the engine and, using Diacom, watched as the engine remained in closed loop at idle.
All in all it was pretty easy.
Hope this helps. And I hope this one goes through because I'd sure hate to have to type this a third time.
Jake
------------------
1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9
[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited August 14, 2001).]
[QUOTE]Originally posted by JakeJr:
I'll try the long version again.
After installing long tube headers, my engine would drop out of closed loop at idle because the sensor was cooling off below the required 600 degree F which is needed to maintain closed loop mode.
I bought a Bosch 3 wire heated sensor. Two white wires and one black.
The black goes to the original 02 sensor wire that leads to the ECM.
The sensor comes with a square connector (just like the one on the IAC motor on the TB) but I couldn't find a mating connector at AutoZone. So I bought a 3 wire weatherproof connector with pigtails (long wires) on each end of the connectors and used that.
I had an old 02 sensor laying around, so I just cut off the connector from it and soldered it onto the heated sensor's black wire. Now I merely plugged in the 02 sensor just as before. Since I didn't need the 3rd wire on the connectors I bought, I just cut it out.
I chose a location that was near the 02 sensor for my ground using my 12 volt test light to identify a good ground source. I used a wire wheel chucked in my electric drill to clean the ground location, then soldered on a "O" wire connector and screwed it to my ground location.
I then located a switched 12 volt source that wasn't too far from the 02 sensor location. I tried several locations and settled on one of the wires that leads to the wiper motor. Using a razor blade I slices away about 3/4" on insulation from that wire, wrapped the other white wire around the exposed wiring and soldered it in place. I then wrapped it in electrical tape, sliced a piece of 5/16" rubber hose and slide it over the soldered location. I covered to whole she-bang with a piece of that corrugated plastic wire covering you see running all over your engine compartment.
I used cable ties to hold everything in place and away from heat sources and made sure that no wire was pulled too tightly.
Fired the engine and, using Diacom, watched as the engine remained in closed loop at idle.
All in all it was pretty easy.
Hope this helps. And I hope this one goes through because I'd sure hate to have to type this a third time.
Jake
[/QUote
Seems you put a bit of time into that post.Thanks.I will reread it a few times then if I still have A questions I will drop you an e-mail
I'll try the long version again.
After installing long tube headers, my engine would drop out of closed loop at idle because the sensor was cooling off below the required 600 degree F which is needed to maintain closed loop mode.
I bought a Bosch 3 wire heated sensor. Two white wires and one black.
The black goes to the original 02 sensor wire that leads to the ECM.
The sensor comes with a square connector (just like the one on the IAC motor on the TB) but I couldn't find a mating connector at AutoZone. So I bought a 3 wire weatherproof connector with pigtails (long wires) on each end of the connectors and used that.
I had an old 02 sensor laying around, so I just cut off the connector from it and soldered it onto the heated sensor's black wire. Now I merely plugged in the 02 sensor just as before. Since I didn't need the 3rd wire on the connectors I bought, I just cut it out.
I chose a location that was near the 02 sensor for my ground using my 12 volt test light to identify a good ground source. I used a wire wheel chucked in my electric drill to clean the ground location, then soldered on a "O" wire connector and screwed it to my ground location.
I then located a switched 12 volt source that wasn't too far from the 02 sensor location. I tried several locations and settled on one of the wires that leads to the wiper motor. Using a razor blade I slices away about 3/4" on insulation from that wire, wrapped the other white wire around the exposed wiring and soldered it in place. I then wrapped it in electrical tape, sliced a piece of 5/16" rubber hose and slide it over the soldered location. I covered to whole she-bang with a piece of that corrugated plastic wire covering you see running all over your engine compartment.
I used cable ties to hold everything in place and away from heat sources and made sure that no wire was pulled too tightly.
Fired the engine and, using Diacom, watched as the engine remained in closed loop at idle.
All in all it was pretty easy.
Hope this helps. And I hope this one goes through because I'd sure hate to have to type this a third time.
Jake
[/QUote
Seems you put a bit of time into that post.Thanks.I will reread it a few times then if I still have A questions I will drop you an e-mail
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