I am wanting to know if anyone knows why my car is getting harder to start and why it cuts out.If i just go crank it up it'll die right out i can drive off if i have my foot on the gas a lil bit before shifting but when i come to a stop sign i have to switch to nuetral and put my foot on the gas a lil bit.
My car has just over 100,000 miles on it, a broken ypipe where the pipe meets the cat, new cap/rotor, bosch+2's plugs, accel plug wires, pcv valve, with no emissions hooked or or installed. Any Ideas as to whats my problem?
I was reading in one of my books and it states that with the broken ypipe my exhaust is letting in oxygen fooling the 02 sensor the richen my fuel settings
( I do have a replacement ypipe and headers that need to be installed for that though. Could that possible fix my trobules?
Car is getting embarrassing to drive, i mean its cuttin out at lights, i cant backup out of a parking spot w/o it dying, you know.

 

there are a number of things that can cause your problem.
does the check engine light work?
other than when starting the motor or when it dies, does the light come on when driving?
are there any stored codes?
do you have a way to scan the data?
does it have any other run problems?
MAF systems hate any air leaks after the MAF sensor, even a small vacuum line can have a big effect. is the air intake system in good condition, no tears in the boots or
missing clamps? the MAF sensor could have problems.
the IAC could be going bad or the throttle plates could be dirty.
i'm not a fan of bosch plugs, i've seem them cause run problems.

 

no vacumn leaks, i cant check stored codes,no other problems after it warms up new IAC, throttle plates are dirty though, how do i clean them, should i get a fuel system cleaning like at jiffy lube?I'm going to ditch the bosch's just as soon as i can,kinda broke right now so money is tight cause i just bought some eldelbrock headers and ypipe, and no check engine light doesnt work, EGR looks to be blocked off though, i didnt do it car was like that when i bought it along with most of the freemods like modified air housing and descreened maf

 

i tend to recommend to stay away from places like jiffy lube for things emissions or driveability problems, i just don't think they can keep good people around that know
how to do that kind of work.
you can clean the throttle plates yourself, it isn't hard.
to clean the T-plates, some carb cleaner & a shop towel will work just fine.
an old tooth brush works good in the hard to get to places.
with the air boot off lock the throttle plates open & spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body & rub the shop towel around the inside. it doesn't take a lot of carb cleaner. don't get the environmentally friendly stuff, it doesn't work very good.
don't forget to clean the back side of the blades too.
if the T-plates happen to close on your finger, don't yank your finger out without opening the plates back up, it will hurt, LOL
after you have cleaned the T-plates, you'll need to adjust the minimum air & maybe the TPS,
https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2
using the paper clip in the ALDL is how you pull the codes too.
for a view of the ALDL,
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ggestions.html

a can of fuel treatment wouldn't hurt, there is some stuff called BG 44K, it works great for intake valve deposits & it also helps with injector deposits. you won't find it at a parts house, only at a repair shop.
http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php

 

i used to work at jiffy lube and you are right, but their fuel system cleaner process is pretty simple not that technical